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cglenn7777
Community Beginner
cglenn7777
Community Beginner
Activity
‎May 07, 2025
04:55 PM
Auto install failed. I clicked on install now, and it worked, maybe because I had to enter my mac system password to enable update? But then, it did not remember my most basic setting, which is to open with editor and not that 'what would you like to do today' screen. I can't find the setting like I did before to open with the editor. Where is it please? It's not under Settings.
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‎May 07, 2025
12:02 PM
1 Upvote
I just changed the setting to update automatically. The update screen never appeared. So problem solved.
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‎May 07, 2025
12:00 PM
Purchased from Adobe. Under help>system info: Adobe Photoshop Elements Version: 25.0 (20240913.PSE.1582f9f2) arm64 Whether there is an update or not, when I open, it says yes, but there is no app associated to updating.
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‎May 07, 2025
09:45 AM
I need to add, I could not quite PE. When I try, I get the "There is no application set to open...." I had to force quit to get out!
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‎May 07, 2025
09:39 AM
First I searched, only to find most recent on this topic was 2020, so I must ask here. I recently upgraded to the 2025 edition, and it said I had an update. But when I click on install now, I get "There is no application set to open the URL auphd://update? sapCode=PSE&baseVersion=25.0&platform=osx10-64&skipUpdateInfo=true." I use Firefox, but under choose application that was greyed out. After enabling show all apps, I chose Firefox, but only two search results, from 2020 and 2023, and no update option. So I chose connect to app store, the result being "Cannot Connect to App Store". I don't understand why (1) I have to log into Adobe every time I oppen PE2025, and (2) why it can't update application from within the PE app, like almost every program I have used. How do I install the upgrade? And can I not log into Adobe just to use PE? It was a one time purchase, not a subscription, so I don't think Adobe needs to know when I use the program.
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‎Sep 30, 2019
08:49 AM
I think I have a different definition of 'adjust' than does Adobe, but thank you for the reply.
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‎Sep 27, 2019
10:31 AM
Under Enhance>Adjust Smart Fix, there is one adjustment labeled Fix Amount. I click on 'learn more about adjust smart fix, and there are zero words about what adjusting Fix Amount means. I am trying to do this: About 80% of the time when Smart Fix adjusts to increase brightness, I need to go back in an reduce the amount 5-10%. I wanted to adjust smart fix so that, when it added brightness, it would add a little less than its default. So not only was I unable to actually adjust smart fix, I'm left with an additional question related to what fix amount does. I was expecting at least two sliders, color and brightness, which would globally (e.g., a program preference) re-adjust to my personal preferences of "not quite as bright as your default, please." [Unnecessary extra words] This is because, when viewed on my 27" Imac, the image is a little less bright than the settings on my 65" Samsung TV, which is my primary picture viewer.
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‎Aug 15, 2018
04:54 PM
So the Lasso Tool in this instance is basically a part of a cloning process?
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‎Aug 15, 2018
01:27 PM
I thought it was called lens flair, but google lead me to other things. Searching under 'lens reflection' did not work either. The spot healing brush w/ content aware did not work (it replaced some of the sky with some of the eye). Burn tool still left a lot behind regardless of settings, and with clone tool, I could not find a large enough area of sky to clone just the sky part, but regardless of this, there is no appropriate (or practical) clone area for the giraffe. I can see (almost) all the information under the 'reflection,' so shouldn't I be able to just remove it? The original was a B&W negative. P.S. I used to be notified of replies, but I can't find where to set this now. I can't find it under preferences or at the bottom of this page. Where did that setting go?
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‎Aug 13, 2018
02:55 PM
Thank you Michel. I like both, but i took your Expert advice with the history palette, and with being able to fast switch between the two, I think I prefer that. PS I'm still amazed at what a good photo editor can do. I had one image with my darn thumb in the way, and the spot healing w/ content aware took it away, and I can't tell where the software took pixels from to replace the thumb.
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‎Aug 13, 2018
11:21 AM
I'm not using the organizer (unless it's the only way). As I begin the long process of editing, I would like to see my original image right next to the edited image, side by side. Can I do this in PE 2018? Of course help was no help at all, and a Google search led me only to how to do this in the organizer.
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‎Aug 10, 2018
11:13 AM
Tnanks, jon. The clone stamp tool is cool too. I had fun playing with it. I think the burn tool worked a little better for my eyes for the light bar removal. Also, it has some use for the lines, except the background shade keeps changing so I have to re-clone frequently. If others read this, also I had to change 'normal' to 'darken' in the options for the light bar. Also, on my Logitech third-party keyboard (for Mac), it's the Option key that creates the clone. This is a great user group. Thanks for the help.
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‎Aug 10, 2018
10:49 AM
Thanks Mark, that burn tool is a sweet tool indeed. I remember the frustrating hours I spent in the darkroom back in '75 burning and dodging. Ain't digital wonderful?
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‎Aug 10, 2018
10:31 AM
I was finally able to get your good instructions to work for your first option, but I did not like the result. After pasting, for example the boldest of the lines (the one running thru the hill), there was a 'double hill' where the paste was. While this would work on a slate-blank sky, any coping from elsewhere really does not work for me. I think I need the type of edit that the spot healing brush provides. Unless there are other tools that use this approach, I'll have to get better at spot healing. I'll hold off on third party software until perhaps another suggestion is posted.
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‎Aug 10, 2018
09:17 AM
Where is the burn tool? I've googled, but all 2018 specific say how to use, one added 'it's on the toolbar,' but not on mine. Enter burn in help...no hits!
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‎Aug 09, 2018
07:23 PM
Being new to photo editing in general, I'm not sure which tools I should learn about for two specific issues on my own. I've grown a little familiar with the spot healing brush tool to remove black specs and similar things. The images below are greatly reduced in quality but show the problems. I don't want anyone to actually work on these low file size images, but I really would like to know which tool(s) would be best for me to learn about for these issues. Please note that I have some hand disability, specifically poor coordination, so 'free hand' work is more difficult than setting a tool and just clicking. This first I have only this one, and there is a bar of light about one third of the way from the bottom, I think a developing problem. The second is more of a concern. I have a set of about 50 B&W images that were taken in 1975, near the end of life of my old college Olympic brand camera. These images have parallel black lines going in the direction of the (manual) film feed. I tried using the spot healing brush tool, and it did work okay, but it seemed to leave a line of softer focus where used. But because of my hand issues, I had to set the size a little large so when I swept along the line, I stayed on the line.
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‎Jul 04, 2018
05:20 PM
Yes, I found that out. I don't have much faith in chat people when it comes to this sort of question, so I'll call tomorrow. It's easier to get escalated on the phone than in chat.
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‎Jul 04, 2018
08:59 AM
Well, I'm about a third of the way through my color slides (plus too many B&W negatives to count), so I'm stuck with what I've got. They look great on the 65" TV. In fact, even on my 27" iMac I can't always tell if the focus is right on. It has to pass the big screen test before inclusion in the final collection. I think I'll just ignore the issue then. Maybe I'll email Adobe with the question of why the same image reads 4800 DPI in PE but 300 in my image viewer.
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‎Jul 04, 2018
07:56 AM
Hi again! When I was searching for scanners for this project, I did not know of the Wolverine or anything specifically dedicated to such purposes. I did not know to not limit my search to flatbed scanners. I'm doing two things, One is to be able to view my slides on a large TV. While I currently have a 65" TV, in the not too distant future, I expect to have a much larger one for a dedicated home entertainment center. Second, I may want to print a few of my best into a size larger than 8x10, with the size perhaps being limited by the image quality. I'm entirely self taught, and what I read said to make the scan size the same as the original, and the more DPI the better (which is what Epson labels it...there is no PPI setting I can find). I chose 4800 as a compromise. It takes 1:30 to scan one slide in at this resolution.
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‎Jul 03, 2018
03:11 PM
1 Upvote
I have been scanning my college days (circa 1972-1980) 35mm color slides into the computer. In the (Epson V550) software, I set the depth to 24bit and the DPI to 4800, in case I want to blow any printed up to poster size, and I set the image dimensions to 1.28 x .86 (which is the actual measure of the photo portion of the slide. After editing and saving an image in Camera Raw, I open the images in my preferred viewer (Lyn for Mac), and it lists the DPI of the PE edited image as 300. The image resolution remains the same (4060 x 6113 pixels). But when I view the numbers inside of PE, it lists the resolution of my edited and 'saved as...' file at 4800 DPI and the size is very close to the original: 1.274 x .846. Also, I see in Finder the file has greatly increased in size (3.9 to 6.6 meg). Clearly confused here! And then there is the depth. I don't fully understand it, but from my audio experience, I thought depth dealt with quality, so that 24bit had more information and thus larger file size, but here, dropping from 24 to 16 added over 2 meg to the file size. Most important to me is the DPI, and I have no idea why it would read 4800 inside of the PE image>adjust size but only 300 in a photo viewer. I don't know why PE does not support 24 bit. And I don't understand why reducing the DPI and bit would result in a significant increase in file size.
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‎Jul 03, 2018
02:17 PM
Very helpful, thank you. The leaves are a little blurred because I missed the focus. The trunk is in focus, but not the leaves. I chose this one to post because it had clear green and brown-trunk colors, the primary colors of all these shots. I could not see the focus issue until the colors were half corrected. I'm noting the adjustments you made, so I can try on other images. It looks like each one will be a little different from each other, but all should need similar adjustments. I did find that white balance Auto on my own, based on what you said about photoshop. Great education, thanks again.
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‎Jul 02, 2018
12:07 PM
[third attempt...this interface is having problems!!!] These are all landscapes, and only 125 of them, so purchasing Photoshop is not an option. How do I in Elements, as you did in Photoshop, "add blue"? Help says Enhance>adjust lighting>levels, but that does not control just one R, G or B. I was looking for a three-slider tool, one each for RGB. The Camera Raw editor shows the RGB graph, with the letters RGB below with dashes, but I am not allowed to adjust those.
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‎Jun 29, 2018
07:21 PM
Yes, I have it now. Also, I had to 'select all' then one adjustment applied to the other open files. THANKS!
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‎Jun 29, 2018
05:09 PM
I don't have open as. I have file> new, open, open in camera raw, and open recently edited file. This is the new V16.
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‎Jun 29, 2018
11:30 AM
Using V16.0. New user! I want to batch process a set of Camera Raw jpg files. All the google hits apply to older versions from 2010, and don't say Camera Raw. I want to open these files as Camera Raw, then edit, then save. Only in Expert mode, I can File>Process Multiple Files. But I select the files, and it does [whatever, I have no idea], then saves them. There was no dialog box to adjust tint, temperature, clarity, etc. Also, how do I know this method opens the Camera Raw and not whatever the default is if you just open (I don't understand the difference if it is a jpg file to begin with...is there a difference? I was told to use the Camera Raw method in another thread in this forum).
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‎Jun 28, 2018
08:33 PM
Wow, Mr. Paris, your work is fantastic. I am now very hopeful at recovering this subset of slides. If Elements can make it look so close to original colors, then I don't think I need Photoshop, fortunately . Of course, now I can see focus is not where I wanted it to be . Can you briefly list the changes you made, to help me focus on the right controls and help my learning curve?
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‎Jun 28, 2018
01:11 PM
I have a set of about 125 35mm slides (nature shots) that I took in 1980. The film for these slides was left-over reel ends from Hollywood pictures (film and development by RGB Labs in Hollywood, CA). They have all turned VERY pink. I have been told that 2 of the 3 dyes have lost it, but I have also been told the colors might be there enough to adjust. I had an 'unknown quality' professional who took 5 minutes on one of them using Photoshop (the full version), but the result was not as good as I tried, using my Mac's Preview software. Will PE give me more control over tint correction, that is, restoration of the two lost dye colors, than would Preview? Does PE do batch mode adjustments? It is possible all the slides need the exact same correction, or at least start off with this correction and minor adjust the few that are still not okay? Does it matter that when I read about how to fix this issue, I don't understand must of that is said? Does PE have one of those automatic thingies that do tint? I see there is a color adjuster, but the words next to it only reference saturation and such, not actually adjusting colors, and no mention of tint. I have attached a slimmed down example (original 3.6 meg, this one 786KB ). [I wish I could have asked this of Adobe sales, as that seems most appropriate! But all links send me to the forums.]
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‎Jul 15, 2014
09:09 AM
I installed V2.0 successfully, and it opened as expected. I'm not sure why the specs for V3.0 say Mac OS 10.6 is okay...it was not okay on my system. Thanks Michael, problem solved!
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‎Jul 14, 2014
02:02 PM
Actually, when I went to uninstall it, it appears it was never loaded into my system. I assumed that was because I have 10.6. I'll try an earlier edition per your suggestion.
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‎Jul 14, 2014
10:26 AM
I can't see how to delete this post, so PLEASE IGNORE. After I unloaded the ADE 3.0, it *then* created useable icons. But I'm screwed as I have V10.6. Why does this not work until one has 10.7?!?
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