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Silk Screen and Halftone dots

Explorer ,
Apr 09, 2009 Apr 09, 2009

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What is the short answer to, "Can Illustrator allow the user to control the size of halftone dots?" Just to be clear, for silk screen, the dots must be course. I have read several posts on the subject and still there is no definitive answer. The PPD file has been loaded. The document is a CMYK. In the print menu the separation menu has only very fine settings available (The lowest is 56 lpi/300dpi) which if selected makes very little to no difference in the dot patterns.


     Just to reduce confusion, often a silk screen printer will try to get two colors for the price of one. The simplest example would be to get Black & Gray with one screen. If I set the Gray to 50% and the Black to 100%, still no change. If I use spot colors like PMS Cool Gray and Black, no change. Moving the files into Photoshop may work but fundamentally speaking PhotoShop in my opinion is for constant tone images or Photos, and it seems counter productive to add in a extra step (and software) to the work flow.


     I like to stick to the old K.I.S.S. motto. Keep It Simple Stupid. In this case less is better. Other software packages make this task a no brainer. I like Illustrator and have invested hundreds of hours learning and promoting it's virtues. When I was asked by a local shop how to do this task, I responded, (Oh I'm sure its just a setting that needs to be set.) Well, not so. So, Can I do this or do I need to tell my associate to keep using CorelDraw! 7...

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correct answers 1 Correct answer

Engaged , Apr 09, 2009 Apr 09, 2009

Hello Mojorocker1964,

Adobe Illustrator gives the freedom to output the artwork at any LPI or DPI you wish (The Typical LPI for offset printing ranges from 85-133 lines per inch)

The output of the image is control by the imagesetter (the machine that makes the negatives) and not by Illustrator , CorelDraw, Freehand, Xara Xtreme, etc. With native Adobe Illustrator artwork (meaning no image placing) you do not have to worry about LPI, DPI (Dots Per Inch) or resolution.

Be aware that when you print th

...

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Engaged ,
Aug 12, 2009 Aug 12, 2009

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What a huge topic!

Yes, this has been a good discussion, both before I leaped in and after.  I love learning!

Perhaps if I talk to the right person at the replication shop (whoever actually does the setup for printing the silkscreen disk labels) I might discover that he has a printer driver (and therefore a print dialogue) that has all the needed options to do the screen the way that works best for his equipment - if so, then I'm happy to leave it alone and let him do his thing.  But since the physical replication of the DVDs isn't even done in Japan (the factory is in Taiwan, I think, because overhead is cheaper), the printing may be done there as well, so I might never meet the actual silkscreen guy.

My lack of Postscript printer isn't really related because I won't be printing anything myself - all I have to do is give the replicator my Illustrator file, as long as my text is outlined and my graphics not linked.  I was surprised that they don't even care if the objects in the different colors are separated by layer or not - I sort of assumed they would want me to give them a file with all the white on one layer, all the purple on another, and all the yellow on another, but the guy who talked to me said it doesn't matter to them (of course that was also the guy who wasn't sure if they could do halftone or not).  I'm getting more and more curious to ask them again, but this week is the second biggest holiday time of the year in Japan, so they are probably closed for a few days.

One other thing: you are going to loose the tone in the top 10-20% of your half tone and get dot gain in the bottom 10-20%. There is not a lot you can do about that other than push the levels in your art to allow for it. The amount of dot you gain/loose depends on squeegee sharpness and durometer, mesh count, emulsion thickness, machine pressure, fabric quality and if its printed on a friday arvo or monday morning - neither of the latter are good.

If I understand you correctly, you're saying that if the opacity setting for an area of color is low but not zero (10-20%), or high but not 100% (80-90%) then the size of the dots or holes ends up too small for the screen to do smoothly, right?  That makes a lot of sense.  Thanks for the advice - I'll avoid those levels, and I'm sure that others who read this thread will appreciate the tip as well.

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New Here ,
Aug 12, 2009 Aug 12, 2009

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We use InDesign to create our films.  We simply place your Illustrator file in an InDesign template, add crop marks and color names and send the file to our rip.  We have a standard set of instructions for our halftones.  Our dots are elliptical and each color is set to a certain angle so they don't interfere with one another.  After we have films we create the screens from those.

Our films are created at 100 lpi for solids and some spot color halftones and 133lpi for full color prints and some intricate spot color halftones.  I believe everything gets shot on screens using a 385 mesh.  We get great results and for this type of printing I wouldn't go any lower. 

As far as setting up the art.  I wouldn't go any lower than 20%.  Our halftones get very spotty around 15% and lower.  If you're printing on the silver of the disc keep in mind this is fairly distracting so I would make the halftone even darker.  A silver disc with a 25% purple halftone will just look silver with a purple hue.  Also keep in mind that any time you have a screen printed halftone you will be able to see the little dots that make up that halftone.

You also mentioned a custom white.  I would make very clear to your replicator which parts of the disc you want white.  I usually have artists assign a special color to the areas that need to print white and name that color "custom white ink" or something like that.  I also would name a background color "silver of the disc" just so there cannot be any confusion.  I'm pretty good at deciphering what people want but it's always nice to have extra instructions.

I hope this helps.  If you have any questions or would like me to look over your art please feel free to send it over.  I can't imagine a prepress department in Japan or Taiwan can be that much different than mine, right?  Maybe?  I also have our printing specs available in a pdf format if you would like those.

- an

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Advisor ,
Aug 12, 2009 Aug 12, 2009

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So, are you telling us the Screen Printer (replicator) is not providing some sort of Proof to show you what the your art files will look like when printed? Seems to me when I was doing screen printing I would request a color key (acetate with each color separation on each overlay) or other proof offered by the printer in question. You might want to ask this replicator what Proof options he offers, preferably an analog proof which will show the actual dot structure to be printed. Otherwise you're kinda' flying blind and left to the tender mercy of the replicator.

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New Here ,
Aug 12, 2009 Aug 12, 2009

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It's actually pretty difficult to show what a printed silver disc will look like on white paper.  We only offer pdf proofs, printed color proofs as well but no guarantee on color accuracy.  I would ask for samples though if they have those to offer. 

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Advisor ,
Aug 12, 2009 Aug 12, 2009

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I think the OP's main question was halftone dot. Well, it's not the OP, but the continued thread is concerned with dot. Do you provide a PDF which shows separations and dot? I am merely suggesting the non-OP in Japan, find out what the options are for proofs, and if the proof will satisfy the need to see the dot size, angle, and structure which will be printing on the disk. I understand you can't always show the substrate and how it effects the printing in a proof.

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New Here ,
Aug 12, 2009 Aug 12, 2009

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Oh absolutely.  I think at this point I would be nervous about what will be printing.  If they have some samples they should present them to show their dot structure and how they print on a silver disc.

We usually only provide a composite color pdf proofs.  I have found presenting clients with separations only confuses them.  Normally my clients are the purchasers rather than the artists themselves.  We also offer samples of what we have printed in the past and do offer check discs to see what the art will look like printed on the disc. 

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Advisor ,
Aug 12, 2009 Aug 12, 2009

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Well now, that sounds all to logical and reasonable.

Thanks vlaming01

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Engaged ,
Aug 13, 2009 Aug 13, 2009

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Wow, you guys have been having quite a conversation while I was sleeping!  I'll address a few comments here and there:

A silver disc with a 25% purple halftone will just look silver with a purple hue.

That's exactly the effect I'm after - I'm hoping it will look cool.

Also keep in mind that any time you have a screen printed halftone you will be able to see the little dots that make up that halftone.

Yes, I know.  As idea-starters I have been looking at CDs/DVDs that I own that have been silkscreened, and I decided to pursue a semi-transparent halftone because I like how it looked in someone else's design (in that case it was blue rather than purple, and I don't know what percentage coverage, but I'm trusting my imagination to take me the rest of the way).  That halftone was about 42 lpi, and I could even see how small text looked on it, so I would be happy with anything at least that fine or finer.  I also ran across a label whose whole background was a halftone gradient between completely tan and completely black, and all the "foreground" elements like text and logos were the clear silver - the halftone was only 25 lpi, no doubt to try to improve the quality of the dots in the low percentages.  Whoever designed it probably thought it was nice-looking, but I didn't - not only isn't the gradient very smooth, but although transparent text on the black or almost black areas were easily readable, to read the stuff that is in the mostly tan areas I had to tilt the disk to reflect more light.  Frankly, the only halftones I really like in the examples I have seen are ones with only one color - when they try to blend two inks by making the screen angles different, it doesn't look as clean to me.  Plus, I simply like the look of utilizing the silver - it's an effect unique to silkscreen on CD/DVD disks, not found in offset labels or silkscreen on other materials.

You also mentioned a custom white.

Not really a custom white - the replicator's literature about what is included with replication said "silkscreen in three colors (counting white) or offset" - actually at the moment I can't find where it said "counting white", so perhaps I can choose my own three colors, but whatever I read originally seemed to say that one of my three colors had to be white, so I was designing based on that assumption.

I'm using spot colors for everything in my Illustrator file, so it should be very clear to the replicator what objects should be what color.  I really wish the swatches in Illustrator would actually control the color of the instances that use them, like swatches and styles in InDesign work, but unfortunately when I experiment with changing the swatch to a different shade, I have to then select each object one at a time and tell it to use the swatch again - cumbersome.

I also would name a background color "silver of the disc" just so there cannot be any confusion.

Currently my background layer is simply transparent, and for my own visualization the next layer has an image of a shiny CD surface that I found on the internet - I turn that layer on when I want to see a fake idea of how the shiny silver will look with the rest of my design.  A link to a old copy of my Illustrator file is in post #19 of this thread, and here is a JPG of how it looks with the fake shiny background image (the content on my label has progressed since those files was made, but the color ideas are roughly the same).

So, are you telling us the Screen Printer (replicator) is not providing some sort of Proof to show you what the your art files will look like when printed?

I don't know - I didn't ask whether the prepress work is being done at their small facility here in town or in Taiwan.  I'm smarter now, so next time I talk to them I'll ask.

It's actually pretty difficult to show what a printed silver disc will look like on white paper.

I agree - that's why I put that image in my Illustrator file so that I could simulate the effect a little.  I know that proofs on paper will look different, and that even my simulation is not real, but I'm doing my best to imagine the end result, and I'm not all that picky as look as it looks nice and the text is readable.  One challenge is that my logo (whose real colors are totally different - see my PR page for both the logo and the jacket design with which I'm trying to coordinate) modified for use on the label has both white and purple in it, so the semi-transparent shade needs to be sufficiently distinguishable from both such that the logo shows up nicely.

Also, the song titles are currently white, but I'm flexible - they could be purple, silver (i.e. completely transparent), or cream - whatever would show up well.  I chose white because I noticed on other examples in my music collection that when text is a solid version of one of the colors involved in a halftone background (which in this case would apply to both purple and transparent silver), the dots touching the edges of the text made it look sloppy and a little hard to read.  For the logo it's unavoidable because I need multiple colors, but the song title text is only one color, so I thought white would be safest.

By the way, I also plan to make the DVD logo and other things I add on the left transparent, not white as you see the DVD logo now.  I'm waiting until the last minute to combine the paths with the purple area to make that happen, because after I do that, moving those items around or changing their size would be difficult or next to impossible.

I have found presenting clients with separations only confuses them.

I wouldn't be surprised.  But in my case I am the client and the artist, so I would fully understand separations.

We also offer samples of what we have printed in the past and do offer check discs to see what the art will look like printed on the disc.

My replicator offers a full-service check disk if I want to pay for it, including not just the label but the data as well (the first disk pressed from the glass master), but it costs $60, adds significantly to the turnaround time (it is made in Taiwan, of course), and the guy said that most clients don't opt for it unless they have a really big run (mine is only 1000 copies, so I'm in the very small category).

Thanks to both of you for all the great conversation!

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New Here ,
Jul 16, 2010 Jul 16, 2010

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quick illustrator tip!

LEARN TO USE AND RECORD ACTIONS! this will save you time on every job! You can separate colours, halftones and output in about 30 seconds flat.

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New Here ,
Apr 18, 2013 Apr 18, 2013

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I believe the KEY element to all of this is to FIND A PRINTER WHO IS NOT a money grubbing, "I'm going to make this PMS or whatnot into FIVE DIFFERENT colours instead of ONE using varying gradients..." I've found a wonderful printer who actually despite me working as a graphic designer in a medium sized print shop...schooled me WELL into DOT GAIN, etc inter alia...so, finding a printer who is willing to actually share with you is PARAMOUNT to foregoing all the BS that can occur if you happen to get printer who is a total wanker. Init? Aight. I'm out.

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New Here ,
Apr 18, 2013 Apr 18, 2013

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I don't think that printers are necessarily "money Grubbing" particularly. I would suggest probably, if anything they’ve become LAZY and DUMB. I strongly believe that since this topic was first raised in April 2009 (4 years ago) the whole printing and pre-press industry has been so dumbed down to the point where a true "craftsman" now days is hard to find. We’re all being forced to go with 'standard'. Many have surrendered to the whole 'push-button-buy-off-the-shelf/McDonalds' kind of mentality — there’s no skill any more.

To a large extent the demands made by the average customer have driven this phenomenon and a big part of that revolves around cost. Probably because so much of what we consume today is produced in China, much of which is utter CRAP I might add. So that's what the market has come to expect. People want everything yesterday and don’t want to give anything any real serious thought.... until suddenly there’s a problem.

I have a customer who complained that there was something wrong with their logo which I designed for them and supplied as a.jpg (that's what they wanted at the time — probably so they could use it in a Word document and print it off on their office inkjet). Problem was it printed out a different colour with every different printer they took it to – from business cards to large scale signage, etc, etc. all on different substrates using different inks. Of course they didn’t tell me that’s what they were going to do, but they rang me months later to complain about the problems they were having with their logo. None of the printers wanted to take responsibility or could explain what the problem was. Of course, it was all the designer's fault (me) because that’s what the printer told them. What a LAZY, DUMB answer! Just covering their butts no doubt. I explained how the problem was related to how each different print device is calibrated slightly differently, resulting in the variations in colour she was seeing. She didn't want to know about all that. In her opinion the whole printing industry should have more fool-proof systems that guarantee more consistent results. I advised her to make sure she always took a colour sample for them to match to, so they can adjust their equipment accordingly.

I find it inconceivable that a printer’s first response is that there’s something wrong with the artwork — they all worked from the same piece of artwork but with all different results! Printers aren’t skilled craftsmen like they used to be. They’re just copy machine operators with no real understanding. (This doesn’t apply to any SKILLED craftsmen reading this)

Sorry if I was ranting...

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New Here ,
Apr 19, 2013 Apr 19, 2013

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Hi! Dave, I was NOT at all lumping all printers together, just like

everything in life you get good and bad...honest and dishonest..and I

believe some (the one I've worked for for over 20 now, I KNOW for a fact

increases cost by about 700 percent write up....even with me, my wedding

invitations which I designed he screwed me LOLOL...anyway you're totally

right...and I thank you for your honesty, insight and good nature.

PEACE BRO

Randall

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New Here ,
Apr 19, 2013 Apr 19, 2013

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LATEST

Oh, and you're NOT ranting bro, you're telling it like it is and I could

NOT agree with you more..seriously...you're so right skill is secondary,

like mastering an instrument, now there are a bevy of DAW's, VSTI's

synthesizers for the computer, which I have a TON of, but I know music,

and there in lies the difference what I look at as a TOOL, many look at

as the be all end all..if that makes sense....so I UNDERSTAND what

you're saying and it's profound and very, very true....maybe it will set

us free? PEACE and HONEST GRAPHIC DESIGN..... BRO...

Randall

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