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where is control adjusting logarithmic gradient in latest raw converter 17.1 or prior ?

Contributor ,
Jan 18, 2025 Jan 18, 2025

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Hi,

Pshop 26.2 RAW converter 17.1.1
I have a photo taken within a helicopter, after applying dehaze which is an awesome, tool, the sky is now an atrocious cyan colour bleeding down across the farthest part of the landscape, I reach for the mask and gradient tool, drag it down to where the cyan over the landscape ends, and adjust to a better blue BUT the effect fizzles out halfway down the gradient.

This needs a logarithmic gradient, so where is the midpoint controller to drag down or even up for those users that dont need effects evenly spread throughout but more near the top ?

 

Gradients need such adjustability on the logarithmic nature of them.

 

Cheers

Merlin3

 

 

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Adobe
Community Expert ,
Jan 18, 2025 Jan 18, 2025

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Hi Merlin3
Can you please show us the two pictures (before/after). Then we have the same conditions and can try to give you specific tips.

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Community Expert ,
Jan 18, 2025 Jan 18, 2025

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@Merlin3 

 

Instead of dragging top to bottom or bottom to top, try starting midway or partway down/up. Choose undo inbetween until you get something you like.

 

Jane

 

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Contributor ,
Jan 18, 2025 Jan 18, 2025

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Hi, here is the image needing a non linear grad.

 

(and yes It was treated to dehaze, the grass cropped off from this looked ok, could perhaps do with a grad filter for the dehaze as well. if I redo it.)

the sky went horrendous cyan. I have another thats also done so. horrible effect on skies. perhaps cos its a neg scan and not a digi raw file.

 

merlin3

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Community Expert ,
Jan 18, 2025 Jan 18, 2025

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You are talking about logarithmic gradients as if that would fix your image.  I hate to be harsh, but that image was always beyond help.  You shot into the sun through a dirty windshield, and held the camera away from the windshield.  In situations like that, get the camera/phone whatever as close to the glass/plastic as you can to try and get those marks out of focus.  You have also overexposed the image. The poor thing never stood a chance.

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Contributor ,
Feb 02, 2025 Feb 02, 2025

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quote

 I hate to be harsh, but that image was always beyond help.  You shot into the sun through a dirty windshield, and held the camera away from the windshield.  In situations like that, get the camera/phone whatever as close to the glass/plastic as you can to try and get those marks out of focus.  You have also overexposed the image. The poor thing never stood a chance.


By @Trevor.Dennis


Into sun..I had no choice the subject was there and not behind me, , sometimes the subject/sun situation is as such, anyone attending Duxford airshow is faced with this issue yearly !

Through a dirty windshield…again no choice, I took a pleasure flight, one doesn’t say let me clean the screen. One is without such cloths and risking being told go away !

Camera away from windshield, I was seated in the back to get shots out of the side window, which came out good and are historcially important now.

No chance to climb through to the front and press camera against what is a sloping windscreen and get eye to the eyepiece to see what one is aiming at, it was a 35mm Canon camera in the 1980’s. With seatbelts on even being in the front would have made that impossible to do

You have also overexposed the image. Set to manual exposure sunny 1/250 f 11 200asa it shouldn’t have been overexposed, I never used auto. I might have incorrectly set it at start as those following were ok, rare that though ?

You want to see the miracles I am having to perform on other shots during the 35mm years, negs have faded, purse out of a sows ear has nothing on it, really putting raw mode through its paces, and needing better drawing tools in it.

 

Here is (screen capture) what I have managed so far, dehaze an awesome tool, that sky and horizon is troubling me.

Helicopter pic progress.jpg

Merlin3

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Community Expert ,
Feb 03, 2025 Feb 03, 2025

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Jane's answer above is spot on here. Drag your gradient from B to C not A to C. If you still need a different gradual transition between A and B then add a second gradient to the mask using the Add or Subtract buttons.

 

Dave

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