It's exciting to see what quality there is in 8k RAW video footage. Some of it I want to export as a single frame for use as a single still image. My question is I need to know how to export the highest quality of that still frame. Do I start with the clip in project panel or can I select from timeline panel and will the clip be the same if I do this the right way? I have no clue how to approach this so need help, your expert advice is what I really need right now.
Typically a still image for PRINT is 300 dpi and video is around 72 ppi. So that's one tidbit of info. There are some programs and printers ( I have a little dye transfer photo printer that does this pretty well ) that can print junk to a photo fairly well ( amazingly it interpolates internally and makes nice prints but they are small, like 4x5 ),
For web you can use full program monitor view, take screenshot, put into photoshop to crop and export for web.. Easy.
If you just want to freeze a frame and use it in timeline just do that ( you can even do a special KEN BURNS effect when you get more advanced ).
Or you can do a Neil effect which is even better !
Nobody knows what that is yet but we are of heightened alert and expectation and excited ( STOKED ! ).
stoked is a new word used by young people expressing " excitement' about something.
It used to be a word expressing what you do to feed a boiler on a steam locamotive ( stoke the fire ) so it wasn't a state of mind so much but more like a verb... 'stoke the fire'. Now young people are feeling like the fire and they are stoked ( especially at Adobe ). kinda amazing how time changes things.
what an idiot I am ! I just realized your question was about 'how to export the highest quality still frame .. ). I forgot to ask... duh... export to what for what purpose ?
I want to export for the purpose of working with the finest quality image in Ligthtroom and then in Photoshop, to balance shadows, highlights, vitalize detail and produce clean inspiring images of action shots of nature, animals, birds... anything beautiful in motion. To yeild the best final result there must be detail preserved in the original image, as close to what the camera is capable of. 45mp sensor and 8k RAW video means I will have 30 to 60 frames per second and that means being able to select just the right frame that captures the peak of the action. I do need to export the highest best quality from what the original video file has to offer... and so far, it is pretty good... Final use for the image is not so much the aim, I will show them on the internet, but getting the detail and crispness out is still a job for starting with the heaviest, most bloated with detail image that comes out of the camera first... will affect the outcome no matter print on poster size or little on the internet.
I see there is command - E or a little camera icon at the bottom of the Source Panel that will 'Export Frame' which is good for a start, now youj get to choose the format before you save and here, I know TIFF is a higher quality format than some of the others, all are offered without any controls, so choosing the format may be the answer - I attach a screen shot of the choices here. From an 8k RAW video the first TIFF save I now did is 4430 pixels wide, 2573 pixels deep at 72ppi, which is pretty good but I'm not sure it is all that is available. Here are the formats available and I'm not sure what DPX is or some of the others... I want to get this resolved because, yes, I'm stoked! at the quality even of the TIFF file so far...
Okay, Saved to the DPX format, Targa and OpenEXR to see which is the best and the image is twice the size... 8192 pixels wide and 4320 pixels deep at 72ppi... The image looks great on all of these larger size formats and at that size shows some promise for use as a quality final still image.
When you use photoshop see if you can use the color space for web if that's your final display platform, or sRGB. Using Adobe RGB is more for printing real paper prints at 300 dpi.
Also, you'll find that when you work on a large image ( 8k for example) and then save it as a size people look at on web ( much smaller like full HD ) the mid tones and blacks will close up a little ( will look slightly darker ). Is normal for all images that they get denser in tonality as you decrease the size.
That stuff is extremely subtle. For example, this image as a paper silver print ( photo from enlarger ) is way more pretty in tones than what you see here.... ( 11x14 print from 35mm film ).
Nice photo! Okay, to reiterate, rather than output, withi this question, I'm more interested in 'input' if you get my meaning. I want to extract the base level highest quality image from the original footage for a still... whatever that is, I want to get to it and pull it out and land it on my computer. Output can come later based on what it requires, but for now, my question is all about how to be sure I'm getting a final still image that is the highest quality possible from the 8k RAW footage.
First rule of using a video frame for an image source: Pixels is pixels.
If you have an 8k video image, you have 7680 × 4320 pixels. Period. No more, no less.
Export your video frame in a lossless format like tiff or bmp and you get all 33 megapixels in their original glory.
DPI has no meaning in a digital image until you want to print or display it.
Once you decide you want to print it, you need to do some math. How big do you want the print to be? What aspect ratio/orientation do you want?
The original frame is in a 16:9 format. If you want an 8x10 print, you will have to crop the image to make a portion of that 16:9 frame fit in an 8x10 frame. Should the 8x10 be landscape or portrait orientation?
If we assume that you keep all the pixels of your source image in the vertical dimension, your 8x10 cropped image will have pixel dimensions of 3456 wide (the "8" part) x 4320 high (the "10" part).
If we further assume that a dpi of 300 pixels/inch gives the razor-sharp print resolution that you want, then your 8x10 print from an 8k image source can be as big as 11.5 inches x 14.4 inches. An 8x10 image from that video frame printed at 150 dpi (often acceptable and visibly sharp) can be double that: about 23 inches by 29 inches.
This is just one example. But you should always remember the rule when saving a video frame as a digital image: pixels is pixels.
Thanks Jeff, This hits the nail on the head. Original pixel size is what I needed to know. So, Premiere Pro exports the frame at full highest resolution in most of the formats it offers. Much thanks sir.
It does. Unless you drop your 8k footage into a 4k or HD sequence. Then it defaults to exporting at the sequence resolution, not the source resolution.
Let's say you really know what your doing when you shoot stuff and you have a really good camera with great lenses and good media storage to capture images ( SD card, Hard drive, SSD, whatever ). Let's say you are a professional director of photography shooting the latest Speilberg produced and directed blockbuster movie... with a giant film crew so you can light it and so on...( using light meters, color meters, color correction gels, and all that stuff )... know what I mean ?
In short, your SOURCE material is perfect.
It goes without saying you can do stuff to levels, color and so on AFTER you get the perfect stuff into the editor... to finesse it.
Typically what you want to do is MATCH your project settings to exactly MATCH your source material.
That's it... simple. Now you got the BEST you can get cause it's what you SHOT.
SHOOTING raw is not always the best thing.. cause basically you have to debayer it somewhere and convert it to linear ( this is also true of log stuff... you have to make it linear ). That is done by ADOBE in your case, cause you have no control over that process using PPro... except as far as what PROXY you choose. You wouldn't believe how many stupid raw and log formats are now being pushed at customers these days.... and what editing progams CLAIM to work well with them.
Especially considering the dumb sRGB monitors most kids have to work with ( rec 709 is not even possible for them, let alone cinema grade stuff )
So, basically just do the best you can cause you already know most of what's going on...And beyond basic fundamental obvious stuff this forum is not a film school or a production company where you can work for 10 years as a camera assistant and finally rise to a camera operator and then finally a director of photography... nor learn how to edit feature films... I mean, really, let's get real.
You got an 8k monitor ??? Is it color calibrated ? What specific RAW stuff you using from which camera? It's ridiculous to get crazy about stuff when you just want a nice picture of a bird.... Just do it.
Thanks for all input.
can you post a pic of a bird by any chance ?? I've considered shooting a bird (in beech tree out window ) but they move so fast it's like impossible.
I do not have one yet, but will post as I am able. I'm still in the exploring stage and now have the answer to my question here. I need to ask one more question now about highest shutter speed available when shooting 8k RAW.
depends on your camera and what settings you can choose.
Based on old time film cameras for movies... in the US... and overseas ( for projection theatres ) you would shoot 24 fps with a 180 degree shutter ( 1/48 /sec shutter speed ). At 60fps your shutter would be 120th/sec... much faster and able to start getting sharper moving bird pics ).
You have to get out the mental thing where you have to shoot raw 8k... you can probably shoot prores or something else and not use so much resource re: media usage, bitrate, etc.
Anyway, if I shot a bird out my window I would use my still camera for a still image.... where I can use any shutter speed, F stop, ISO, etc... like really get a snapshot of bird similar to an NFL wide reciever catching a pass in end zone... really fast shutter speed for playback.
You don't have a TV video camera worth about 1 million bucks to shoot stuff like that.
Someone sent me this led 4 bladed led light from china ( no clue and it came from Amazon and I didn't get charged for it ). How weird.
But anyway, I decided to test it. You screw it into a standard socket. 150w, 65k.
So, I got no fixtures on ceilings and used table lamp instead. Doesn't fit with lampshade so I put that back on upside down for storage.
Now, I'm thinking... if I leave window open, put plate on top of lampshade with birdseed... I can get a bird shot finally ??? !!!
after about 30 min those panels got REALLY hot... scary.
I turned off and will throw that thing in the garbage.
No bird in their right mind would land anywhere near those lights.