Abambo
Community Expert
Abambo
Community Expert
Activity
‎Nov 23, 2016
08:24 AM
Did you upgrade your OSX in the meantime? Apple does not well run older software on newer OSX systems!
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‎Nov 16, 2016
08:02 AM
Jim_Simon wrote: wmv is the windows native video form. Maybe, but...it's just not a good option any more. Use MP4/H.264 from now on. Could you please motivate your findings?
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‎Nov 16, 2016
07:53 AM
First I have PP 2015 and 2017 in // on my machine. Second: I would not upgrade in the middle of a project, except if I could solve critical issues with that upgrade. As of my knowledge, Adobe flags all known issues in their documentation.
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‎Nov 16, 2016
07:47 AM
Yes, that's trying to get an output, but it does not tell me about sequence 9 and error 6.
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‎Nov 16, 2016
07:45 AM
wmv is the windows native video form. The mp4 convert worked, but in the meantime I have also extracted the audio and replaced it, as the error message suggests that there may be a problem with audio encoding. So now I'm again trying to convert the sequence to wmv and as a second trial, I'm converting the mp4 file to wmv. I will post the results of those manipulations.
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‎Nov 16, 2016
07:31 AM
You can use the "Browse" button and then navigate to the place, where Premiere Pro is installed. That should normally be this path: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2017 Be sure to tick the "Always use..." ! As you see, I still have the association and it works fine for me. I just tested it. You need however to save your old projects under a new name. And new projects won't open (probably) with the old software.
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‎Nov 16, 2016
07:19 AM
Encore from CS6 is the latest of this software. I suppose that Adobe thinks, that DVDs and BlueRays are no more state of the art and that content moves to all digital. I for myself I am creating only digital content to run from a hard disk or a stick. No DVDs for the last 5 years. Encore my be "old", but it is still the software to use if you are on Adobe Cloud. however if you want to invest a small amount of cash into a authoring software, here you go: The Best DVD Authoring Software of 2016 | Top Ten Reviews
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‎Nov 16, 2016
07:11 AM
I have the following cryptic error: - Encoding Time: 00:04:39 11/16/2016 10:55:44 AM : Encoding Failed ------------------------------------------------------------ Export Error If audio is in 2-pass VBR encoding mode, try either CBR or 1-pass encoding. Export Error Error completing render. Writing with exporter: Windows Media Writing to file: xxxxxx.wmv Writing file type: WMV Around timecode: 00:00:03:07 Component: Windows Media of type Exporter Selector: 9 Error code: 6 Source data is a MTS file from a blue ray (unprotected as it is a "home" production). I want to transcode pieces of that video to get it easily playable on a Windows PC and to get it more compact. Therefore I take the Video, put it on a sequence and export it with no other operations attached. Needless to say that I tested the hint...and it didn't work out. Currently I'm trying to change the output format to mp4. It's still running. My question is: where can I find more information on this verbose message: "Selector: 9" and the "Error code: 6"? For your Information, my versions: Windows 7 and the latest Adobe Premiere Pro 2017 (11.0.0 Build 154)
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‎Nov 11, 2016
04:20 AM
Thanks Sahil, Point 3 - Disable startup scripts. did the job. I disabled all startup scripts except those for 2017 programs. Bridge runs now like an hourglass.
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‎Nov 10, 2016
09:13 AM
t.w54303370 wrote: Thanks! I need to get some SD cards for backup, I only record to CF at the moment and I'm always paranoid I'll erase them by accident. My camera is a 5DM3. Records at the same time the pictures on both (CF and SD) cards. I would however have prefered to be able to use double CF cards. t.w54303370 wrote: I had needed to reuse my cards before I could export the entire catalogs, so as a backup I just imported the photos (as new, from the cards) to my desktop disk, and am now trying to copy the LR settings over from laptop to desktop without copying the images all over again. You can export part of your catalog as a new catalog and import that one into an existing catalog on a second machine. I find it easier to use an external disk for mobile working and importing that catalog onto my desktop catalog. My backup is a third disk on a NAS (actually it's a RAID, so I have additional protection). You can never be to paranoid if you handle data security and backups. 🙂 My current night mare would be a crypting virus. Therefore I disconnect the NAS after the backup (which is quite impractical).
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‎Nov 10, 2016
09:01 AM
My guess would have been working with size, as DPR files are quite a lot bigger then standard RAW files. You can still go and rename them on-card, before importing.
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‎Nov 10, 2016
06:55 AM
I found that Bridge 2017 is painfully slow against the 2015 edition and stalling after each click. Suspecting the cache, I tried to locate the cache to somewhere else, but I could not reach outside of my users account. I did reset all customizing by pushing the ctrl-alt-windows keys after start. I'm running Windows 7. Bridge version (2015) 6.3.186 x64 - (2017) 7.0.0.93 x64
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‎Nov 07, 2016
08:03 AM
I use an external hard-disk (USB3), where I store the catalog and the image files. That works fine, and I can edit the files on the computer at my discretion (I'm using 3 stations, as I have my own private worksation, my laptop and my work workstation). Do not forget, however to backup your image files and the catalog at regular intervals. I do that, each time I connect my HD to my workstation. My workflow is as follows: Mobile: 1TB of work disk Desktop: 6TB of picture disk Backup: NAS with 18TB space. When I'm on the road, I import my pictures from the CF card to my mobile work disk. I do my edits there. When I'm at home, I connect the mobile disk to my desktop and import that as a catalog to my desktop (File->Import from an other catalog). Then I backup my desktop to the NAS. After that, I only delete the files on my CF/SD card (my main camera is a EOS 5DM3 and I record always on both cards).
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‎Nov 07, 2016
07:59 AM
franklins81112604 wrote: Others I want to keep only as JPGs. In the light of available disk space, I wouldn't do that. I keep all my RAW files, except those that I want to delete, because they are out of focus or similar.
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‎Nov 07, 2016
07:54 AM
Golden rules for Lightroom: Do not change directory or filenames (important to your Lightroom database) outside of Lightroom. Lightroom does not physically put the files inside of its database, but uses only references. However, in the databases are stored your edits (only the parameters, no edited files). This means that when you apply a exposure of +1, Lightroom stares "Exposure +1" in the database. When you export your files, LR reads the original file, applies the edits accordingly and saves an edited file in the format you specified at the location you specified. This means, that when you move your original files or change the directory path to the file, without LR knowing about that, you will be in trouble. The file will still be shown thanks to a preview, and you may still apply parameters to it, but the connection to the original file is broken. LR shows that by a "!" in the image icon. Fortunately LR has tools to repair this (update folder location, synchronize folder). Suspected doubles are not imported again to avoid multiple problems with duplicates (which one is the current one?). If you want duplicating files for applying other datasets, do not copy the file (physically) but create a virtual copy, meaning simply to apply a second dataset to the same physical image file.
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‎Nov 07, 2016
07:35 AM
Look here: How to set Lightroom preferences In the Lightroom preferences you will find "Print Templates", where I suppose to find my user defines set-ups.
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‎Nov 07, 2016
07:29 AM
Happy that your problem has been solved.
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‎Nov 07, 2016
07:28 AM
White Balance does not induce noise, or you have a lot of noise in the eye picture. That's strange if not impossible for a ISO100 picture with no development going on. Development parameters can be applied as main parameters or via a filter (graduated, brush, radial). I'm sure that there are some parameter adjustments like "Shadows" or "Exposure" applied. As stated before, the pictures are out of focus and at least for the eye picture, I would also assume some camera shaking or subject movement due to too long exposure times. That can't be easily corrected, even that Photoshop has now a tool to enhance such pictures.
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‎Nov 07, 2016
03:20 AM
You can also use Image->canvas size in Photoshop. You could even automate the process of creating images for the frame, if you have a bunch of images to treat.
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‎Nov 07, 2016
03:08 AM
The eye picture seams to be too noisy for a ISO 100 picture. So I suppose that there was some processing going on, like adding exposure. Stroke effects will be visible, if the size of the tip is very fine or the tip is very hard. It also depends on the parameters your changing. Adding a lot of exposure will obviously show all the areas, where the brush passed over in a different shape/colour.
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‎Nov 07, 2016
02:52 AM
This tip will not solve your problem but help to find the real culprit: Printing text is very different from printing graphics, so you should test your printer with pictures. Export a picture to JPEG and print that picture from outside of Lightroom by using the OSX supplied tools for printing pictures. If that is slow too, the problem relies either in the printer or the printer driver.
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‎Oct 19, 2016
01:34 PM
The current algorithm in Photoshop for blowing up pictures is the best I have seen since the early PS versions. And yes, creating a bigger artwork may be a good idea, but this is about colours and inkjet printing. We are not talking about offset printing here. The only current reason, I my have to use CMYK is, when I need a clean black in offset.
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‎Oct 19, 2016
01:27 PM
KShinabery212 wrote: Make sure you are working in CYMK or at least convert the RGB image to CMYK. No, modern inkjet printers have a wider gamut then that what is possible in CMYK. They are approaching the RGB target with those 6+ colours. CMYK is only used with professional printing services like offset. And even there, you won't convert anymore all your pictures as modern RIPs can do that and more adapted to the specific printer. I use CMYK when I need to get a clean K, and only then. Most of my pictures stay in RGB and are happy as such.
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‎Oct 18, 2016
06:46 AM
This is a calibration problem. Your screen displays colours not only in an other system (RGB) as your printer (CMYK+other colours if it is a photo printer), but even if you work in the same system, like having 2 screens of the same make and model, you may have differences in colour and lightness. The solution to this is calibration. You (using a a calibration program and some special hardware) measure the colours reproduced and adapt some tables, that are used to translate the colours from one media to an other. This is complex and even pros are not always doing a good job here. To complicate the situation for prints, calibration is paper and ink dependant. If you are in a controlled environment, ie it's your screen and printer, then you can try to adapt the pictures in a way, that the print is looking correct. To be clear: this is absolutely an amateurish behaviour and should be replaced as soon as possible with a calibrated workflow. Anyhow, consumer printers are optimized for sRGB colour space and RGB printing. The printer and driver are using all the necessary measures to convert such an image to a correct paper image. You still need to select the correct paper and type for the print job! And if you are using a paper that is not listed by the printer driver, you need to load the correct colour tables for that paper, when they exist. In this case you only need to provide a good RGB image. If you are taking your design to an outside printer service, you absolutely need to make sure that you meet the correct and required parameters. Probably, by adapting your image to your printer using the correct paper parameters and the sRGB colour space, an outside print will not differ much. I still recommend doing a test print. At the end, it will be cheaper then to shredder all the prints. A test print may be a picture with stripes of different brightnesses. In the good old times a similar system was used to find out the correct parameters for classic photo developing. Also, a serious service provider will give some guidance on how to prepare the picture and will check if it is correct.
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‎Oct 18, 2016
01:05 AM
2 Upvotes
Contact Adobe Customer Service via chat or phone. This is a licensing issue that can't be solved by the users.
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‎Oct 10, 2016
04:30 AM
Rusti Alex wrote: Checked - Lightroom is up to date. You should still post a version number. It is not that difficult you know! You message will be obsolete and in a few month, nobody will be able to evaluate the problem and see if the problem is of concern to him.
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‎Sep 28, 2016
02:13 PM
1 Upvote
contact Adobe via chat on this issue!
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‎Sep 28, 2016
06:43 AM
Canon is right. The sensor is hell much more different to what has been used in the M3. Technologically the differences between M3, M2 and the original M1 were peanuts against what they introduced with the newer cameras. (Edit: This does contradict one of my earlier posts, where I said that it would be an easy go. That was referenced to a web article, describing the information that can be found in the new raw file format. The sensor itself is however quite complex.)
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‎Sep 28, 2016
06:20 AM
kenj63410513 wrote: Thank you. And I'm sorry to see someone spending their time unpaid doing what Adobe can very well afford to pay someone to do. A lot of the users here are highly qualified and know the specifics of the Adobe programs in a real world environment better then Adobe employees. The mixture of Adobe employees having much more insight to the code and those experienced users helping others out (and learning new proceeds by doing so) is, what makes this forums so interesting. Adobe rewards some of it's users for doing such. Don't be sorry for the help you get. Return it, when others are in need and you know the solution.
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‎Sep 28, 2016
05:41 AM
Is Lightroom compatible with macOS Sierra?[was: Sierra]
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