You could use the Minimum filter, with a little Levels to clean up the whites. It does make lines thicker, so a small amount is called for. Using the Preserve Roundness option allows a finer adjustment.   ... View more

You need to have the language installled on your system. See https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/manage-the-input-and-display-language-settings-in-windows-12a10cb4-8626-9b77-0ccb-5013e0c7c7a2 and https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/advanced-input-methods-for-east-asian-languages-1e47dbe5-b88f-41fc-8fdd-fef9d2a4644d  ... View more

Channels don't just disappear. There's no way that can happen, except if the whole file is corrupt, and then you have bigger problems.   If the alpha channel isn't there when you open the file, it means you didn't save the file after you saved the selection. Or you stepped back in History and then saved. ... View more

@max_2996  Copy/paste is the proper and safe way to do it if you want to avoid scaling and quality degradation.   Placing a smart object is exactly when you can get unwanted scaling, which was the problem here. ... View more

Illustrator has cleaner vector-based lines. I'd import the PLACE, and TRACE it in Illustrator.  ... View more

@hinddj not sure one operation via the Load Selection menu would be possible given that you could want subtraction, addtion, intersection, etc. The best possible option that allows for this now is as @Semaphoric menitoned using the Channels Panel with your saved selections, you can use key commands to do any of the above options with a modifier (shift, alt/opt) and a click. ... View more

I don't use the iPad version. The full version has PPI, or Pixels per Inch under Image > Image Size, which determines the print output size. ... View more

Does this happen wilth all the Brush presets, or only a few? In the Brush Settings panel, is the Spacing value set to a very high value? ... View more

For 30+ years, I believe, I've used the same tool. In the same location. With the same, solid results. Now, 30+ years later, after having paid I have no idea how many thousands of dollars for a program, updates, and now subscriptions, I have to go begging for an answer, and, oh yeah, have tech support disconnect and/or not answer me. The first guy switches me to the Photoshop team. The guy on the Phothoshop team, he didn't know. He asked me a bunch of questions, and then he said he needed a couple of minutes to go check with someone. Really? Possibly the most basic question someone could have? Okay. Well, thank you, Semaphoric. I still feel like an idiot, but, at least I have an answer.  ... View more

This might be the solution to your poblem: https://youtu.be/DfAEunnVbHY?si=kaxGFRoHvWfHuQ6E ... View more

The Import and Export  functionality for most Presets are now found in the panel menus for the individual Preset type. ... View more

@KariKorpihete    The black X close button in the upper right is difficult to see. I took this screenshot from your image and marked the X in red.   Jane   ... View more

Add them in layers and blend, or select what you want on another layer. Just like a regular photo. You may need to Rasterize the ai photos. ... View more

What are the pixel dimensions? ... View more

It happen the same to me, and I solved in a easy way. Save and restart PS. ... View more

@patjenran Yes I'd use Levels too, I would do it in an 'adjustment layer, that way the Levels adjustment can be localised using a soft edge mask as @D Fosse suggested. With a layer you can also switch it on and off and alter it's opacity to reduce the effect you've created if need be .  You’ve a pleasant task ahead.  I would also be sure to archive a layered original TIFF or PSD file, only flattening resizing and sharpening for specific outputs at which point it's OK to make a Jpeg .    I hope this helps neil barstow, colourmanagement net - adobe forum volunteer - co-author: 'getting colour right' google me "neil barstow colourmanagement" for lots of free articles on colour management Help others by clicking "Correct Answer" if the question is answered. Found the answer elsewhere? Share it here. "Upvote" is for useful posts. ... View more

You can use the Ruler tool. First, measure the length to find how many pixels in one centimeter. If you have the Measurement Log window open, you can record this value.   By @Semaphoric   +1   I was going to suggest a similar method.   ... View more

That's the beauty of Photoshop: many paths lead to the same goal. 😉 By @pixxxelschubser What's the old saying? "There are at least three ways to do anything in Photoshop. " ... View more

Hi, @jane-e  I clicked that link and saw a non english alphabet all over the page, and hit the back button within a second, have I infested my pc with spam ? That person, single cell amoeba, lowlife, must be legally tracked down and eliminated from posting, will that be done ?   Filter >distort >shear and add in a lot more nodes has given me this. If the grid was larger one would be able to place more nodes where needed to match the water, its far too small, why not give us a decent sized box. its 30mm wide which at 2ft from the screen is very small to move a mouse about in. Also try zigzag but no manual control over where the zig and zag go, I need them to coincide with the water patterns. Frustrating no decent controls so user gets the pattern to match where the distortion has to go.   Wave has what looks to be controls, BUT after some playing around none gave the number of ripples I needed . needs an extra slider.   Bottom line is Pshop needs a tool where as one clicks and drags, where one needs the wriggle to go,  it warps just that area with the limit decided by a radius around the click point when starting. Smudge smudges.   Also none of these preview on the image so I can’t see if the distortion is where the waves are. They preview in a piddly small box and its only showing the selection layer and not the layer below it.   Wish these things were designed by actual users.   Merlin ... View more

Thank you! ... View more

Could you please post a screenshot to illustrate the issue? Ensure the Layers panel is expanded and visible. ... View more

Which version of Photoshop are you running? Several people here have reported an, in my opinion, unduly alarming alert about not being supported, meaning no longer updated. However, as far as I know, if you dismiss the alert, you should be able to use Photoshop normally. ... View more

I don't see where a  Gradient Map enters into this, but the filters in the Sketch section of the filter gallery, except for Water Paper, use the foreground and background colors to their effect. ... View more

BTW, I have not figured out how to change the new Gradient color BEFORE applying it, as I'm used to do it with the "Classic" gradient. By @Roger Breton   For the Gradient tool, you set the default by choosing your gradient preset from the options bar for the Gradient tool, or in the Gradients panel. The currently selected gradient preset determines the next gradient.     This can seem unfamiliar and jarring to anyone who built their muscle memory around setting the gradient colors in advance by setting the Foreground and Background swatches, because for the Gradient tool that’s not enough (although it can be if you select the right preset, see below). In my opinion, it’s worth retraining around the new way with the Gradient tool because it offers some advantages that weren’t possible the old way.   One of the problems with the classic way is that the Foreground and Background swatches let you set only two color stops, and they can only be the ends of the gradient. The way the new object-oriented Gradient tool gradients work (i.e., you select the preset to set the default) the default can now involve any number of colors, using any number of stops, including not just color stops but also opacity stops. So the new way is potentially much more flexible. You just have to orient yourself around gradient presets, and set up the ones you like the most so you can set your default in one click.   And…this does not mean the Gradient tool completely prevents you from using the Foreground and Background swatches. If you want the Foreground and Background swatches to continue having a role with the Gradient tool, then you want to select the preset named Foreground to Background. As long as that is your Gradient tool preset, it will follow the current foreground and background colors you set.      However, Photoshop seems to forget that the Foreground to Background preset was selected, so you kind of have to verify that it is before you drag the Gradient tool again.   (Sorry about the gradient quality in the GIF animations…the forum software does some kind of recompressing that makes them look worse than in the original GIF files I upload.) ... View more

brillaint thanks  ... View more

I had the same problem. When I clicked on a specific brush, the color of the border of that brush appeared as orange instead of blue. The orange color means that the settings of the currently selected brush are different from the settings in Brush Settings. For example, if you select a brush and edit something in Brush Settings, you will see an orange border. However, this problem occurs even if you click on the brush and try to change the Brush Settings to the settings of the selected brush. How to fix This problem actually occurred because you cannot change the settings of the selected brush.   Check if there is an option locked with a lock icon in the Brush Settings panel. If there is, click on the locked option to unlock it.   Then select the brush again and it should be fixed. Thank you. ... View more

Thank you Jeff. It's nice to have a genuine issue taken seriously, rather than LEGENDS assuming you're an idiot and marking their own non-answers correct. Cheers! ... View more

thank you!! ... View more

faleshias,   I used OCLP (Open Core Legacy Patcher) with a Nvidia NVS 510 Metal capable graphics card to get Monterey on my 2008 MacPro, which soon may be upgraded to Ventura or Sonoma because of Apple dropping support for Monterey.   Macs from 2012 onwards already have Metal graphics cards. (except for the 2012 Mac Pro, to which one can easily add one)   On 2012 and newer Macs you should be able to run the newest Photoshop 2024. You really should have an ssd and at least 8 gb of ram if your going to use Open Core Legacy Patcher.   The 2008 Mac Pro's processors doesn't meet the specs to run Photoshop 2024, so one has to run an older Photoshop version like Photoshop 2020 (ps ver 21.2.12), however surprisingly Camera Raw 16.5.1, Lightroom Classic 13.5.1 and Photoshop Elements 2024 all do work, albeit some functions don't work so well like Enhance, again due to the limitations of the processor and old GPU.   sites that have excellent info on Open Core Legacy Patcher https://dortania.github.io/OpenCore-Legacy-Patcher/ https://www.youtube.com/c/MrMacintoshBlog/videos https://www.youtube.com/c/JessiesFlying/videos ... View more