Hi, three examples attached first one distant shot of trees, having to try and fix a reflection from within the helicopter the trees are a different hue, I wish to select the wrong hue part and then say to Pshop match the hue of that at left and/or that at right., by selecting an area with lasso tool or paint in quickmask mode. or pipette set to a large sample. I would prefer drawing an area to supply the most area to sample from.   In the second closer to view of ground there is some minor light bleed across the 35mm film, gone a bit orange, so select the grass and trees and say match the hue of area to left.   Third example light bleed this time across tarmac, need to sample the adjacent tarmac and say match the hue in that area, likeweise the grass there. to match the strip of grass. perhaps the grass and tarmac in one 'hit' would do it, being all of one correct unafflicted area ?   Hope these are ok.   any chance of a step by step ? I keep needing to do this sort of thing, messing about with colour balance, hue and tint sliders never seems to get it same. and I spent hours fiddling.  In fact I bet many need this.   Merlin ... View more

Hi, I did some tests with the friend who a year or so ago, showed me the wonders of opening non original raw files into camera raw using file>open as>camera raw.   So doing so on a .jpg that has never started life as a RAW file in a camera, a scan of a 35mm neg for example. If I open that in the raw editing , create some named masks, then open into Pshop 26.2 using Open option and save the file as a jpg, as I wouldnt want to lose what I had just done as an image, then open that again in same way into camera raw, the masks get lost. If however I brave it and dont even save it, then open it again into camera raw in same manner, the masks are there ! If I use the option at top of raw converter, the downward pointing arrow into square, and check the settings seem good to go, it fails to save the masks. I have just spent 3 hrs editing a .jpg image (scan of a 35mm neg) , and clicked open, then went save as .tiff, so as not to lose what I had done, then went close without saving the jpg, then file>open as>camera raw and browsed to that jpg, it opened WITH NAMED MASKS. Don’t save the jpg you open into Pshop, else it will lose the masks, seems to be the rule. Its all very scary and something needs explaining to all users editing jpg in raw mode here. Save as a copy and choose tiff, then don’t save the jpg. Needs more testing but so far that seems to fix the issue.   also with raw converter editor open its tricky if not impossible to gain access to other progs on the pc such as email, the internet, anything, even word doc, took me several goes to try and get a word doc up over the editor so as to make some notes in it. why the heck cant we have a minimise button on that cconverter ? Merlin3 ... View more

Hi, Thanks for replying, Easy as the pattern is 90degs to the line, now try a line of 45 degrees, it takes the mortar but places it where it isn't wanted and doesnt match up. for me anyway. How is it done for angled lines to patterns,. I had a roof light on an industrial building, running the length of the roof, tiles above and below. and the metal dividing bars didnt marry up. try for that grille top left and the window far right as well, a line at a good angle to the lines there.   Merlin3 ... View more

Many thanks, glad that was easy. Not the nice light blue of CS6 but a dirty light blue but better than another grey. the interface is dirty so dirty light blue I guess is in keeping ! To have the active tab distinctive is my desire ever since CS6 took away the visible difference there. If it works dont fix it, I wish Adobe adopted that policy. Its been a constant struggle to be sure which tab is active before doing something. If I can find the suggestions method I will suggest we are returned to what we once had for active tab.   Merlin3 ... View more

Hi, @jane-e  I clicked that link and saw a non english alphabet all over the page, and hit the back button within a second, have I infested my pc with spam ? That person, single cell amoeba, lowlife, must be legally tracked down and eliminated from posting, will that be done ?   Filter >distort >shear and add in a lot more nodes has given me this. If the grid was larger one would be able to place more nodes where needed to match the water, its far too small, why not give us a decent sized box. its 30mm wide which at 2ft from the screen is very small to move a mouse about in. Also try zigzag but no manual control over where the zig and zag go, I need them to coincide with the water patterns. Frustrating no decent controls so user gets the pattern to match where the distortion has to go.   Wave has what looks to be controls, BUT after some playing around none gave the number of ripples I needed . needs an extra slider.   Bottom line is Pshop needs a tool where as one clicks and drags, where one needs the wriggle to go,  it warps just that area with the limit decided by a radius around the click point when starting. Smudge smudges.   Also none of these preview on the image so I can’t see if the distortion is where the waves are. They preview in a piddly small box and its only showing the selection layer and not the layer below it.   Wish these things were designed by actual users.   Merlin ... View more

Hi, I can add my two pennuth on selecting edges, I am no expert but been doing such 40 years, perhaps in a wrong way ! Extensis used to make add ons for photoshop I recall that managed to make a soft edge that cleverly took out the adjacent colour so no halos existed, also could deal with selection of hair. I seemed to think such clever tools were then added by Adobe themselves. Being a CS6 user I have to do it the old way, 1. paste the T shirt picture into the recipient picture and scale it to size. 2. make the eraser have the same soft edge as the edges of objects in the receiving picture.  3. duplicate the image and save as pre trimmed,turn it off, just incase you goof ! 4. erase round the edge with edge of circle of the eraser  half way across the fade edge. (caps lock toggles gunsight/circle). Tip.. I prefer to paint with black in quick mask mode, hit Q for quick mask, black becomes red as you paint, gives the chance to filter > gaussian blur that quick mask if need be, and a good visual on where you are. hit Q again and save the selection etc. Finish off in Channels. Tip. when in channels and the b/w image, my saying is, exit channels via top RGB layer, (i.e. click on top layer, before going back to layers.) 5. delete using that selection 6. with eraser nibble away any darker halo. I feel there is no perfect auto tool, nothing like the manual touch. 7. loss of a few pixels wont show on a big item.   I wish when altering brush size that the width of the soft edge remained constant, one is always after same feather width when painting into small areas yet Adobe want to make the edge feather less as you choose a lesser diameter. so end up with harder edges. Does my head in ! maybe CC has now overcome that failing, has it ?   Also one needs to match the grain in the image to the recipient image, ( I have started a thread on that) https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-discussions/what-method-match-noise-in-existing-photo-to-added-image/td-p/14890087   as well as the degree of blur. and direction of light.   As for altering colours, I tend to use HSL as an adjustment layer tick box to apply to previous layer. sometimes I end up using colorise. tick box as well in that interface for HSL. also Colour balance.   No doubt others have better ways. I am keen to know of such !   Merlin   ... View more

Um ??? I want to make a straight line wavy or wriggly so it matches the ripply water, and you say to draw a straight line use a ruler ? anyone else care to add such jewels of wisdom ?   Merlin ... View more

Hi Stephen, I got as far as this:- 1. sample an area of uniform colour and lightness, avoid shadows etc. there waaas such immediate left of the figure. 2. paste above the figure layer, name it noise and right click make smart object. 3. with that layer active run action, need click first line below action title. creates a grey looking layer, entire scene develops a fine grain noise. 4. magic wand outside of figure, sample all layers off. 5. use the selection made to delete the grey layer except for the figure. thats the stage in attached image. noise pattern different to the sample. Thinks now what ? when action ran I didnt get to see wher it ran and stopped at. two red ticks obviously dont get run. How do I get the noise like the area sampled. Surprised its not captured its subtleness size etc. What didnt I do to cause the mismatch ? what action in what is a long list, longer than that in the posted image, is next to be run ?   I havent the time to go trying to make a noise pattern that is seamless. Thats a make big enough to cover the subject route, whilst I was after a sampling gathers evidence on the pattern, size and softness route, hoping Pshop had clever processes to sample small and make a continuous effect from it. If the pattern is like a pot of maggots then a pattern that is random pixels of differing grey value isnt quite the same. see attached image.   D Fosse. so your steps are:- Add noise amount 1.3 %  (monchromatic checked) but is that uniform or gaussian ? Add noise amount 1.0 % monochromatic unchecked, but is that uniform or gaussian. Gaussian blur radius 0.2 or 0.3 pixels. The GB also blurs my figure, so should I be applying those noises to a neutral grey layer over the top of the figure ? what blend mode is then applied to the layer ? I ran with Gaussian each time rgb 140 140 140 and uniform, see results attached.   Again thats a random set of pixels, if the noise has some kind of pattern, then that wont replicate it. Not sure why noise could gain a pattern, but in my case its not so random. study the noise in the ship side and whaat was created on the trousers.   Merlin ... View more

In the first part, I commented on how one may extract a large flat area of grain using the "High Pass" filter, or by using a common retouching technique called "Frequency Separation". I expected that you would research these keyword clues for more information on these topics.   Hi, I have looked at videos on both the High Pass filter and the Frequency Separation. In High pass he takes a copy of the image (girls face)  creating a smart object allowing adjustments thereafter etc and runs the high pass filter,. It accentuates and picks out detail texture areas. I can see this of use in my case picking out my grain in my sampled area of noise. So I think I am getting the idea of  that being applied over my human, overlay mode etc. In the Frequency Separation a duplicate layer of the girls face is made, twice, one for texture and one for colour, then texture differences picked out, and on the colour layer Gaussian blur applied until any texture is gone, then the two are brought together as one influencing ‘add’ layer over the original image. Not sure I need the colour aspect though. However my sampled area is small compared to the figure. Whilst in these vids the sampled area is same size. I can’t see how my sample after high pass filter etc can be applied over a much larger image. I could scale it far bigger but that’s not sampling the grain, the pot of maggots are now a pot of lobworms ! I was needing Pshop to take an area and sample the grain size and shape and then apply that to anything I wish, , many times bigger to the sample if need be. What am I missing here. Does the action then do that , yes I get a screen full; of noise, its missing the soft nature though, very coarse, now wondering what actions make it match the boat. Excuse me if I am being thick. I have never explored all these wondrous things, medium level editing, quickmasks, pasting between channels,  editing in channels, altering with levels, enough to edit things out or in, photomerge etc. actions to repeat steps I did, adjustment layers, raw adjustments, thats my lot. I can follow a step by step, makes sure anything I am expected to know about but haven’t experience of doesn’t end my journey.   And Hi D Fosse. I don’t see Luminance in the apply noise dialog box. However a friend with CC also only sees what I see. I have a feeling those options are not available to me but to him with CC, puzzled.   Merlin ... View more

Hi, Thanks D Fosse, I will also try that. and report back on how it looks.   Stephen, I am a little lost having run the action it creates a layer, but then... not sure when in the process I get to select an area that needs sampling, in fact the boat has large areas of 'off white' (HSB 72%B)  to his left, with no detail on them., ideal for sampling. How should I indicate the area to the action ? Each action runs one step and stops. Not sure how I have the layer apply the effect over just him, etc. Can you give me a step by step on this ?   Cheers   Merlin ... View more

Hi Stephen, Most grateful to you. Will the downloaded SmartNoise CS3.atn file work in CS6 ? I will try it out on my image, as you can see there is a uniform area of colour near him to sample. I can understand that if the recipient image is very mixed content than extracting the noise pattern and size could be tricky. I would love to see tutorials on editing one image into another, they must solve the noise matching else the images will stick out like a sore thumb. Adobes 'add noise' is woefully short of whats needed. There should at the very least be a noise size slider and noise softener, as blurring the image isnt good. To know a bit more about how to add noise and use layers and other blending modes is something I need to do. I see one tut here but its having to use the sand grain size noise and its too simple and precise for whats needed if pebbles are more the size. variances in colour would also nbe useful, amazed Adobe have overlooked this filter all these years. Feel free to try yours out on my sample I posted.   Merlin ... View more

Many thanks, 1920 x 1080 72dpi it is then. for all my images and page creations. Merlin ... View more

Hi, I can select the colour at top menu and it changes, but selecting the colour in the left side coloir picker doesnt change, I have to copy paste the hex value or write down the RGB and type these into the colour box at the top menu, then it works.   I always mix my colours using the left hand side box, so its a pain that one doesnt alter the text colours. is there a trick in migrating the mix there to the top most box that is for text colours ?   I often find I have dabbled with coliurs for my text at left, then during editing find the upper box hasnt the colour.   Merlin ... View more

Hi, I have just tried out the method of windows key and printscreen, repeatedly, and locating the C drive folder they go to ( I never save to C drive) I can now bring these into Pshop. So then the file>scripts>Load files into stack and browsing to the Picures on C drive, I can get a file with layers from them. then select them all and Edit>Auto Align layers. and they get combined into a single photo. Easy and it works. EXCELLENT. three stages and job done. Just a question of remembering the three steps and locations. Then remember to delete off from C drive. I only ever save to D drive normally. The key thing is windows key and printscreen allows multiple copying, the screen dips darker momentarily. No box to denote the area, just the entire screen gets copied, I am good with that.   THIS IS A GAME CHANGER FOR ME. Merlin ... View more

Hi, the websites I need to do this on, don't lend themselves to the techniques mentioned. I can get the image captured and saved in a minute, whilst saving files to a folder then opening and converting into a single file (I have yet to find a way to do that) is not as quick. I am however not wanting to lose my place whilst moving about on the photo. Sourcing its source and copying it that way, I have tried that at times and its a dead end. It has to be quick, and so copy copy copy paste paste paste, is such. Just need a clipboard manager that Photoshop works with. I was so surprised to find that Ditto shows the thumbs, and no means of pasting them. all I need is a clipboard manager like the Lsoft one, but capacity for far more copies.   Merlin3   ... View more

Hi, Let me clarify. I have an image on someones's webpage which when clicked on the + icon now shows a part of that image at max resolution, as I move it around I am seeing part of it at any one time, so if I can hit printscreen then move it and printscreen then move it and printscreen, etc until all is captured. (and I must not visit photoshop after each printscreen, else I lose my position where I got to on the image, ) then and only then maximise photoshop, and paste the copies one at a time into a photoshop .psd file, creating layers as such, thats what I need. Ditto doesnt allow paste, yet its a paste clipboard manager, with a thumbnail selected, Ctrl v does nothing, there is no highlight a thumbnail paste option. With the Msoft one only three images are allowed, though it says 25, its 3, and at least I can select a thumb then ctrl v and it pastes. 3 is no use , I just did 12 for one webpage image. I want to keep it simple, not end up in 2 progs, scripting and so on. Just want a clipboard manager that allows selection of thumbnail then ctrl V and it pastes into an existing .psd file, so I end  up with 12 layers. then I crop to just the picture and then use arrange layers align. and get one large image.   HTH Merlin ... View more