Djuna_A_
Explorer
Djuna_A_
Explorer
Activity
‎Dec 06, 2017
10:13 AM
Hi there, I'm trying to copy a strip of this paper, rotate that strip, and paste on the sides. I've already extend-cropped. I can't select the "Transform" option in the Edit menu. Any ideas why? I have a MacBook Pro, High Sierra.
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‎Oct 28, 2017
04:50 PM
Okay, thanks... I got everything but this: "Just get them to match by adjusting the calibration parameters for white point (luminance and color!) and black point." I don't know how to "match" except that by following the default calibration parameters for white point (thank you, Google) plus the black point luminance setting you suggested: 1.0 - 1.8 cd/m². It seems to me that since I can't get a printed sample from the offset printer (I just have access to laser), I should calibrate my black point to the contrast ratio of the printer ("From Printer Profile")? And work in a dimly lit room, etc.
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‎Oct 28, 2017
03:26 PM
Also, a question: Do I still select "Black Point Compensation" in the printer profile conversion at Photoshop after setting black point for my monitor?
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‎Oct 28, 2017
03:05 PM
Argh. I was in "Beginner Settings." For Contrast Ratio, I can choose "Native," "287:1", "Custom" or "From Printer Profile." I can also simply choose "Custom Black Point" with the value of 1.4 cd/m2... I'm guessing that's it?
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‎Oct 28, 2017
02:42 PM
D Fosse, I don't see any settings for contrast ratio (IIRC) here... and the white point is measured differently than the luminance. (These are the settings the guy at i1Pro suggested):
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‎Oct 28, 2017
11:00 AM
I have an X-Rite i1 Display Pro... will check out the black point settings. Thanks again!
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‎Oct 25, 2017
09:38 PM
Okay, so I'm in the home stretch. Calibrated monitor, edited in RGB and then duplicated and converted to CMYK profile (Japan Color 2001 Coated)... destination: unspecified offset printer in Japan. I don't know the paper color, and I'm not going to see the proofs. So obviously I'm not going for perfection here. What I'm wondering is, would it be misleading to get the files printed out at a local laser printer place (they can do CMYK and keep my embedded profile, but their printer is not calibrated to that profile)? I mean, aside from just proofing them for scratches and sharpening... would the increased saturation of the laser printer just lead me astray? Should I just go with my monitor at this point for color, contrast, brightness...? Thanks!
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‎Oct 16, 2017
10:54 AM
Japan Color 2001 Coated. I just looked up this: total amount of the density is 350%. So glad I asked ! Yes, I just didn't want to start over. I suppose I'll start over with this one file and see how far I get
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‎Oct 16, 2017
08:39 AM
And another.
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‎Oct 16, 2017
08:34 AM
I converted to CMYK early because I was advised to edit in CMYK. I just edited in the printer profile, which is a CMYK profile. Okay here is the file with some "black" pixels, actually purple, but high numbers of each color.
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‎Oct 16, 2017
07:41 AM
Thanks! This is helpful. I understand the numbers. What I still don't understand is something very basic: how to check the numbers, short of eye dropping each pixel. I converted to CMYK early and edited there (not knowing otherwise), so is there a way to check that the already edited files don't have blacks that exceed the ink limit? I just sampled some of the black pixels in one file, and the numbers are high; it seems like they would exceed the ink limit. Is there a way to universally apply this black setting/limit? I don't think it's a swatch, since I"m not painting or working with background...
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‎Oct 15, 2017
11:34 PM
Hi again, finishing up my CMYK files. I've been advised here to do "full black" because of the weak blacks from the offset printer, but I don't know what this means in CMYK (not Grayscale). I'm not painting or messing with background or foreground colors, so I'm not doing swatches or picking colors. These are photographs of paintings that will be printed in a book. (And yes! I have the calibrator AND the printer/paper profile.) Thanks again!
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‎Oct 08, 2017
12:48 PM
D. Fosse (or anyone) I do know the profile -- Japan Color 2001 Coated. "Fiddling with sliders in CMYK, without thoroughly knowing what you're doing, is a disaster waiting to happen. For one thing, you can very easily exceed total ink limit, resulting in smearing and drying problems." Yes, I don't know what I'm doing thoroughly, that's for sure. But I have a monitor calibrator. Is knowing the correct profile plus a monitor calibrator enough to adjust/use the sliders by sight and know that I won't exceed the total ink limit? It's too late to go back and do RGB everything -- but I'll know now for the future.
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‎Oct 08, 2017
11:29 AM
Hello, I'm learning the levels adjustment. I have a question about the spike of K (in CMYK mode) on the right side of the histogram. If I understand correctly, the right side is for highlights, and everything that appears shoved over to the right will be overexposed? If that's the case, why then when I move the slider on the black level from the far right over to the center, do the blacks in my image appear lighter? I also tried the option + click on my mac to show me the colors as they are clipped, but it doesn't seem to do anything. Any input welcome. Thanks!
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‎Oct 06, 2017
12:19 PM
Yeah, they're going to fiddle with the size (but not aspect ratio) to fit an A5 layout. Which mades me wonder... I already flattened all the layers. I don't think there's any way I can lock down everything-but-the-size at this point so that they don't accidentally do something?
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‎Oct 06, 2017
11:18 AM
Okay, yes, I did work mostly in 16. So now I should convert to 8, or just leave them all as they are? The publisher has requested PSDs. And, yes, I did save all JPEGS as TIFF immediately... check check check.
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‎Oct 06, 2017
11:05 AM
Correction: some of the pictures have gaps in tonal variation; some do not. The ones shot in JPEGs tend to have no shadows.
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‎Oct 06, 2017
10:47 AM
Hi there, Half of my files were shot in JPEG and therefore have low tonal variation in the histogram. The other half in TIFF have high variation. All are converted to PSDs for the printer. For the best quality, should I send the first half out as dithered 8 bits and the second as 16 bits? Thanks!
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‎Sep 28, 2017
12:16 PM
1 Upvote
Yes, I was in quick mask! That was the problem. Now I can crop and edit normally. Thanks, everyone, for your help! Whoo hoo!
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‎Sep 28, 2017
11:35 AM
oops, I meant "uncropped," not uncrossed.
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‎Sep 28, 2017
11:31 AM
Brad, I tried changing to an RGB profile, and I just got a different shade of red. Melissa, unfortunately I didn't save my layers. But above is what I'm seeing. The first is uncrossed; the second is when I try to extend a crop in layer 0, and the third is the cropped-and-filled file from yesterday whose extended areas have been turned red
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‎Sep 28, 2017
10:22 AM
Hi there, Somehow the layers in this one file in Photoshop CC 2017 cannot be edited; only the channels can. The mode is CMYK. It was originally shot in TIFF (as were all the other files). I thought I solved it by creating a duplicate layer. This permitted me to extend-crop and fill, etc. in the duplicate layer. But now when I open the file, the extended-crop area is highlighted red again. How will this print out? Why is my layer 0 inaccessible in this one file alone, and is there any way to reverse that? Thanks!
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‎Sep 23, 2017
12:37 PM
A lingering question as I wait for my calibrator to arrive: I get the calibrating to ambient light and color profile, etc. I know the paper is "coated." What I don't yet understand is if I can't know the paper color (the publisher doesn't know), and I'm wondering if there is a big difference between calibrating to printing on cream paper vs white-white paper... Maybe this will become apparent as I work with the calibrator, but more thoughts welcome.
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‎Sep 16, 2017
11:45 AM
Thanks again, D Fosse.
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‎Sep 16, 2017
11:00 AM
Hi there, I hired a Mac Tech to help me with my files, and he changed my RGB color setting (Under "Workspace"). I now want to change it back, but I don't remember what the default setting was. I have Photoshop CC 2017. The files had been converted to a CMYK profile, Japan Color 2001 Coated, and I have a Macbook Pro OS X Yosemite, in case those apply. Thanks!
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‎Aug 26, 2017
02:38 PM
Thanks, D. Fosse. I do already know the profile. I don't know what plate they will be using, and I don't have a monitor calibrator. But you gave me the link to some, and I'll check it out now, as I got an extension on deadline. I think this issue will remain "over my head," or at least beyond it, until I actually see it in front of my head.
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‎Aug 12, 2017
09:13 AM
That is, the publisher has stipulated this profile. It's for an offset press.
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‎Aug 12, 2017
09:11 AM
I would love to, but the profile is CMYK.
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‎Aug 12, 2017
08:46 AM
OH, I see now when I open each file, the CMYK values are the same. Does this mean they are APPLIED to each file automatically, ,i.e. whatever appears in the Color Picker viewer is applied?
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‎Aug 12, 2017
08:42 AM
I am preparing files for offset printing. I have the printing profile as "Japan Color 2001 Coated." I do not have a monitor calibrator; I just want to optimize the blacks. When I go to Color Picker and select the CMYK values for "true black" (75/68/67/90), nothing seems to happen on my file. I also don't see the "step" when I go to the edit menu, so I'm confused. Is there a way to simply apply "true black" universally to my 17 files? Is that even desirable, e.g. won't I run the risk of converting some desired greys to undesired black if I do this? I don't have much visible black in my files, eg. there is no text, just a lot of color. Any input welcome. Simple language, please; I'm not going to learn color management in depth... I just want to do the best I can for this project.
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