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Hi , as the title says , i am not expert in building a PC .
i just searched for the best PC build based on my needs + budget . and i will put my list and some comments .
my main usage it Video Editing and Rendering (not interested that much in gaming but you can consider it) Adobe collection mainly and some other software .
i am not a type of people who likes to change/upgrade PC/Machines from time to time - as long as it meets my needs-
my budget is 1400$ (including shipping to my country so the below list fits with me if you have any changes on it please consider it)
here is my suggested list , feel free to change it based on my needs please .
Type ItemCPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | prefer AMD Ryzen |
Motherboard | MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | i am not a big fan of using wifi on PC so i can save money on non-WIFI motherboard . need stable one with less common problems also i read some common problems on selected one above but not sure is it worth to consider or not also some friend advised me to chose TUF GAMING X570-PLUS instead of MPG X570 GAMING PLUS because of some issues but not sure which one to pick |
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory | good and compatible one 🙂
|
Storage | Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | M.2 with 500 GB is more than enough as long as i have sinology for storage . and if you see that normal SSD is enough to go for based on my usage it is fine to save money in other parts . because i sow some reviews says that it will not give you that much different but will wait for your answer |
Video Card | EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card | need stable one with less common problems and compatible with adobe premiere |
Case | NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case | i don't care with its look/color/lighting or anything i just want a house for my other parts and it would be great if supporting extra USB3/Type-C/SD card slots |
Power Supply | Thermaltake Smart 600 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | nothing to say here other than it can handle all parts WATTs and event after OC
|
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts | ||
Total | ||
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-10 05:07 EST-0500 |
thanks in advance .
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Looks decent, except that I would choose a better-quality power supply unit than the one that you chose. You see, that Thermaltake Smart is only an 80-Plus plain certified PSU with all of the cables - both necessary and redundant - permanently attached. This is a sign of a relatively low-quality power supply unit to begin with. Despite its "600W" rating, it might only handle 450 to 500 watts before shutting itself down to save the connected components. Moreover, all of the components in your planned build combined draw almost as much power (at maximum load) as the maximum practical capacity of that Thermaltake-branded unit, even when none of the components are overclocked at all. That's way too close for comfort, IMHO.
And like other "600W" PSUs priced as low as that Thermaltake-branded unit, it is continuously rated at 600 watts - but at a rather unrealistically cold internal operating temperature of only 40ºC - which is the maximum specced internal operating temperature of that PSU. Unfortunately, PSUs realistically heat up inside to 50ºC or even 60ºC internally with these higher-performance multi-core components. It is at those elevated temperatures that the cheapie PSUs choke (*wraps hands around neck and throat*) themselves out (as it happens in the case of the aforementioned Thermaltake unit) - or worse, slowly poison (kill) some of the critical components with out-of-spec voltages and ripple even if they themselves don't croak, or (worst of all) explode (literally) into flames.
The pudding on this cake is its standing on the PSU quality tier list: It is rated on the next-to-worst tier, suitable only for very cheap PCs with only integrated on-CPU graphics. That's just barely above "garbage" or "landfill" quality - the tier that is potentially dangerous.
Why would you spend nearly $700 on the CPU and GPU but only $58 on the PSU? That's penny-wise and pound-foolish. As it stands, that $58 PSU is just suitable if you're only going to spend $150 on both the CPU and GPU combined (which means a quad-core or weaker CPU and only an integrated graphics processor rather than a discrete GPU). Even a decent 600W PSU costs more than $75, while real quality PSUs cost at least $100.
This planned build is the computing analogy to a car that had all of the high-performance racing-class components but equipped with only a three-speed automatic transmission from a 1980s sedan.