
Per Berntsen
Community Expert
Per Berntsen
Community Expert
Activity
May 15, 2025
I'm getting the wrong color on the software when using the detachable monitor
when I use 2 monitors at the same time, it's normal, but when I switch to using only a detachable monitor, the color on the LRC software is wrong
By @rogelio_2096
Your screenshot shows to different applications – Photoshop and Windows Photos.
Are they on the same monitor?
It would be best to see a screenshots of Photoshop on the different monitors.
When posting screenshots, please do not attach them, use the Insert Photos button in the toolbar to insert them directly in your post.
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May 11, 2025
05:43 AM
This is the Secondary Display window (which is meant to be used on a second monitor) displaying on top of the main window.
The shortcut to show or hide it is F11. You can also go to Window > Secondary display.
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Community Expert
in Lightroom ecosystem (Cloud-based) Discussions
May 09, 2025
01:37 AM
May 09, 2025
01:37 AM
Please tell use which Lightroom you are using.
Is it the cloud version (called "Lightroom") or is it Lightroom Classic?
A moderator can then move your post to the correct forum.
You have posted in "Using the community" which is for forum issues.
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Community Expert
in Photoshop ecosystem Discussions
May 07, 2025
01:57 PM
2 Upvotes
May 07, 2025
01:57 PM
2 Upvotes
Photoshop displays the uncompressed file size, based on pixel dimensions, bit depth, and number of channels.
If this is a format that uses compression, the file size on disk will be smaller.
10 MB vs. 1.5 MB suggests that you are saving a jpg.
You may find this article useful: File formats
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May 06, 2025
08:27 AM
4 Upvotes
I take it that you're talking about the grid cell label color.
You can change the tint from the default 20% to 50% in the Library view options dialog. Press Ctrl (Cmd) + J to open it.
You can't adjust individual colors – it will affect all of them.
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May 06, 2025
04:31 AM
I'm not a Mac user, so I can't comment on this.
But I found this thread that might be helpful.
https://community.adobe.com/t5/camera-raw-discussions/can-t-see-my-rw2-raw-files-in-preview-finder-panasonic-lumix-s5m2x/td-p/14346802
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May 02, 2025
01:57 AM
1 Upvote
I only suggest that I have used auto adjustments for color and levels as these adjustments would be independent of anything my monitor is displaying. In fact using those auto levels doesn't change the levels in any substantial way.
By @Randy Triplett
I'm not sure what you mean by this, but any adjustments you do are baked into the image – the pixels are changed permanently. So the adjustments are not independent of what you see on the monitor.
If using Auto levels doesn't change the image, it means that there is nothing to adjust, the image already conforms with the Auto levels default settings.
I do take your point that .jpg isn't the best for editing and I will try another file type, but I still don't understand how these changes would affect my printer's output insofar as printing too dark.
Using a different file type will not make the prints brighter – this is about image quality.
Jpg is the worst possible format to use for editing.
If you want brighter prints, you have to reduce monitor brightness, and then re-edit your images.
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May 01, 2025
03:45 PM
Works fine for me with Camera Raw 17.3 on Windows 10. I can even move it to a different monitor.
But it cannot be undocked in the Camera Raw filter.
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Community Expert
in Photoshop ecosystem Discussions
May 01, 2025
03:15 PM
2 Upvotes
May 01, 2025
03:15 PM
2 Upvotes
Your color settings are fine.
But you will of course have to re-edit your images after decreasing monitor brightness.
They will now be too dark, and you have to brighten them.
Instead of using Auto color and levels, I suggest using adjustment layers, or use the Camera raw filter on a copy of the background layer as a smart object – especially if you have scanned in 8-bit, and also if your scans are jpgs.
The jpg format is not intended for editing – it's a final format. Every time you save the image, the quality will be reduced because of the aggressive and destructive compression. If you do lots of edits and saves on a jpg, it will begin to disintegrate, and you may end up with unacceptable quality.
For best results, scan 16-bit tiffs. When you have finished editing, convert a copy of the file to 8-bit for printing.
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Community Expert
in Photoshop ecosystem Discussions
May 01, 2025
02:15 PM
2 Upvotes
May 01, 2025
02:15 PM
2 Upvotes
If you get a dialog about the embedded profile not matching the working space when opening an image, choose the embedded profile. The profile doesn't have to be the same as the working space, which is a fallback if the image is untagged (does not have an embedded profile).
To stop this dialog from appearing, go to Edit > Color settings, and set Color management policies up like in the screenshot below, which is from CS6.
Make sure that Ask when opening is unchecked for Profile mismatches.
The recommended procedure for printing is to let Photoshop manage colors, which requires color management in the printer driver to be turned off. Everything seems to be set up correctly in your screenshot, but it seems that you have converted the image to Epson sRGB. There is no need to do this, just leave the image in whatever color space it had initially. Also make sure that you're using the recommended (by Ilford) paper setting in the printer driver, and that
you are using the correct printing profile for the paper/printer combination you're using.
If printed colors are correct, but the print is too dark, your monitor is most likely too bright.
Adjust the brightness to match the print.
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May 01, 2025
09:34 AM
1 Upvote
Without seeing screenshots and having no information about your friend's computer and phone/other devices, hard to tell.
Most phones do not use color management, and can not be expected to display correct colors.
iPhones are supposed to be color managed, but I have no experience with them.
But the first thing I would advise your friend to do is to calibrate her monitor.
I get the impression that this is a Windows laptop, which usually comes with a monitor profile created by the manufacturer. These profiles are very often defective out of the box, and might also be installed by a Windows update.
Dell and Asus (and others) are notorious for delivering bad profiles.
To determine if the monitor profile is the culprit, see this post:
https://community.adobe.com/t5/lightroom-classic-discussions/i-cannot-see-thumbnails-and-images/m-p/15298760#M403136
we have tried exporting them in both ProPhoto RGB and sRGB IEC61966-2.1. But nothing is making a difference.
If you view a ProPhoto image in an application without color management, it will usually display dark, desaturated, and with a greenish cast. sRGB is the safe choice.
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Apr 30, 2025
02:49 PM
1 Upvote
I opened your screenshot in PS, and went to Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp mask.
Maybe this will improve readability when printed.
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Apr 30, 2025
02:05 PM
The most common cause of thumbnails not displaying is a defective or incompatible monitor profile.
As troubleshooting, and as a possible temporary fix, try setting the monitor profile to sRGB. If you have a wide gamut monitor, use Adobe RGB instead.
With LrC closed, press the Windows key + R, then type colorcpl in the box. This will open the Color management dialog.
Add the sRGB (or Adobe RGB) profile, and set it as default.
If this fixes the issue, you should ideally calibrate your monitor with a hardware calibrator.
This will also create and install a custom monitor profile that will be more accurate than sRGB or Adobe RGB.
If changing the monitor profile doesn't help, you may have a corrupted preview cache, and the fix is to delete it.
With LrC closed, use the File explorer to go to the folder that contains your Lightroom catalog.
If you don't know where the folder is, go to Edit > Catalog settings > General, and click the Show button in the top right corner.
Delete the folder whose name ends with Previews.lrdata. Do not delete anything else.
The previews will rebuild as you browse folders in Library.
If this doesn't help either, please go to Help > System info in LrC, click the Copy button, and paste in a new reply.
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Apr 29, 2025
11:58 PM
Point Curve
Hello, I'm on Lightroom Classic and the histogram is no longer displayed in the background of the point curve. I couldn't find any way to restore it. Thank you for your help.
By @supercell_2910
Try resetting the preferences. Method 3 described here is the easiest.
https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/reset-preferences.html
If that doesn't fix the issue, go to Help > System info in LrC, click the Copy button and paste in a new reply.
You have posted in the Lightroom cloud forum, a moderator will move this thread to the Lightroom Classic forum.
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Apr 27, 2025
01:01 PM
1 Upvote
It's a bug in Photoshop.
See https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-bugs/p-photoshop-2025-v26-6-bug-black-document-window/idi-p/15286498#M862617
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Apr 25, 2025
01:08 PM
Please provide a detailed description of the problem.
If there are error messages, please quote them in full.
If you post screenshots, do not attach them, use the Insert Photos button in the toolbar to embed them in your post.
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Apr 25, 2025
12:34 PM
The D850 requires Lightroom 6.13 or later, so if you have version 6.0, it wont work.
(see https://helpx.adobe.com/camera-raw/kb/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html)
You can download the final release of LR 6 – version 6.14 – here:
https://web.archive.org/web/20231220005239mp_/https://prdl-download.adobe.com/Lightroom/60BA1251F1BC48B8B82B1B63AE8E620E/1552643270580/Lightroom_6_LS11.exe
The page might load slowly, so be patient.
Like @KR Seals I have used several different Nikon cameras over the years with Lightroom with excellent results.
Starting with a D300 and LR 2, now I use a Z7 with Lightroom Classic.
And yes, Lightroom has come a long way since version 6. There are loads of new and very useful features in LrC.
Masking, as well as other things.
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Apr 25, 2025
09:17 AM
Using the command Open as smart object in Photoshop from LrC works for me with raw files, as well as for tiffs.
When the image opens in Photoshop, double-click the smart object thumbnail in the Layers panel.
This will launch the ACR plugin (not the ACR filter).
There is no .exe file for ACR – it's a plugin that can be hosted by Photoshop and Bridge.
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Apr 23, 2025
04:15 AM
This is the same issue as in this thread:
https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-bugs/p-color-distortion-when-opening-images-saved-from-fb-in-photoshop-26-5/idc-p/15276192#M121210
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Apr 22, 2025
01:50 PM
The preview cache (Library previews folder) has to be in the same folder as the catalog.
If it was accidentally moved to a different location, LrC would recreate it.
I suspect that your issue is caused by a corrupted preview cache, try deleting it.
Close LrC, then use the File Explorer to go to the folder that contains your catalog.
Delete the folder whose name ends with Previews.lrdata. Do not delete anything else.
The previews will be recreated as you browse folders in Library.
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Apr 22, 2025
12:52 PM
2 Upvotes
CPU is Intel(R) UHD Graphics 770
Actually that is the integrated video controll within your CPU.
Graphics card is NVDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti
And from your GPU, I assume this is a desktop computer or perhaps a workstation. As such, the integrated video controller probably has no influence into your LrC. Had this been a laptop, perhaps a conflict could occur, and perhaps deactivating the integrated video controller driver would help, but that is rare.
By @GoldingD
I had this happen on a new desktop computer, and disabling the integrated GPU fixed it.
@jasonw2420467
Open the Windows Device manager, right click the UHD Graphics and choose Disable device.
Relaunch LrC if it's running. Does that fix the issue?
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Apr 21, 2025
07:39 AM
It slipped my mind that DeNoise in LrC now supports non-raw (linear) DNG files.
Not all scanner software can create DNG files, but the professional version of VueScan, which supports the vast majority of scanners, can do it.
But the DNG file will be a raw scan of the original, so there will be no conversion to positive when scanning negatives.
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Apr 21, 2025
07:05 AM
1 Upvote
My suggested workflow is this, with LrC as the main editor.
First of all, open the scan in PS, remove dust and scratches and crop (if necessary). If this is a scan of a black & white negative, invert it to positive before retouching and cropping. If it's a scan of a color negative that you plan to convert with the Negative Lab Pro plugin for LrC, do retouching later, the orange mask makes it very difficult.
Save and close the file, then import it in LrC and edit to your liking. Do not apply any sharpening.
For noise reduction, press Control + E (edit in Photoshop) and choose Edit a copy with Lightroom adjustments. If you choose Edit Original, your LrC edits will not be visible in PS. You really want to see them, because some edits, like Clarity and Dehaze will enhance noise.
In PS, create a copy of the background layer (name it Noise reduction), then run Topaz Denoise on the new layer. Use a little stronger noise reduction than what you think is required, then reduce the layer opacity to fine tune. If you want to sharpen the image, create a copy of the Noise reduction layer, name it Sharpening, and run Topaz sharpening on it. Again, oversharpen a bit, and reduce the layer opacity afterwards. Remember to view the image at 100% when doing noise reduction and sharpening. When you save and close the file, it will automatically appear in LrC.
The advantage of doing noise reduction and sharpening on layers is that you can always go back and change the opacity of the layers to reduce or increase the effect, and also use a layer mask. You can of course use the Topaz plugins from LrC, but you will not be able to do any fine tuning afterwards.
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Apr 21, 2025
02:48 AM
1 Upvote
Pressing Z will toggle Fit view and the previous view.
There's a list of shortcuts here: https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/keyboard-shortcuts.html
It lists the Z shortcut under Keys for working in the Develop module, but as far as I can tell, it works everywhere.
You can also press the spacebar, but it doesn't work in Masking.
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Apr 20, 2025
01:49 PM
1) Denoise only works with raw files, at least for the time being.
You can use manual noise reduction in LrC (Luminance) or the Reduce noise filter in Photoshop.
Topaz Denoise will give you better results than either.
2) Do noise reduction before any sharpening.
Topaz Denoise (standalone, not Photo AI) also has options for sharpening.
3) 35mm scans tend to not respond well to sharpening, in my experience it very often it makes them look worse.
So sharpen conservatively, if at all.
I would not use any sharpening at all in LrC, possibly after noise reduction, and preferably using Topaz Sharpen AI or Photo AI.
And I would not send a jpg to Photoshop or Topaz for further editing, use Edit in from LrC.
Make sure to work with tiffs all the way. Jpg is a final format, and not meant to be edited.
4) I agree with @KR Seals in that Negative Lab Pro does an excellent job of converting color negatives to positive.
Version 3.1 (currently in beta) is also supposed to do a very good job with restoring colors from faded and miscolored slides.
Some other advice –
Always scan in 16-bit (48-bit color)
Rather than using Edit in Topaz from LrC, use edit in Photoshop instead, and use the Topaz plugin in PS. Then do noise reduction and sharpening on copies of the Background layer. This will allow you to overdo the noise reduction and sharpening a bit, and you can fine tune the effect by reducing the opacity on the layers. Always view the image at 100% when doing noise reduction and sharpening
Retouching (removing dust and scratches) is best done in Photoshop. It is quite awkward to do in LrC, and it will slow down to a crawl after a while. I always open scans in PS before importing to LrC for retouching and cropping. (the latter is almost impossible to do accurately in LrC)
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Apr 20, 2025
07:33 AM
1 Upvote
The noise reduction and sharpening are settings from the camera.
Digital cameras have always written camera settings to raw files, using proprietary code that only the camera manufacturers' own raw converters could understand – like Nikon's NX Studio. LrC does not understand this code and ignores it.
The Nikon Z cameras were the first to write camera settings in XMP, which LrC understands and honors.
You can stop this from happening by going to Edit > Preferences > Presets, and set the Raw default for the Z9 to Adobe Default. This will use Adobe's default sharpening, and no other sliders will be touched.
You can also create your own Develop preset with settings of your choice, and have it applied on import.
See https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/raw-defaults.html
Another approach is to zero out / neutralize all settings in the camera (you might have to create a custom Picture style), and set the Raw default in LrC to Camera settings.
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Apr 19, 2025
04:27 AM
So did you install the Studio driver?
Nvidia released a new driver three days ago – https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/drivers/details/243339/
Please post a screenshot of the Devices tab of the Color management dialog, like my screenshot here.
I also notice that LrC is installed to your G drive. If you're doing this to save space on C, you're only saving around 3.4 GB.
How much free space do you have on C, and what's the capacity of the drive?
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Apr 18, 2025
10:59 AM
The Z9 should produce files with excellent quality.
I have the Z7 which I'm very pleased with, and the Z9 should perform even better.
Would you mind sharing some sample raw files, so we could examine them?
They will probably be too large to attach (max size is 47 MB), so use Dropbox or some other file sharing service and post the link here.
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Apr 17, 2025
03:14 AM
The edits for your 20,000 photos are in the catalog, so you need to point LrC to the new location of the files.
If you create a new catalog and import the photos, you will have to edit them again.
The only fix for this is to reconnect the photos with your current catalog.
https://www.lightroomqueen.com/lightroom-photos-missing-fix/
Is your F drive an external drive?
If so, before doing anything, assign it a drive letter towards the end of the alphabet, like X or Z.
This will prevent the drive letter from changing in the future.
Let's say that your F drive is not connected, and you connect a different drive. Windows will assign it the first available letter in the alphabet. If this letter is F, and you then connect the drive with the Photos, it will be assigned G, and Lrc will report all your photos as missing.
To change the drive letter, open the File explorer, right click This PC, then choose Manage.
Click Disk Management on the left.
Right click the F drive, and choose Change drive letter and paths.
Click Change in the dialog that appears, choose the new drive letter and click OK.
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Community Expert
in Photoshop ecosystem Discussions
Apr 16, 2025
09:14 AM
2 Upvotes
Apr 16, 2025
09:14 AM
2 Upvotes
The current version of the DNG converter will not be able to convert raw files from these unsupported cameras.
When support for these cameras is added in Camera Raw and Lightroom through an update, the DNG converter will also receive an update.
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