K´mo
Contributor
K´mo
Contributor
Activity
Aug 31, 2017
10:38 PM
You can use Lens blur for that. You have to make a depth map for that or you can even get that from 3D software. Check Photoshop help for details.
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Jul 11, 2017
10:39 PM
4 Upvotes
The good old trick used when scanning magazines and papers could help here, too. You have to put black paper behind the paper. That minimizes the see-through effect.
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Jul 07, 2017
02:58 AM
2 Upvotes
Looks like you have to do the work again, if you did not make any other saves before an action. Usually it's smart to save the workfiles as psd so you can edit it later. So you just open from lightroom, edit and the only save was with your action? Well, the second time it will be faster to edit
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Jul 05, 2017
04:41 AM
Illustrator should handle your dimensions in cm's. You can work in actual size and edit first in photoshop with decent quality (72-100 ppi is ok), then place that image in illustrator and finish your job there.
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Jun 20, 2017
10:04 PM
You have clicked the mask button. Therefore you have the vector mask and maybe it is still active. You can still stroke it if you have targeted something that you can draw.
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Jun 19, 2017
11:41 PM
You are editing a vector mask. It's not a pixel mask so you can't stroke there. You need to have pixel layer or mask and path selected. You may have to copy the path from vector mask, activate pixel layer and then you can make a stroke.
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Jun 16, 2017
04:56 AM
2 Upvotes
This would be quite easy. But I suspect that you are going to use someone else's work without permission. You could ask desiger if you could use that and get quality file from him/her.
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Jun 06, 2017
05:21 AM
for brush size it's ctrl + alt + drag. I'm not sure which is called option so it might be the same as davecm told.
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May 31, 2017
02:03 AM
2 Upvotes
Does it make difference if you set the view to 100%? Is the image then similar in PS as in the jpg?
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May 18, 2017
12:13 AM
1 Upvote
You could use History palette and make snapshots when you want. Then it's easy to just click and check before and after. Snapshots will not be saved so you lose them if you close the document.
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May 16, 2017
09:59 PM
Did you click on the picture with that brush? Check your painting color, brush blending mode and opacity.
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May 03, 2017
10:47 AM
1 Upvote
Are you intending to print with Spot Colors? and yes , i'm intending to print with spot colors ____ There is no way anybody prints with so many spot colors that normal photograph has. You mentioned earlier that there is more than 256 colors and you would want to print them separately with spot colors?? But if you want to use few spot colors and mix new colors from them, you need to do color separation. Like the you do CMYK-colors which is really easy. But for use of different spot colors you need to make a new color channel for each of them. What exactly is your goal here?
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May 03, 2017
12:58 AM
2 Upvotes
Is your image still in 16 bit when you apply the blur? You can try adding some noise to those areas (on separate layer monochrome noise with blendin mode: soft light) What does it look like if you look at those areas on 100% view? Could it be issue with rendering on screen with other zoom values?
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May 01, 2017
10:52 PM
2 Upvotes
Ok, maybe you want something like this: I made a levels-layer and set the blending mode to multiply. Then used advanced blendind: So in Underlying layer hold alt and move the dark slider's half way up to right. This sets that effect is more on highlights and fades to blacks. After that adjust layers white output slider to left as in first picture. Then you can mask this so that cityscape stays as it is.
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May 01, 2017
09:52 PM
1 Upvote
Go to upper menu. Select Window - Workspace and Essentials is default. BTW you can save your own workspaces here. Set the workspace as you like it to be and in the same place: New workspace...
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May 01, 2017
09:49 PM
As you are working with curves: Pull the upper right corner dot down.
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Apr 28, 2017
09:46 AM
1 Upvote
In composites it is important that the original images are on same perspective. Now, if you have photographed front element too close, it may be impossible to get it work with the new background naturally. It depends of the object of course how much it is disturbing. I think you may have to take another shot of the foreground object.
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Apr 27, 2017
04:31 AM
1 Upvote
Your opacity is 0, adjust it higher.
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Apr 21, 2017
12:02 PM
I feel you. But it could happen by accident or something. And it's not rare if I think all the images that clients have sent me for advertising or something.. And sometimes you get untagged images from image banks.
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Apr 21, 2017
10:55 AM
I suspect that it happens when there is no color profile tagged in file and it differs from working profile and the warning is turned off. Then PS assignes working profile to image which is made with another profile. Please check policies for "profile mismatches" and "missing profiles". I'd check also the pasting. They are all good to be checked.
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Apr 13, 2017
10:14 AM
Also very effective way to avoid this is to export pdf to older version. Some older RIP's can't handle the transparency right, specially with spot colors. Try version 1.3, that should work as it flattens the transparency (with converting spot color to process colors as I said earlier). I'm quite sure that this problem is caused by the use of extra color channel and transparency in pdf. And the printer's software can't handle them right. Sometimes there can be color shifts if there is RGB image with transparency over CMYK elements, if the color management isn't done correctly, but the white box is really rare.
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Apr 13, 2017
05:20 AM
1 Upvote
Maybe the printer has some problems with your spot-channel (that pantone color). Try to convert all spots to process when you export the pdf from inDesign. It's in [Output] -> Ink Manager. Other workaround would be that you make standard color-layer in photoshop instead of extra color channel.
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Apr 13, 2017
02:47 AM
To get close to the sample image: Make levels layer with values: R output 56 and 187, G output 71 and 204, B output 94 and 186. Then make another Levels layer between the image and another levels so you can adjust the clipping on whites and blacks easily. Depending the image you might need to adjust also the contrast in middle tones.
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Apr 11, 2017
09:27 AM
I guess that Finn knows a Finn
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Apr 11, 2017
07:17 AM
I think that alignment is important to get eyes, nose and mouth aligned properly. Did you try auto align layers? This is something that I've been also thinking sometimes but never did it. So your results are interesting. You also could try different stacking modes. This really is something I am not very familiar with. If I had suitable collection of faces, I could try different solutions. Off topic: Are you a finn? Your nickname sounds like it.
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Apr 11, 2017
04:10 AM
Take a look at this: Image stacks in Adobe Photoshop I'm not sure if this is going to work, but I would start with this.
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Apr 11, 2017
03:53 AM
Here is average female and male faces:
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Apr 11, 2017
03:48 AM
Here is an interesting link to see how it would look like: Face Research ⇒ Demos ⇒ Make An Average If there is enough photos, I'd try some stacking process (with median stack).
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Apr 09, 2017
04:24 AM
2 Upvotes
Why not. First shot is where there is background gradient in Difference mode. Second picture with black layer with new mask made with duplicating red channel and with very little levels. There is white background under. Third image is on a random photo.
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Apr 09, 2017
01:58 AM
I would try to regenerate the gradient which is the background here on a new layer above this picture. Then change that layer's blending mode to Difference. The background should now look black and the smoke and wolf white. Then go to channels and duplicate any of the color channels (it's ok here since it is grayscale image). After that make another new layer and fill it with black and make mask with recently duplicated channel. If you managed to make the gradient good enough, you should now have just the image when you hide other layers. Maybe some tweaking with levels is needed on the mask.
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