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I am new to Lightroom Classic. Is there a place where I can read about the inner working of each feature of the Basic and the Detail pannel, and what are the trade-off (what I gain and what I lose when I use each ruler).
For instance, I noticed that in some pictures I can obtain nicer colors by very slightly moving the Blacks ruler to the left, or by moving the Dehaze ruler even more slightly to the right. Results are often equal to my eye. What each of the two exactly do? I mean, I know de-haze takes the haze out. But it has an effect on any photo, even without haze. What is it?
Or what do I gain or lose when I use each of the rulers for de-noising a picture taken with high ISO.
These are just examples. As I try to understand why some pragmatic approaches work, I seldom find the answer in Adobe's help. Any other resource I can use?
Thanks
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There are plenty of tutorials on these things on the internet. Here's one. You can search for others.
Basically, in my opinion, there are many ways in Lightroom Classic to get an almost identical effect. If you can't see the difference, then it doesn't matter which one you use.
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I understand DJ, and I can be a very empirical person too. But if I can understand the theory behind, it is better.
Just for the small story I am retiring soon, after a long and busy profesional life that has nothing to do with photography. I started with this hobby with the intention to go as deep as I can, both in skills and knowledge. Much better than putting on my pajamas and look at TV for the next 30 years. If anybody can point me to resources I can use to go deeper in a structured manner, it will be much appreciated. In whichever direction, but deeper.
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Start out using the basic adjustments from the top, down to Blacks.
If you can't achieve what you want with these sliders, try to use one or more of the adjustments under Presence in addition.
All these adjustments are in the Basic panel.
The Detail panel is for sharpening and noise reduction.
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Thank you Per, this helps.
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Some of my web bookmarks- (but maybe not the "inner workings" )
Lightroom Classic Training Videos
Julieanne Kost's Blog | Adobe Lightroom Classic
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Here's an article I wrote on the Basic Panel Tone control adjustment, which should be helpful
https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/tone-control-adjustment.html
Here's a YouTube video search on the LrC Detail panel controls.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Lightroom+Sharpening+%26+Noise+Reduction+Tutorial+
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One of the best authors I have encountered who offers the kind of in-depth explanation I suspect you are seeking is Martin Evening. Unfortunately the most recent Lightroom book available was published 2 years ago and Lightroom has evolved since then. Much of the underlying theory behind Martin's detailed explanations still applies though.
See what you think: https://www.amazon.com.au/Adobe-Photoshop-Lightroom-Classic-Book/dp/0135447399/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&...
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Fortunately, the excellent section of Martin Evening’s book explaning the Sharpening settings is available as a free PDF excerpt. It’s nice that it’s still online, because it’s one of the best explanations out there:
http://www.photoshopforphotographers.com/pscs4/downloads/Cameraraw-sharpening.pdf
Another valuable reference is Victoria Bampton’s book Adobe Lightroom Classic — The Missing FAQ. I just looked at the Basic panel section and it’s very good. Her website is also a great resource.
Quick summary of the rest:
Texture, Clarity, and Sharpness all have to do with local contrast. Much of the difference between them is in what level of detail they address, or what frequency range if you think in terms of frequency separation sharpening:
Many experts work with sharpening and noise reduction at the same time.
Dehaze is a completely different thing. While at first glance it looks like a contrast/saturation adjustment, Julianne Kost of Adobe says “The Dehaze technology is based on a physical model of how light is transmitted, and it tries to estimate light that is lost due to absorption and scattering through the atmosphere.” It is best used sparingly, not as a substitute for properly adjusting contrast with the other options.