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I'll go ahead and assume you've encoding fully to the DVD-Video MPEG specs, and have not gone over the max bitrate. That would also cause similar lock-up and freeze errors on some DVD players.
I see some common problems (and some common myths) being discussed here.
Shopping by "brand name" is probably the first problem. Most brands buy their discs from secondary bulk disc manufacturers, such as Ritek and CMC, or even cheap Chinese operations. The quality on these can range quite a bit, and most discs are not very reliable. Even well-respected brand names like JVC, TDK, Maxell and Panasonic have been known to peddle crap under their labels.
Brands like HP, Memorex, TDK -- even generic brands like Staples or Office Depot! --- they're often caught using the same discs from Ritek or CMC. For example, to say HP is better than TDK would be an impossible statement -- the discs are the same (CMC Magnetics discs). Their unreliable nature is how some of these myths catch on. A person has a good experience with a few hundred HP discs, and a bad one with a single spindle of TDK discs. But when the discs are the same, a few months later, that situation could be entirely reversed!
The best recordable disc for a professional videographer to use is a Verbatim DVD-R made in Taiwan or India (not UAE). Verbatim's metal AZO has a high reflectivity, DVD-R is the most compatible format, and the Mitsubishi discs have great quality control. Taiyo Yuden makes a good second choice. For a list of reliable places to buy these media, see http://www.digitalfaq.com/reviews/buy-blank-discs.htm
Burners wear out over time, and some burners were just not made very good. LG and Philips drives are most commonly associated with these kinds of problems, especially the laptop drives.
Burning at the slowest possible speed is also a myth, and a mistake. Burners and discs are attuned to certain speeds. On a 16x disc, for example, you'd never want to burn slower than 8x or 12x off a computer. A 1x or 2x burn would probably be worse than a 16x or 18x burn on the same disc -- assuming the burner even lets you go that low. Most modern burners have gotten smart about this, preventing you from doing it.
Good burning software -- namely ImgBurn -- is also a good idea.
For more information on this topic, see the blank DVD media guides and information at:
- http://www.digitalfaq.com/reviews/dvd-media.htm
- http://www.digitalfaq.com/guides/media
- http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/forumdisplay.php/blank-media-19.html
Do some reading there, to learn all the in's and out's of blank discs, burning, and having a good experience. As a video or photo professional, ths information is incredibly important. Nothing pisses off a customer more than a disc that does not work. They get easily aggravated sometimes, and it's best to avoid that problem altogether!
Good luck on your future projects. 
Ritek has always been an unreliable media. RITEKG01 DVD-R, G02, G03, G04, G05, etc -- the discs choked more often in players and readers, the reflectivity of them was terrible, compared to TY or Verbatim/MCC/MKM discs. Even TY doesn't seem to have as good a reflectivity as the Verbatim media does.
The Ritek discs, including the G04 you mention, were well-known for bad spots, often with visibly damaged dyes. The dark purple organics just weren't very good. G03 had some decent quality control for a short while there, but G04 was getting bad reviews from the earliest runs. I have some of the earliest test batches, the purple-topped ones that cloned the look of Pioneer DVD-R, and those are the only ones that ever worked reliably. I often think those were cherry-picked for reviewers, some Grade A extra high-QC samples. The bulk-bought spindles were always pretty dismal, much higher coaster count than competing manufacturers of the time: Prodisc, TDK, Verbatim/MCC, Pioneer/PVC, MBI, Maxell.
There are players out there which fail, even on presses, if the bitrate is too high -- sometimes even if it's within DVD-Video specs. At very least, we have to be sure that our data is being written to a disc properly, and that includes adhering to the DVD-Video encoding and authoring specs. If you stray too far from thoses, then it won't matter if your DVD-Video is on a DVD press, a DVD-R burn or a pancake -- the machine will refuse to play it. And DVD-Video is a content structure, not a disc type. A DVD-R is a DVD-R, not a DVD-ROM. DVD+R can be booktyped to the DVD-ROM part spec, but not DVD-R. It also doesn't carry the DVD-Video logo because it's not being presented as a "DVD-Video recordable", but simply by its DVD-R spec, which is good DVD-Video, DVD-Audio and DVD-ROM content structures.
Given that the DVD Forum oversees DVD-R/DVD-RW, I'm under the impression that recordable media compatilibity has more or less been forced in the past number of years. It's the RW Alliance's DVD+R/DVD+RW that's left to fend for itself, not being part of the DVD Forum or the various official DVD book specs.
Anyway ..... I think this got way more complicated than the original post asked for.
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