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stevem38895022
Community Beginner
stevem38895022
Community Beginner
Activity
Jul 18, 2023
06:24 PM
Thank your for the information. I have never used Lightroom Mobile and with all of the comments, concerns and potential limitations, I will go with plan B and take a laptop with LR installed. It will put me in a familar workspace and cover all my requirements although in a larger physical package. I will be on a cruise so the original question was based more around reducing the amount of technology I will be carrying.
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Jul 17, 2023
05:45 PM
I have an overseas trip planned with limited to no internet coverage. My plan is to fit a high capacity microSD card in my Samsung tablet. My planned workflow is:- 1/. Create Lightroom catalog on microSD card 2/. Copy photos from SD card to microSD card daily 3/. Use Lightroom mobile to organise, sort and edit (lightly) 4/. On return home, extract microSD card or copy catalog (and files) to desktop and merge with the desktop Lightroom catalog, with all edits intact Is this workable or do I need to sync through the cloud? Potentially several thousand images. Thanks in Advance
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Feb 05, 2022
12:10 AM
Thanks, the more I think about, the easist way is to create a PSD original at A1. Then if someone want A3 for instance, then scale within Photoshop, PSD to PSD, then export as JPG
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Feb 04, 2022
09:34 PM
Thank you. It is easier to make one image and resize/rescale after for printing, rather than three different ones so I will go with that. Steve
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Feb 04, 2022
05:10 PM
I have an opportunity to sell some photos (for beer money only). I am using a standard presentation with a boxed image area with image clipped to the box and a Text label below. There is sufficient resolution to print at A3 poster size. Basically, I am asking the customer what size print they want and creating a blank template to that size, bringing the image across and then transforming the image to suit the boxed area. So for an A4 image, I create a blank A4 canvas, create a boxed area and drag image in and adjust. similarly for an A2 and A3, I create blank canvasses of that size and repeat as above. So in each case the image is scaled to suit the box size. My question is this: Can I create an A3 template and simply advise the customer to "print at A4" for instance? Is there a difference between tranfroming the image in Photoshop to A4 size and scaling the image to A4 at the print stage? This second point is simply "shrink to fit" or equivalent, I assume. Thanks Steve
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Dec 02, 2021
09:57 PM
Hi John, Thanks for the response, I was using the 10x8 preset. What threw me was that I was preparing template for collages in different print sizes. I knew that particular image was 14x11 so when I went to crop it down to 10x8 so I could rearrange the inserts, it showed the same size and I went huh ?
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Dec 02, 2021
08:45 PM
I have a created a composite image which both image size and canvas size report as 14x11 inches at 300dpi. However, when I lay an 10x8 inch crop box over the top it exactly matches the image borders indicating the image is 10x8 not 14x11. This doesn't make sense to me !
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Apr 12, 2020
11:24 PM
Planning a trip with DSLR and Lightroom Mobile on Samsung tablet for filing, cataloguing and basic edits. I have done this previously with a laptop where at the end of the trip I can export the catalog to an external drive and then import into my master catalog on the desktop PC. How do I do this with Lightroom Mobile ? I know I can sync with the cloud (but never done it) and won't always have an internet connection. It is expected to be several thousand photos. I think my only option is to copy files to tablet and then copy back to an external drive and run Lightroom Mobile catalog on the external drive, assuming this is possible.
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Dec 08, 2017
01:19 PM
Thanks Rob, This is probably the closest I've got to what I had in mind and gives me another tool to try. Regards Steve
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Nov 17, 2017
01:23 PM
1 Upvote
Thanks Neil, Started with DFosse's tip and got a little closer, then used curves and saturation to get a bit closer. Not perfect but better. I can see why the professionals get the big bucks !. Still a bit galling (as an engineer) that I can't just do *something* to get from where I am to where I want to be but that's the way it is. It's still a little bit foreign to "do a bit here, a bit there until it looks right" - makes reproduciblity a bit tough. Anyway, thanks for the help - just need to work with the tools we have.
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Nov 16, 2017
02:11 PM
Hi Neil, It was not my intention to denigrate or demean the creative process. I have spent, literally, hours trying to get the colour where I want it and still end up with purple skies and yellow grass - this was the basis for my "trial and error" comment. A lot of guides refer to curves, hue & saturation etc adjustments but my (in)experience makes this difficult. What some consider as general knowledge, others do not, such as your comment about setting a permanent eyedropper. How do you do this ? I can certainly sample colours but I haven't been able to set a fixed reference point. What I thought were simple questions are proving unanswerable. I simply want to match the colours from the in-camera JPG algorithm across to the corresponding RAW file without impacting on the quality of the RAW file. Not so simple.
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Nov 15, 2017
09:07 PM
Is there a way to adjust an image by a specific RGB amount ? I want to, for instance, adjust the blue value by 5 units across the whole image. Most of the advice involves making a curves adjustment and checking the result but that is trial and error. Any other options ?
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Nov 14, 2017
01:05 PM
1 Upvote
Thanks Neil, You are on the same page as me, I want to keep the RAW as a base and process to JPEG only when I need to display or print. The method is "Color Matching" through the Adjustments menu and not a blend mode, at least not specifically on the JPG layer. It may be an informal blend carried out through the adjustment but I don't know how to confirm this. The RGB shift method is certainly worthwhile but I have to find a method on how to do this. I making a number of assumptions in doing this, such as the color shift is uniform across the image but essentially I want to pick a specific point on the image and move the RGB by a set amount it from, say, 134,84,57 to 139,82,51 and apply that shift over the whole image. And that's where I'm stuck, I can't find how to do it or, in fact, if it is even possible
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Nov 13, 2017
06:56 PM
Thanks, I read the article and the difference between scene-referred and out-referred is understood (mostly). JPG's are rendered in-camera and RAW's are rendered in Photoshop. The take away from the article is that working from the RAW file is far more preferable than using the JPG as it gives much more latitude for adjustment and correction (which is why I shoot in RAW+JPG). For my purposes the Jay Maisel article was they key point. He is so good at his job that "The JPEGs directly from his camera are often what he wants; in fact, much of the time he instructs his assistant to simply “match the JPEG” when he processes Raw files for printing" This is what I want to be able to do, at least in the first instance. I find the out of camera JPG pleasing and I want the RAW image to"match the JPG" as a starting point before looking at highlights, shadows etc which I can recover through ACR. From the same article "Jay now shoots both Raw and JPEG at the same time. While he almost always has the correct exposure, the advantages of working with the Raw file in sharpening, scaling, and detail are still very much worth the effort." The Color Matching I described above appears to meet my requirements in this regard. My concern is that it has a negative impact on picture quality (at least the 16 bit import from ACR).
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Nov 13, 2017
02:45 PM
As a general rule, in my opinion, in-camera JPG's look "better" than unprocessed RAW images due to the in-camera processing by the super-secret algorithm used by Canon etc. Colors tend to be brighter, more saturated and probably a bit more contrast. Theoretically, one can achieve the same result in ACR by tweaking the various settings. Provided one has the skills to do so which, unfortunately, I do not. One of the avenues I explored was offsetting the RGB values ie compare the RGB values for the same point and adjust the RAW file in CC by the difference. So I want to move,say, the red value from 125 to 135 etc. There does not appear to be any way to do this, especially globally across the whole image. Second option was to use color matching. I add the JPG as a layer into the RAW file (which I mean the RAW file is opened through ACR then opening CC without making adjustments). Use the JPG layer as source and RAW layer as target. This gets within a couple of points on the RGB which I can tweak with the intensity setting. My question is this, does this compromise the RAW file quality by using an 8 bit source into an 16 bit target ? Given the whole idea is to match the colors of the JPG in the higher quality RAW file. It appear as there is something in this as adding the RAW file as a layer in the JPG file and doing the color matching really messes it up. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
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