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R
RoyMa
Participant
January 25, 2019
Question

Fixing light leaks on color films scans - CS6

  • January 25, 2019
  • 1 reply
  • 8797 views

Hello,

I am new to this forum and would like to make clear up front that my PS knowledge is self taught and I am lacking in the basics,

so please explain in detail, because I really don't know much, but am eager to learn and develop my skills.

I am an analog photographer and my camera started to produce light leaked images lately, and wondering if you can instruct me on how to approach fixing this in Photoshop CS6.

I've tried looking for other discussions here and tutorials on the web, but couldn't find something that worked for me. So I will highly appreciate your help here.

Attached are few examples.

This topic has been closed for replies.

1 reply

L
Lumigraphics
Legend
January 25, 2019

You can try a couple of things.
A luminosity mask will let you target the most fogged areas. Add a black to white gradient adjustment layer set to Soft Light blending mode. You can also select the fogged area and adjust clarity, highlights, and dehaze using the Camera RAW filter.

R
RoyMaAuthor
Participant
January 26, 2019

Hi,

Thanks for your reply. Couple of questions though:

- Regarding luminosity mask: are you talking about the process of selecting the RGB channel and creating a curves adjustment layer?

If so, once I create the curves layer, how does that help me to fix the light leaked portion? All I seem to manage is darken or brighten the highlights of the entire image.

- And in regards to the gradient adjustment layer - this also seems to effect the entire image. Any tips on how to target the specific area?

Thanks!

D Fosse
Community Expert
D FosseCommunity Expert
Community Expert
January 26, 2019

The basic premise is very simple: if there is still information left in all color channels in the affected area, it can be recovered. If there isn't, you have to rebuild the data (which may be a lot of work).

The principle is this: Set up one (or more) adjustment layer(s) that fully correct the most affected area. Then mask this with a fully black mask, hiding the adjustment. Use a very soft brush at very low opacity, and gradually paint in the adjustment. Press X to go back if you overdo.

This takes time and patience to get a good result. There's no magic button.

I'd get a new camera, there are probably a lot sitting around. Me, for instance, I still have a Nikon F4 and F3, and a Mamiya RZ67, that I can't bring myself to throw in the garbage...

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