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You might like to go read https://community.adobe.com/t5/character-animator/keyboard-eyegaze-now-working/td-p/11713318 as well as it has similar issues (there are actually lots of threads on eyes).
First, it is important in rigging mode to go through all the layers of the eyes and make sure you have the right tags on the right layers. For example, your "left eye/eyeball" has "Left Pupil Range" and "Left Eye" tags on it. Remove both of those tags.
Your left and righ pupils have the "left pupil size" tag but not the "left pupil" tag. Put them both on the pupil. That tells CH that is the pupil, and the pupil size is to be taken from the pupil (which is normal, but you can do funky stuff sometimes).
Next, you need to set the pupil range - have far the pupil can move. Since your pupil is the same height as the eyeball, you cannot use the eyeball as the pupil range. What I recommend is to add another layer and call it "Right Pupil Range". I strongly recommend putting it just above "Right Pupil".
Then hide the layer (in Photoshop or CH) by turning off the eyeball. It will still have effect. I often set it semi-opaque so I can turn it on and still see the eye through the pupil range layer to size it correctly. This will define how far the pupil can move.
But, when you do this, the pupil will move over the skin! not a good look!
To fix this, there is a feature in the "Puppet" menu called "Create Clipping Mask". Select the Pupil layer and turn this on. You should see a little down arrow next to the pupil layer afterwards.
In your case you are not done however as the "eyeball" artwork actually includes the line around the eye and other bits. You can fiddle with the artwork to get it right if you want to.
Another approach not using the clipping mask is to arrange the artwork a little different. In the physical world, your skin is on top, then there is an opening in the skin that you can see the eye through. To mimic that, you would separate the eyeline, eyelids, etc but NOT the eye whites and move them above the pupil. Then the pupil layer comes next, then the eye whites layer. That way the pupil will be hidden by the skin and eyelids etc. You probably don't need the clipping mask if you do it this way, and you can use the eye whites layer as tthe pupil range (make it bigger than the opening). So you end up with
- face artwork with hole in it where the eye goes
- Left Eye
-- eye lid and eye line artwork
-- pupil artwork
-- eyewhite artwork, bigger than opening in face
Both ways work - just pick your preference. See that other thread for more info.
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