Adobe software for film scanning

[thomas kroghh29388914]

I'am buying a filmscanner and got recommended "SilverFast software" for the scanner. Does anyone know how to use Adobe programs for scanning films and negatives?

[Per Berntsen · Accepted solution]

Simply save the scans in the scanning software (Silverfast), then open them in Photoshop.

Photoshop used to have a plugin (TWAIN) that enabled scanning from within the program, but it's no longer available.

[JJMack]

Photoshop on Windows has WIA support. If You scanner has a WIA driver support you may be able to scan within Photoshop CC 2018 version 19.1.6.

How you scan would be for the type of film ie Color negative, Positive Slide, or  BW.

WIA Film Scanners | Microsoft Docs

I just have a all in one cheap printer/scanner.

[Per Berntsen]

As far as I can tell, WIA has no option for scanning film, and only produces 8-bit BMP files.

So the OP will have to use SilverFast, preferably scanning in16-bit, and saving as tiff.

[JJMack]

If the op is scanning small format film I think they would be better off using their DSLR.    To duplicate their film into a RAW digital image.  I have spent thousands of dollars on camera bodies, lenses and other equipment. With a good setup and light source I feel my equipment may do better than a consumer film scanner. Both solutions need to deal with dust, dirt and setup.

As you point out I see this for old Windows systems.

[Per Berntsen]

Scanning film with WIA doesn't work on Windows 7 either.

And, yes a good DSLR with a good macro lens could be an option, as long as the film is 35mm.

Reproducing 120 film and larger will be more tricky, since there are probably no ready made solutions for it.

I have used various film scanners over the years, but I've been thinking of getting a Film Digitizing Adapter Set for my NIkon camera.

I'm currently using an Imacon Flextight II for 35mm, but since it has a SCSI interface, each scan takes 15 minutes.

[JJMack]

There are film duplicators on Amazon the will do a good on small format film for under $200.  The most important thing is to have high quality film and handling it well.  Small damage and dirt and dust are major issues when it come to film that has not changed  on planet Earth. Mounted slides are even harder to copy because the are mounted in carboard cleaning is hard.  Even a 35 MM only duliplicator will be around $150 like a Nikon ES-2 adapter and film holder. I just let all my old 35MM slides RIP.... IMO scanning film is not easy.

Here a video the may be useful for some

[D Fosse]

Yes, very good JJ, but this is why I can't bear watching all these videos. Why do I have to sit through a 26-minute video when what I need can be explained in one? I have better things to do with my life.

Why is he spending five minutes explaining the written and enclosed user manual in the video? Just get the thing, open the box and figure it out in your own time.

Why do I have to sit and watch him trying to screw the adapter into the lens? That's another minute of my life I'll never get back.

Right. Sorry, everyone, just had to get that off my chest...that's thirty seconds reading this you'll never get back...

[JJMack]

You are not force to watch.  Others unlike you may prefer to watch to see if there may be some other information like how to process the Raw file created. All are free to exit the video at any point or never start it. It is not setup to autostart..... fast forward.....

[Stephen Marsh]

The most common 3rd party choices for film scanning software are either Silverfast or VueScan.

As for Adobe software, many shoot the negs with a duplicator or special backlit setup and DSLR and use ACR or Lightroom to process the raw camera file.

[JJMack]

Stephen_A_Marsh  wrote

many shoot the negs with a duplicator or special backlit setup and DSLR

I would think this may be better than a Film Scanner if you have a good DSLR and good macro lens, A cheap Duplicator RAW image may be a better option is what my gut tells me. A good scanner is $200+

[D Fosse]

An old enlarger can easily be repurposed to a repro stand by removing the enlarger head. That's what I did. Then you only need a light source with a piece of white translucent plastic over it, and you're good to go.

For Nikon users, the Micro-Nikkor 60mm/2.8 is a superb and underrated lens. It's not only razor sharp, but also flat-field and optimized for close ranges. It's the perfect lens to use for this.

I gave up on my Epson flatbed a long time ago. Not only is the effective resolution nowhere near the advertised and nominal one, but flatbeds in general are plagued with a particularly nasty form of chromatic aberration that can't easily be corrected. Look closer, and you have these red/cyan or yellow/blue fringes all over high-contrast transitions. They don't follow a normal radial pattern and so can't be removed in ACR/Lightroom, instead you have to correct manually all the way. It's a nightmare.

[thomas kroghh29388914]

Thank you for all the answers. It's so nice with a forum that's alive 😉

Can see that there are several ways that are being used. I think I buy a good film scanner and Silverfast software, and edit in Photoshop as Per Bernsen writes.