Participant

Answered

How to repair specific banding on a digital photo

Forum|Forum|7 years ago
December 8, 2018
6 replies
37148 views

Hey, this isn't the normal kind of color banding. We think it possibly has something to do high speed sync with the electronic shutter at 1/8000 shutter speed. It seems the electronic shutter at a high shutter speed in really bright conditions will make the banding. I wasn't aware that this was happening while taking the photos...and now I have these irreplaceable images from a vacation that are essentially ruined. I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced this or has been able to repair this somehow so that I might keep these images. I'm going to attach one of the images as an example.

Correct answer Norman Sanders

(Click on image to see @ 100%)

Change the mode to Lab Color

Choose the L channel

Filter > Blur >Surface Blur Radius 9. Threshold 15

Return mode to RGB

D

Donna5ECC

Participant

This is what happened when I tried this method - didn't work for these shots :((

davescm

Community Expert

Which method, there are two described in this thread?

Dave

G

Galini5FA7

Participant

Hi Dave,
I tried to use your high/low freq method but it doesnt seem to work.
is it the banding? or am i doing something wrong?
Really need your help here
thank you

Norman SandersCorrect answer

Legend

(Click on image to see @ 100%)

Change the mode to Lab Color

Choose the L channel

Filter > Blur >Surface Blur Radius 9. Threshold 15

Return mode to RGB

J

jdanek

Inspiring

( Filter > Surface Blur ) Nice! Worked great on the white hat, too.

davescm

Community Expert

You may be able to reduce the effect like this:

Make two copies of the image layer.

Name the lower "Low Frequency"

Name the upper "High Frequency"

Select the low frequency and apply a gaussian blur of around 6px

Select the high frequency layer and goto menu Image - Apply Image
Set the layer to use as "Low Frequency"
Set Blending mode to subtract
Scale 2

Offset 128

Click OK

Set High Frequency layer blending mode to Linear Light

Put the high frequency layer in a smart object and use High pass adjusting the radius to keep the contrast detail but remove the banding
Invert the Smart filter mask so all is black

Use a soft brush to paint on the mask until the banding goes

I added a masked copy of the original and lightly painted back in over any edge "ringing"

Not perfect, it has softened the skin, but IMO easier on the eye than the original banding

Dave

Daniel E Lane

Inspiring

Basically a frequency separation for fixing skin used to remove the banding. Not a bad idea there.

Semaphoric

Community Expert

Still trying to figure out what this flickering is. The obvious explanation is mains frequency. But:

Here the mains frequency is 50Hz, so that's 1/50th second per period. There are 8 horizontal bands, at 1/320th second. That doesn't add up.

However - the actual sensor scanning probably takes a lot longer than the nominal shutter speed. I suppose it has to, if the sensor is scanned line by line, and each line represents 1/320th second.

This is from https://digital-photography-school.com/understand-flash-sync-speed-so-you-dont-sink-your-photo-shoot/

On-camera flash (i.e. Speedlight)

Your on-camera flash won’t let you set a shutter speed higher than your sync speed. However, some on-camera flash systems have a setting for high speed sync. In other words you can set a faster shutter speed than the normal sync speed. This setting is useful if you’re using flash outdoors because sometimes 1/200s is too slow a shutter speed, and will result in overexposure on a very bright day even at f22.

High speed sync sends several pulses of lower intensity light as the curtains travel across the focal plane, instead of the usual big burst a studio flash makes. Using high speed sync is also useful in situations where you want shallow depth of field, or fill light, if using flash outdoors

c.pfaffenbichler

Community Expert

Reminds me of this thread:

Re: How to remove horizontal banding caused by LED lighting

D Fosse

Community Expert

Interesting. What's the fill light, specifically? On camera flash? Some kind of LED? That's where it is, not the background.

I've noticed with my Sony that the silent shutter tends to give these interference stripes in LED and fluorescent lighting. That's because the sensor is scanned, not read all in one. I just need to be careful to avoid a certain shutter speed range, and adjust ISO if necessary.

Fixing it is possible, but takes a lot of time. No magic button.

Abambo

Community Expert

that looks like a lot of photoshopping. I do not know any point and click solution for this.

Discussion successfully moved from Adobe Creative Cloud to Photoshop

ABAMBO | Hard- and Software Engineer | Photographer

On-camera flash (i.e. Speedlight)

Sign up

To post, reply, or follow discussions, please sign in with your Adobe ID.

Sign in to Adobe Community

To post, reply, or follow discussions, please sign in with your Adobe ID.

Scanning file for viruses.

This file cannot be downloaded