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marybrd
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December 20, 2018
Answered

Monitor Calibration - Prints don't match new monitor

  • December 20, 2018
  • 1 reply
  • 1848 views

On my last computer and external monitor, I could photoshop prints, send them out for printing, and get back prints that matched what I saw on the monitor.

I just purchased an Asus laptop with a Samsung QLED 28" external monitor.  I photoshopped a portrait, sent it out, and got back an image that was *way* different than my monitor.  On my monitor, it looked perfect.  On the prints, it looked much darker and something was off with the coloring. 

So, I think I need to get one of those color calibrators.  I was told by someone to get the Spyder5pro.  And another person said to get the X-Rite i1Display Pro.  But then I saw online people talking about the Spyder5Elite....  I'm just lost as to what to get. 

I am not a professional, by any means.  But I do a lot of portraits and nature photography for prints and for greeting cards, so I do need my colors to be true. Do you have any advice as to what to get so my photoshopped images print out the way I see them on the monitor???  (Oh - and I do have them printed at a reputable photo printing place - so I know that it's not a problem on their end.)

Thank you in advance for any and all advice.  I wanted to get these prints done for Christmas so I'm kind of panicked and in a hurry to figure this out!

    This topic has been closed for replies.
    Correct answer D Fosse

    Yes, a calibrator is an essential piece of equipment for many reasons. My vote goes to the i1. The Spyders aren't bad, I just think the i1 sensor is a tad better (I've tried and used both). The software is pretty similar.

    Now - there's one more crucial part to this: what parameters you calibrate your monitor to. Specifically, the white point and the black point. That's where you ensure a good screen to print match.

    The monitor profile that the calibrator makes, will just map white to white. 255/255/255 in the document, is just mapped to 255/255/255 in the monitor profile, and that's what goes to screen. You need to determine what that white looks like, and what you want is a visual equivalent to paper white. You want to "see" paper white on screen.

    It's not possible to give any fixed numbers for this, because your perception is affected by your whole working environment. Just get that visual match, by trial and error, and let the numbers fall wherever they want. But just to give you some ballpark figures, for "average" conditions it usually ends up in the vicinity of 120 cd/m² and D65.

    Next look at monitor black level. A high-quality inkjet print on glossy paper has a total contrast range of at best 300:1. That's just the relationship between white and black luminance. So if monitor white is 120 cd/m², a black level at 0.4 cd/m² will give you a 300:1 range. Most monitors have a much too high contrast range natively, which only ensures a big disappointment when you see the final print. Black level is incredibly important for the overall visual impression.

    This is just to give you an idea of what's at work. Get the i1, kick the tires a bit, and come back if you have more questions.

    Some people say screen and print can never match. They're wrong, you can get them incredibly close - but it does take a little consideration and experimenting.

    EDIT: What I'm trying to say is that you calibrate the monitor to match the print, not the other way round. Make a test print, and get the monitor to match that. With the white and black points pinned, the rest will be handled by an accurate monitor profile made by the calibrator.

    1 reply

    D Fosse
    Community Expert
    D FosseCommunity ExpertCorrect answer
    Community Expert
    December 20, 2018

    Yes, a calibrator is an essential piece of equipment for many reasons. My vote goes to the i1. The Spyders aren't bad, I just think the i1 sensor is a tad better (I've tried and used both). The software is pretty similar.

    Now - there's one more crucial part to this: what parameters you calibrate your monitor to. Specifically, the white point and the black point. That's where you ensure a good screen to print match.

    The monitor profile that the calibrator makes, will just map white to white. 255/255/255 in the document, is just mapped to 255/255/255 in the monitor profile, and that's what goes to screen. You need to determine what that white looks like, and what you want is a visual equivalent to paper white. You want to "see" paper white on screen.

    It's not possible to give any fixed numbers for this, because your perception is affected by your whole working environment. Just get that visual match, by trial and error, and let the numbers fall wherever they want. But just to give you some ballpark figures, for "average" conditions it usually ends up in the vicinity of 120 cd/m² and D65.

    Next look at monitor black level. A high-quality inkjet print on glossy paper has a total contrast range of at best 300:1. That's just the relationship between white and black luminance. So if monitor white is 120 cd/m², a black level at 0.4 cd/m² will give you a 300:1 range. Most monitors have a much too high contrast range natively, which only ensures a big disappointment when you see the final print. Black level is incredibly important for the overall visual impression.

    This is just to give you an idea of what's at work. Get the i1, kick the tires a bit, and come back if you have more questions.

    Some people say screen and print can never match. They're wrong, you can get them incredibly close - but it does take a little consideration and experimenting.

    EDIT: What I'm trying to say is that you calibrate the monitor to match the print, not the other way round. Make a test print, and get the monitor to match that. With the white and black points pinned, the rest will be handled by an accurate monitor profile made by the calibrator.

      Randy Hufford
      Community Expert
      Randy HuffordCommunity Expert
      Community Expert
      December 20, 2018

      Here is a great video to help understand what you need to consider.

        Randy Hufford
        Community Expert
        Randy HuffordCommunity Expert
        Community Expert
        December 20, 2018

        ThePerfectPrintDVD1Calibration - YouTube

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