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Djuna_A_
Djuna_A_
Known Participant
October 26, 2017
Respondido

Printing/proofing CMYK

  • October 26, 2017
  • 1 resposta
  • 1706 Visualizações

Okay, so I'm in the home stretch. Calibrated monitor, edited in RGB and then duplicated and converted to CMYK profile (Japan Color 2001 Coated)... destination: unspecified offset printer in Japan. I don't know the paper color, and I'm not going to see the proofs. So obviously I'm not going for perfection here. What I'm wondering is, would it be misleading to get the files printed out at a local laser printer place (they can do CMYK and keep my embedded profile, but their printer is not calibrated to that profile)? I mean, aside from just proofing them for scratches and sharpening... would the increased saturation of the laser printer just lead me astray? Should I just go with my monitor at this point for color, contrast, brightness...?

Thanks!

    Este tópico foi fechado para respostas.
    Melhor resposta por D Fosse

    A laser print is probably just misleading.

    The big variables are white point and black point, and these should be set as calibration targets. Then you can soft proof and get a very reliable preview of what the finished result will look like.

    Ideally you should make a direct comparison and try to match screen to an existing print, but if that's not possible a "generic" match shoud get you a long way.

    Does your calibrator (or monitor OSD) let you set a black point? This is very important. If it does, you will probably end up around 1.0 - 1.8 cd/m², depending on the paper. This is nowhere near the native black point of any monitor, and the main reason for the common disappointment at the  finished result.

    1 Resposta

    D Fosse
    Community Expert
    D FosseCommunity ExpertResposta
    Community Expert
    October 26, 2017

    A laser print is probably just misleading.

    The big variables are white point and black point, and these should be set as calibration targets. Then you can soft proof and get a very reliable preview of what the finished result will look like.

    Ideally you should make a direct comparison and try to match screen to an existing print, but if that's not possible a "generic" match shoud get you a long way.

    Does your calibrator (or monitor OSD) let you set a black point? This is very important. If it does, you will probably end up around 1.0 - 1.8 cd/m², depending on the paper. This is nowhere near the native black point of any monitor, and the main reason for the common disappointment at the  finished result.

    D Fosse
    Community Expert
    D FosseCommunity Expert
    Community Expert
    October 26, 2017

    This is how you can do it in a calibrator that lets you store multiple calibration targets. Each of these corresponds to a certain output - note the different white and black points.

    The only thing to remember is to relaunch Photoshop when switching targets, it has to load the corresponding profile at startup.

    D Fosse
    Community Expert
    D FosseCommunity Expert
    Community Expert
    October 28, 2017

    Also, a question: Do I still select "Black Point Compensation" in the printer profile conversion at Photoshop after setting black point for my monitor?


    Black point compensation should always be on. I can't think of any situation where you'd want to turn that off.

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