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There are tools that work surprisingly well, but it depends on various factors, like how busy the background is.
I found the image below on TradeMe, which is the New Zealand version of eBay. Selecting the Quick Selection tool, and simply clicking on Select Subject achieved this, and that was with quite a busy background.
The problem then becomes how clean you need the selection to be. Hitting the Q key to enter Quick Mask is one way. You can brush with white to remove the selection, and black to add. There are tricks like touching down with the brush, and then Shift touching down to force a straight line between the two brush locations. This still a compromise.
Ideally you'd need to use the Pen tool, which can be a bit time consuming, and entails a bit of a learning curve, but there might be a solution to this. There are Clipping Mask services in places like India that would do a car outline quickly, and I rather suspect affordably. Certainly cheaper than if you applied your own hourly rate to get the job done. I Google the links below, but you might get recommendations from vehicle sales forums, if such a thing exists.
https://www.clippingfactory.com/
https://clippingpathindia.com/
https://www.clippingpathspecialist.com/
Interiors are another matter, and basically, all about how to take the picture, and that comes down to killing reflections. I took this picture of my Pajero dash for the sole purpose of illustrating a question in the Owner's Club forum, but being a commercial photographer. I couldn't help myself but try to make a half decent job of it. It mostly comes down to three squares of black fleece blanket, which are 1.5 metres square, and cost me $5 each from NZ's answer to Kmart, The Warehouse. One covered the screen, and the other two each side window. A DSLR with camera mounted articulated speedlite was used to bounce light off the roof lining. I also had a small scare of card Velcroed to the front of the flash to prevent direct light hitting the dash, which would have caused flare. I did select the screen area and add the gradient, but it looked OK without that. Otherwise, this is very close to how it looked straight out of the camera.
There is a wee trick going on here. The dash is lit by the flash, so the exposure for that is set by the aperture. The displays, on the other hand, are available light, so you need to set an appropriate shutter speed to match the aperture (which was governed by the flash power setting). The shutter speed does not affect the flash, unless you are shooting above the flash maximum sync speed, which is unlikely inside a vehicle with black blankets covering the windows.
Note I did tweak the uppermost display in Photoshop to get contrast and clarity.
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