Smart Object VS Spot Healing Brush

[guillermosh]

Hello! I am working with Photoshop on aprox 2GB files from 4x5 negative scans. My first step is to open the file with Smart Object and do the first adjustments there. I then do the fine tuning in Photoshop using layers, curves, masks etc. My problem is when it comes to the Healing Brush and Clone tools to clean the dust from the scan. I first create a layer over the 'Background". Then I click on it and go to Spot Healing (J).  The problem is when I decide to go back to the Smart Object to do any further corrections, the 'holes' where the spot healing were done show up. How can I fix this without losing the benefit of going back to my Smart Object? Spot healing on the background is a huge risk that is why I create a layer. Thanks!!!

[ExUSA]

Why are you using Smart Objects? When you say going back to do further corrections, going back to what? Aren't your scans saved as TIFF? And spot healing directly on the background is fine, I always do this and rarely have to go back to fix anything. If I do, either the history brush or going back to a copy of the original to copy/paste a small area really doesn't hurt anything.

This is how Smart Objects are supposed to work BTW. If you add a separate layer with whatever content, it stays separate from the SO.

Your best workflow might be to make global corrections, fix dust spots, and then do whatever additional global adjustments you need.

Finally, why are your scans so large? 4x5" at 2400ppi (which might actually be above the film resolving power) at 16 bits/pixel is a 659MB PSD file. A TIFF should be about the same size. FWIW, I used to shoot 4x5 and IIRC 2400ppi was overkill for scanning.

[guillermosh]

Thanks ExUSA. May I ask why you don't use Smart Object?  I use Smart Object because it is a first step to laying out general temperature and bringing up/down highlights and shadows. Sometimes I go back to the Smart Object if I need to pull or push a highlight or shadow. Scans are saved as TFF, then I duplicate the original and work on it as PSB. Scans are large because I sometimes print to 50x60in which at 240dpi 16bit comes to over 1GB. Thanks again.

[ExUSA]

You don't need Smart Objects, they do nothing for you here except cause problems. You are working with rendered TIFFs, not RAW files from a camera.

As for file size, have you tested the difference in scan resolution? 40"x50" at 240ppi, as I said above, gives a 659MB 16-bit RGB file (its PPI not DPI which is for printing.) You probably aren't getting any more information off the film by scanning above 2400ppi. i used to shoot Fujichrome 50 on 4x5 which is going to be sharper than anything but slow black and white film and even 2400ppi was probably at the limit.

Regardless of that, just open the TIFFs directly and do all of your adjustments in Photoshop. You gain nothing by going back to Lightroom.

[guillermosh]

Thanks for all the input. I'll give it a shot.