How to convert a picture from AdobeRGB to CMYK Fogra39

Well guys,

First. Thank you very much all of you for your prompt reply. It's a campaign that I shoot and retouched and honestly, it was quite complicated .... everybody is happy with the results. I didn't want to mess up with the final delivery of the images.

I mages look very good also in CMYK and I just save them in Tiff as they ask.

Sending over and I'll let you know in 24hr.

Have a good night.

🙂

As mentioned the conversion is relatively straight forward.  Edit > Convert to Profile will do that.  Adding sharpening will depend on how the image will be printed.  If it's 150 line, or 60 lpc  then just a bit, because screening reduces the picture information to a series of solids that's integrated visually.  Adding sharpness to the image helps when screening happens.  

Photoshop ships with an Adobe created profile for Fogra39:

External filename: CoatedFOGRA39.icc

Internal Profile Description: Coated FOGRA39 (ISO 12647-2:2004)

There are many others out there, this print condition is also known as ISO Coated v2, however you may prefer to play it safe and use an ISO Coated v2 300% total ink variation on the standard profile.

Not all profiles are created equal, so although they may all be targeting the same nominal printing condition, resulsts can vary so it can be wise to see if you prefer the conversion of one profile vs. another, particularly so for images that are wildly out of gamut.

It's straightforward enough, just Edit > Convert to Profile.

However, you're likely to see some gamut clipping. Some colors that can be contained in Adobe RGB, can not be reproduced in FOGRA39. There's nothing you can do about that, but you may want to compensate if you have areas where it's very pronounced.

Hard clipping can look unpleasant, with a dense, opaque look without texture. In other cases it may not be a problem. It depends, it's up to you.

Keep the file in Adobe RGB, and proof to FOGRA39 (View > Proof Setup). You will then see in real time how the final conversion will look. If it looks good, just do the conversion (on a copy, obviously).

There's a gotcha to this. You need a wide gamut monitor. If you have a standard gamut monitor, everything you see on screen is already clipped to sRGB. You don't see the full Adobe RGB gamut anyway, so proofing is really of little value.