First...Jim and Chris, thanks for responding. I know it was a lot to wade through! I'll try to respond to what I can. Jim, thanks for "Yes"; it's the obvious way to go and I'm headed there. "Depends on how different the shots are". Three identical cameras, all appearing to work correctly (one my own since 2014, the others rented from Lensrentals.com which was a lovely experience; great people and very reasonable price on very short notice). Same settings on all cameras with the exception of f-stop which was variable on all three cameras depending on which night. ISO/gain identical, shutter speed identical, white balance auto on all three (to do otherwise in this kind of shoot is suicidal; I've tried it). Focus is set to a midpoint (15 meters for center camera, 18 for the outside ones which have a longer throw to center stage; with maximum f4.0 at appropriate zoom levels, and a norm of about f8.0 there isn't much of a depth-of-field issue). Chris... I am familiar, have used, but am not an expert with scopes. I certainly think they can be used to advantage, and would be curious which scope or array you would consult first? My greatest familiarity is with the RGB parade and, in a few experiments just now, I was able to help equalize a scene between the three cameras just now using that. If you think I should get familiar with others, let me know but I see that setting based on the RGB Parade and only THEN adjusting by eye will be faster and much more accurate. Let me know if there's a different scope or set of them that would stand me in better stead. I had had an Adele (we had three, in different performances!) ask for her "My dear Marquis" scene so I excised it to do as a sort of trial balloon. This is when I realized that reacting to color issues on each cut between cameras was going to be excruciating! If you want to see it message me privately and I'll send you a Dropbox link; it's a little under 6 minutes long. I'll work on the Master Clips idea. Because of the constant lighting variation it may be a difficult fit but since it's all non-destructive it is no bother to try it. I'm concerned about using keyframes; there are so many parts of Lumetri. It isn't just one keyframe! This being said, I'll review Colin's video first thing in the AM (It's 2AM - going to bed now!) I think doing a razor cut between scenes with significant changes and adding a cross-dissolve so it isn't so sudden might still be an option, and doing it on the Source version (after making an initial overall setting on the master clip; still working on that concept) might solve some things. I then have three levels where I can work: Master clip level, Source clip level (I guess using the Toggle Track Output eye is a fast way to compare both with scopes and my eye), and Target clip level (which should be avoided in most if not all cases but which I used exclusively on the one clip I processed, to my detriment - it would take forever that way!) Again thanks, and if any other ideas occur don't be shy. Jay Update - I think I have the hang of Master Clips at least as a basic thing. My idea: scrub through the entire act (thank God and Adobe for proxies - doing that with 4K is like taking an elephant for a walk in the garden) and watch the RGB Parade react. Find a midpoint and apply the basic eyedropper Lumetri white-balance correction, then check at several points, removing, adjusting curves if necessary, turning Lumetri on and off for the best overall correction. This will correct the most glaring and obvious color issues. Be ready to do more at the Source Clip level. By George, (I think) I've got it (apologies to Lerner & Loewe, My Fair Lady). And thanks again to all. If anything sounds wrong in here please feel free to chime in.
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