Doc_Pit
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Doc_Pit
Enthusiast
Activity
‎Jan 16, 2025
02:08 PM
Trevor, thanks very much for your response. Persuant to your suggestion, I need to follow-up my original question with some questions regarding copy and paste. I made the shape and attempted to paste it into the SO Mask. Instead of pasting into the mask, it pasted the shape onto a separate layer. I looked at two tutorials (Steve Patterson https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=how+to+paste+into+a+mask+in+photoshop&mid=856CBB9A3A4A9933BC19856CBB9A3A4A9933BC19&FORM=VIRE and Julieanne Kost https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=how+to+paste+into+a+mask+in+photoshop&mid=A67B79B8CA1F1E9AD98FA67B79B8CA1F1E9AD98F&FORM=VIRE ). Both address this issue. Following their instructions, after copying the shape from its layer, I pressed the alt key (Windows) to reveal the mask; then I pasted. In each of their tutorials, this successfully pasted into the mask. In fact, I encounter the same problem even if I’m just trying to cut from one layer and paste into another w/o reference to a mask. In the image attached, I tried a simple experiment. I created a yellow rectangle on one layer and a smaller black rectangle on a second layer. I then copied the black rectangle from layer 2 and pasted into the yellow rectangle on layer 1. Instead of pasting on to layer 2, PS created a new layer, layer 3. Moreover, the black rectangle on layer 3 does not align with the source rectangle on layer 2. I also converted layer 1 into a SO, created a smart blur filter with a mask, copied the black rectangle from layer 2, pressed the alt key to view the mask, and attempted to paste into the mask. There was no result at all. Nothing was pasted into the mask. No new layer was created. Bottom line, as you suggested, I made a shape, but I was unable to paste it into the layer mask. It seems ridiculously simple. Can you see what I’m doing wrong? Also, I reset Preferences to make sure the problem is not something flaky with PS.
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‎Jan 15, 2025
10:06 PM
Hoping I can get some help with a masking problem. Picture an image that contains several ripples, like when a raindrop lands on the surface of a pond. Each ripple is essentially a series of concentric elliptical shapes emanating from the center, each ellipsis slightly irregular. To each of these ripples, I would like to apply a graduated blur, so that the ellipses closer to the center are sharper than those further from the center. One way to do that would be to convert the ripples layer to a smart object, apply a Gaussian blur, and apply a radial gradient to the blur filter’s layer mask. However, I would like to shape (i.e., transform) the gradient to the contours of each individual ripple. I understand there are ways to contour a gradient. I can, for example, create a gradient in a shape layer and transform the shape. However, I haven’t figured out how to contour a gradient within a layer mask. Does anyone know how to do this?
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‎Aug 25, 2024
03:36 PM
I usually figure out how to mask pretty much anything, but here I've hit a wall. Generally, I start with a B&W adjustment layer, using the various sliders, and combine that with other adjustments to get as close as I can to a white subject against a black background. Couldn't find any combination of options that showed any promise. Traditional tools like the magic wand, quick selection or color range are no match for the fine network of feathers against a background that, in places, is not very different in color or tone from the feathers themselves. Is this just a "punt" situation? Or is there a way to approach this?
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‎Jul 17, 2024
06:13 PM
1 Upvote
Serious as a heart attack, Trevor. I work with a Cintiq and two Dell monitors, all of which are several years old. I was surprised that I could no longer update my Dell/Xrite calibration software. I needed a monitor that I could calibrate reliably. So, I mortgaged my house and purchased an Eizo CG 2700S because it has a self-calibration feature that does hardware calibration. I don't have enough money left for beer, which is another positive.
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‎Jul 16, 2024
07:51 AM
1 Upvote
Thanks for the tip about the light application interface. I'll need to try that.
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‎Jul 15, 2024
03:34 PM
I was reading some material from Eizo that advised trying to keep the ambient light in the work area as close as possible to the brightness and color temperature of the monitor. If I tried to install a florescent light to replace the overhead ceiling light in the room, it would reflect on the monitor surface as a hot spot. My only solution would be some high intensity floor lamps that can take 6500K bulbs and bounce light off the ceiling. I'm wondering how others might have addressed the relation between monitor brightness/color and ambient brightness/color in the workspace. Or, is it a real problem at all?
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‎Jul 08, 2024
12:53 PM
1 Upvote
Response much appreciated. Thanks.
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‎Jul 08, 2024
07:39 AM
I think I might have done a poor job describing my issue. Let me reframe this. I read quite a few online articles that suggest I should always edit in ProPhoto, where I have the greatest range of colors, then convert to sRGB when I want to distribute images that would be viewed on the web or with non-color-managed applications. Regarding: " If you can't get it to work in sRGB..." My point is that I CAN get it to work in sRGB. I have never felt constrained by the relatively smaller color range of sRGB. So, I have been editing in sRGB on this premise: If I edit in ProPhoto, then convert to sRGB for distribution, some external process decides how colors from ProPhoto outside the sRGB range are brought into the sRGB space. If I edit in sRGB, there are no surprises. I see all the colors that will appear in the final image. Is that valid logic? Thanks for the responses.
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‎Jul 07, 2024
07:55 PM
Recently, I’ve been editing in sRGB for several reasons: (1) If I want to distribute my images electronically, people will view those images mostly in sRGB or in whatever color space is set in their monitor. In most cases, that is likely to be something closer to sRGB than to any other color space. (2) I never have felt that there were colors I wanted but couldn’t get working in sRGB. And modifying colors using simple hue and saturation adjustments and the like is not problematic. Given that I work often with nature scenes that include very gradual transitions (mists and the like), I do sometimes encounter banding. Using 16 bits with a narrower color range (sRGB) tends to minimize that problem. Does that make sense?
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‎Jul 01, 2024
07:09 AM
1 Upvote
Thanks very much for all the responses. I turn-off Maximise PSD and PSB Compatibility, but I have not been using compression because my files are often huge and complex (many layers). Saving with compression takes close to the duration of my expected remaining life span. I hate merging layers beyond what I have to because, sadly, I often think I have "finished" an image, only to decide at a later date that there are things I want to change. Being able to go back to earlier versions with editable layers facilitates that. But your comments help me to organize my thoughts regarding options. I have depended on this forum for years, and I have always felt it is a gold mine. Much appreciated.
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‎Jun 30, 2024
10:10 AM
Once I complete an image, I will save several earlier versions, which are useful in case, at a later date, I want to do some revisions. These version files are large and can take-up a lot of space. I can go through these files one-by-one, take steps to reduce their size (hide layers, rasterize smart objects, etc.) and resave them with compression. That's time consuming. I can use the built-in Windows zip utility to group and zip multiple files. This seems to reduce aggregate file size by about one-third. Does anyone know of a zip utility that is especially efficient when applied to Photoshop files?
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‎Jun 23, 2024
08:02 AM
Many thanks!
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‎Jun 21, 2024
10:06 AM
I'm using the most recent version of Photoshop (25.9.1). With this version, each time I use the move tool, I get a control box (as if I had hit Ctrl-T). Online tutorials correct this problem by unchecking a "Show Transform Controls" box right after the Layers drop down box on the options bar. That STC option does not appear on my options bar. Previously, if I used the move tool, it simply moved whatever I selected with my cursor, no boxes. I would like to restore that. Any suggestions. Also, curiously, in earlier versions, if I went to Help>About Photoshop, I would get version information. Now, that exercise produces no effect whatever. What???
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‎May 04, 2024
04:16 PM
1 Upvote
I know people have been posting about this for around 10 years, viz: If you inadvertently double click while pressing Alt to set the clone source, align will get checked. Have they ever come-up with a way to disable automatic alignment (i.e., align when I check the box, don't align when I don't check the box)?
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‎Apr 17, 2024
07:34 AM
In photoshop, if you inadvertently double click while pressing Alt/Option to set the clone source, align will get checked. Is there a way to prevent, i.e., set parameters so that "aligned" is only implemented when the box is manually checked?
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‎Mar 23, 2024
10:12 AM
An added note: Instead of painting a gray stripe with a hard brush, I added a gray clipping mask, so the entire body of the snake was gray. I then copied the same black mask with the same white brush stroke to that new layer. The issue with the sharp-edged/feathered edged segments disappeared. It may be that my guess was correct: In feathering the mask, I reduced the mask opacity at the edges so that the hard-edged gray stripe showed through at some points. Still doesn't explain why painting over those areas in black had no effect.
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‎Mar 23, 2024
09:07 AM
If I posted a complete shot, I would be including nothing that further clarifies the problem, and it would be impossible to read my notations, which point out where the problem lies (sharp edge vs feathered edge). The salient points are that the mask is black, the brush is white, the underlying stratum is gray, the blend mode is multiply, the brush is at 100% opacity / 100% flow / 0% smoothing, no fade. A hard brush was used to paint the gray and a soft brush was used to paint white over the mask. I sincerely appreciate your response.
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‎Mar 22, 2024
07:46 PM
4 Upvotes
Having a masking issue which I hope someone can explain to me. The image below is from a snake painting. It shows a piece of the image and the layer. I want to put a soft, feathered gray stripe along the body of the snake. I first used a hard brush to paint in a broad gray stripe. I set the blend mode to multiply. I attached a black mask. I then used a soft white brush over the black mask to reveal the stripe. I was able to use the mask properties to adjust the feathering until I had the appropriately soft edge. There are two issues that puzzle me: (1) Notice that there are certain segments that are sharp rather than feathered. One possible explanation is that I feathered the mask to a point where the opacity of the mask was insufficient to conceal the sharp edge of the original brush stroke. However, if that were the case, I would expect that condition would obtain uniformly, not in segments. (2) If, for example, I use a black brush at full opacity to clean-up the gray that spills over the snake body (image, upper left), the black brush has no effect. It does not hide the gray. Same in the lower area. A black brush will hide gray areas except where the edge is sharp. There is no layer projecting anything from higher in the layer stack. As expected, if I hide the layer, the gray disappears. If I disable the black mask, the hard gray stroke is completely revealed. I.E., everything works as expected, except for the issues I described. The problem is easy to work around. I'm just curious about what is happening here. Thanks.
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‎Jan 30, 2024
06:56 PM
1 Upvote
Thank you.
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‎Jan 30, 2024
06:56 PM
That was really helpful. Thanks for your time. Much appreciated.
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‎Jan 29, 2024
07:28 PM
4 Upvotes
‎Dec 30, 2023
12:40 PM
7 Upvotes
I have read posts from 2021, 2022 about problems running Photoshop in Windows 11. Can anyone tell me whether there are issues running the most current versions of Photoshop in Windows 11?
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‎Oct 29, 2023
02:01 PM
I view these kinds of annoyances as a retribution from God for the wicked life I've led. Take care, Trevor. Thanks very much for your assistance.
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‎Oct 28, 2023
07:11 PM
Trevor, many thanks for your response. I should clarify that the problem started with 25.0. I updated to 25.1, hoping that would fix the problem. Apparently, the problem fixed itself, at least for now. The problem appeared on 25.0. I upgraded to 25.1. Problem remained. This morning, after reading your reply, I tried it with 25.2. No problem with 25.2. THEN… I tried it again with 25.1. No problem with 25.1 either. I changed absolutely nothing. My guess is that if the problem toggled on, then toggled off, it will toggle on again. Sounds nuts, but that’s what I’m seeing. Answers to your questions: I do have 25.2 (Beta) installed. Cintiq Pro 24 connects to a Windows 10 PC. Cintiq is configured to use Windows Ink. Have no idea whether the problem is gone or asleep.
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‎Oct 27, 2023
06:27 PM
7 Upvotes
I'm running the latest version of PS (v25.1) in Windows 10, with the latest Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 driver and the latest Nvidia Quaddro driver. I've just started having the problem of my brush flickering between the normal circle cursor and the pointer arrow. There are some old posts about this problem. The solutions had to do with third party plugins. However, I haven't installed any third party plugin since long before this problem appeared. The brush paints properly, but the flickering is very annoying. Does anyone know how to fix this?
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‎Oct 14, 2023
09:27 AM
Thanks, Jeff. I had a professor once who said: "The reason so many important scientific discoveries are made by young scientists is that they have not yet learned to ignore the obvious." Thanks, again.
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‎Oct 12, 2023
10:51 AM
4 Upvotes
The image at L shows the grain control options in earlier versions of Camera Raw: control for amount, size and roughness. The only option I find in Camera Raw 2025 is a single grain amount slider (image at R). Am I missing something?
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‎Aug 24, 2023
09:15 AM
Kevin, thanks for the response. The rotate symbol enables rotation clockwise or counter-clockwise. If you look at that tutorial, he is able to rotate the object around the X and Y axes. It's like looking at a dinner plate full frontal, than rotating it so that you are looking at its edge.
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