Hi, I have had adobe support remote connecting 4 times now, we have tried all sorts, made it arial regular left justified, new page save it, make another, arial. ok. reboot pc, open pshop, it shows arial in the box, etc arial ok, type and get arial, he declares fixed. I say until tomorrow. next day its back to TNR right just ....aaagh so another call, this time he is confident. and guess what. next day and its TNR again. and yesterday it was arial. I have just done a printscreen and clicked the type tool on page for the first time today, and its TNR right justified.   [cursing removed] I have 6 pages of things that are wrong in 26.3 so far to send Adobe.   Merlin   ... View more

Hi, In tha past I used CS6 and it had raw 9.1.1 and no masks feature, So this loss of masks and inability to reapply them to the next image is something experienced for the first time now. having soent ages creating masks, needing to apply the same masks to a number of images. One wants to reuse them.   Doing a test' in CS6 open as>camera raw' on a .jpg and applying sliders, opening into pshop,  then opening another same method and 'apply previous conversion' saw the sliders adopt the same positions. do that in raw 17.1.1 and that still works.   Its the fact that masks also get used as part of the conversion process, and they are not re-applied when 'previous settings' option is chosen.   so the conversion is incomplete, basically its not happened.   This is for Open as>camera Raw method.   Testing for a default raw file from a camera such as a Canon dSLR. apply previous settings works  in raw 17.1.1   owever if previous work involved masks, it fails to introduce the masks.   So apply previous settings IGNORES MASKS, be it a native raw file or an open as>raw method.   whilst open as saves no .xmp file, a native raw file has generated an .xmp   THIS .XMP DOES NOT SAVE ANY MASK WORK. thus previous conversion IS NOT POSSIBLE.   Thats a real nuisance as wanting to use same masks work on a number of photos, IS NOT POSSIBLE !   Merlin ... View more

Hi, I have a wall against a bright white sky, I select mask and sky, i get sky but a por match around the trees, I select luminance subtract and click the sky area by the trees and it improves, however all the mortar as well as other bits is black on a white area, I reach for the contrast slider to perhaps sort these out, but instead it attacks the contrast of the picture itself. where do we get at the controls you show so that they work on the mask. I am in white on black mode to see the mask. as soon as I drag the exposure or the contrast slidet the white on black vanishes and it alters the photo itself. Cheers Merlin3. ... View more

 I hate to be harsh, but that image was always beyond help.  You shot into the sun through a dirty windshield, and held the camera away from the windshield.  In situations like that, get the camera/phone whatever as close to the glass/plastic as you can to try and get those marks out of focus.  You have also overexposed the image. The poor thing never stood a chance. By @Trevor.Dennis Into sun..I had no choice the subject was there and not behind me, , sometimes the subject/sun situation is as such, anyone attending Duxford airshow is faced with this issue yearly ! Through a dirty windshield…again no choice, I took a pleasure flight, one doesn’t say let me clean the screen. One is without such cloths and risking being told go away ! Camera away from windshield, I was seated in the back to get shots out of the side window, which came out good and are historcially important now. No chance to climb through to the front and press camera against what is a sloping windscreen and get eye to the eyepiece to see what one is aiming at, it was a 35mm Canon camera in the 1980’s. With seatbelts on even being in the front would have made that impossible to do You have also overexposed the image. Set to manual exposure sunny 1/250 f 11 200asa it shouldn’t have been overexposed, I never used auto. I might have incorrectly set it at start as those following were ok, rare that though ? You want to see the miracles I am having to perform on other shots during the 35mm years, negs have faded, purse out of a sows ear has nothing on it, really putting raw mode through its paces, and needing better drawing tools in it.   Here is (screen capture) what I have managed so far, dehaze an awesome tool, that sky and horizon is troubling me. Merlin3 ... View more

Hi, method 1 made a pigs ear of things, nothing lined up, colours remained same.   method 2 https://www.photoup.net/learn/how-to-match-a-color-in-photoshop how can one judge if the sliders are matching the target image when the target image is a 1inch square on the screen ? Impossible to do at that size. yet that article shows such.   Is there no way sampling the same area of colour in both images can be used to say match that to that and have the brains of Photoshop do it ? trying to fiddle around by eye is somewhat primitive.   Method 3 is about evening up differences in darkness.   My photos have differences in colour, scans from negs, a 4 set panorama across an airfield of grass, taken seconds apart starting off at the evening sky and panning left from it. first is a bit yellowy, the next seems to have gone a bit violet, then the last two are about same and a tad bluey for the grass. The grass thoughout needs to match. Such colour variations can get in during the scan of the neg. I just wish one could set the pipette size to 51x51 or 100 x 100 and click the grass in each shot and have it all marry up colour balance wise. In Raw 17 there is not even an indication of the pipette size for when using the neutral colour pipette. I wish the colour sampler pipette had an indication of size, move it a fraction and the RGB values change. I have been trying to adjust tint to get the one picture match the rgb of the grass in another. but just getting the sample to give the RGB values of the target photo is not easy, it needs to be of an average sample like the pipette in photoshop provides. even that is dodgy as its not 51x51 of the image but of the 'monitor' so if you ar zoomed out it can pick up on adjacent colours !   Merlin ... View more

Hi, I have shots of same wall same distance same lighting taken seconds apart, with foliage behind me (pic on right) and wall a few feet away (pic on left), a bit of a greeny tint I feel when first working on the wall at right. It’s a scan of a35mm neg and such things change over time, especially if in a sleeve which is not acid-free ! I know the bricks from other pictures and by being there from elsewhere on the same land built at the same time etc etc. Those taken close to the wall were seconds apart, no light change.  I adjust as best I can, the first is done by eye, I see a small dark shadow where the mortar was missing ! so make that neutral on RGB values. Next in the sequence I see a grey (?) walled building through the leaves, and pipette that with the neutral pipette, and all looks better, so apply that to the first one starting over and using ‘use previous settings’ in raw mode,  now two look same . I do a third that way. But then the 4th photo is taken further back, having stepped back to outside of the foliage, (pic on left, though I have zoomed into the wall for this post), more grass and foliage in the picture now, with the wall visible in places, choose ‘apply previous settings’ and eeek its a bit pinky looking everywhere. So instead I use 'auto' and it looks correct, now I need to match the colour balance of the close up wall pics to the wall in the image at left, I wish to click on A and B and C at left then click the areas A B C at right and tell pshop to make that at right match the colours at left, then I can make the picture at right brighter as it currently looks, I am using the picture at left to tell me what the coloir balance is, not what the brightness is, as its in shade, if I were to make the wall at left as bright as the wall at right, the scene would appear over exposed.   so A B C to match between both pics on colour balance ! Just how do I do that ? Surely Pshop has a match colour tool for this ?   I am not wanting to match the greyscale, that is a need at the same time, though I would expect the wall visible in the bushes to be a bit darker than that taken 3 feet away, BUT this is about the colour. Its such a basic task. Else what have Adobe been up to this last 30 years ? Merlin   ... View more

Hi, ok, will get one, however I have thousands of images with Q13 in them and need to use those to colour match two photos, one with flash bounced and the other same shot , camera not moved, same subject same lens focal length same focus etc etc, but existing light. supposed to be daylight but was slightly greenish.   and my brick wall, taken with no cards at all, 35mm neg, I need to match the two together. Historically important as it no longer exists and I need to show what it looked like.   WHAT TOOL to use to click on a brick then same in other pic and say match the colour balance. then repeat another brick, and perhaps another.   I DESPERATELY need to match photos together on colour appearance same subject same moment a few secs apart or a few minutes, lighting same in that both are sun in etc. Surely Pshop (not in raw) has a way of matching two pics together. Ideally also in raw mode, yes we can click sync, if two photos are in the strip at left but a monitor screen apart, so not visible at same time. but rather than try to judge it by eye, have tha ability to click an area and have it match up. maybe raw mode is best place to do this, whatever, need that tool or method somewhere PLEEEEEZE.   Merlin ... View more

Further thoughts, what this is doing is making an average colour and applying it by brush to a layer best set to mode colour. But the result then lacks the variety of colours that make up the apparent hue, the trees or tarmac need more than a solid colour painted over them, also its impossible to darken that area or improve the contrast, generally to give it the p'zazz of the area beside it. I have opted to grab the area as a selection and paste it in as a layer, then do the pipette thing, over that. Then its  contrast, levels etc can be adjusted, then one sees the effect of that a bit more. Still a struggle, as in hours of struggling. We need a means of sampling the area beside the target area, saying copy the appearance of this area, to the afflicted area. That means copying the coloured composition, the levels, the contrast, etc replacing those of the afflicted area. See the attached, a tarmac area, here I have sampled the area, positioned it over the afflicted area, and want to transfer through the appearance of it. a layer mode setting that lets through the appearance, If I alter opacity the orange shows through. How can that be done ? the pipette and paint method is somewhat dead pan for it, results are any shade of grey and thats it, no colours other than grey.   Merlin3 ... View more

Here is what happens when I alter text engine in CS6 to the other option there, that of Middle Eastern. Immediately I get a wierd symbol in my text. and if I leave it as that, and open a file from 26.2 made with arial regular (my go to font in recent years) I dont get the engine warning but an update warning and clicking update I get a wierd symbol ! ... View more

hi Jane, Doing a test, it opens from 26.2 to CS6 with warning, I go ok, I am able to alter the text. a raster layer is still editable. There are a myriad of different text things one can normally do, so whether any of those are not possible I dont know without further testing to se if everything is where I last put it, effects same. cdrop shadows and other things the same.  and I have lost a whole week so far to trying to set up 26.2 so just havent time...  no time to do aything opening previous work just now. Will have to saty in CS6 to be sure all is ok. I made some edits, saved it , also made a new file in CS6, both opened without a warning into 26.2   I am uneasy after a lifetime of setting everything to English UK to choose Middle EAST. Dont know what issues that may cause, further down the line.   Adobe causing enough grief as it is.   Merlin3 ... View more

Hi, I have 26.2 set up as CS6, correct greyscale for 18% and to not give false sense of image brightness, and that is 2nd grey value from right in preferences. I work with colour matching and use holes in cartridge paper of a 18% grey value as is correct, and have pshop as its working with colours, set same way, always have done. it was not good in CS6, it was great before then, but now its bad. there is NO difference AND THERE SHOULD BE. So Adobe need to fix this as I cant see what I am working on !   and for windows 10 as wild horses will not drag me to 11. designed by a company who dont have to do actual work with a PC. Merlin3 ... View more

Hi, I have only just installed 26.2 having been with CS6 so resetting everything isn't right. and then I see its 26.2 at fault. jeff Arola. I am back to CS6 as I cannot see what I am working on .   Rats !!  very dissapointed so far, having had to fix things in the coding, and now this.   is there a way to fix this in UIcolors.txt ?   Merlin3 ... View more

Hi, here is what I managed. I think colour mode has the slight edge on results, the slightly warmer result of Hue may be the orange bleed still showing through, same density brush each time.   As I caught the graass in my brushing it went blue, so had to erase that part of the image. so its very picky as to what you select and paint over. The grass will need to be done separately. If it was that it looked at the colour for the chosen area , if I had selected the grass and tarmac, and understood when I was painting over grass and when over tarmac, all the better, but I get the feeling thats asking to much ! I thus need to use a like for like approach, so if a human sample the face then the jumper then the shoes etc etc.   I also wanted to use this on scale model photos where I have a flashlit aircraft and an existing light (supposedly natural light but its a bit greeny)  lit shot same tripod a minute apart, as I can never get the colours to match the flash shot which being bounce method shows true colours (and I know the colours appearance anyway) , but this will mean painting over the camouflage, the roundels the codes everything one colour at a time, completely impractical.  If I could have given Pshop the existing light and said match it to the flash shot, thats what I would truly want.   I tried the mixer brush tool on default settings, and nothing like this happened, couldnt see any change in fact. I have never used that tool so may be me.   Merlin3   ... View more

Hi, I will see if I can do that. it would be great to see someone on youtube do this, I am sure its a common need. I have now 5 images needing such. Cheers Merlin3 ... View more

Ok, Guess I have to draw lines over patterned areas, using the example in this thread. to show what I mean by diagonal lines over bricks and tiles etc. see attached. The door is good as its like my roof skylight where the lines didnt match afterwards. Keen to know what tools in Pshop 26 can handle that.   Cheers Merlin3 ... View more

Hi, here is the image needing a non linear grad.   (and yes It was treated to dehaze, the grass cropped off from this looked ok, could perhaps do with a grad filter for the dehaze as well. if I redo it.) the sky went horrendous cyan. I have another thats also done so. horrible effect on skies. perhaps cos its a neg scan and not a digi raw file.   merlin3 ... View more