Does anyone have a working downloadable version of muse

No. Muse reached End of Life more than 6 years ago.

https://helpx.adobe.com/muse/kb/adobe-muse-end-of-service.html

Even if you had an installer, you can’t activate it anymore.

Besides, Muse would be unfit for modern use. The web has changed too much.

OPTION:

1. Use free FileZilla s/ftp client to transfer files from your webserver to your computer. 
   https://filezilla-project.org/download.php
2. Open HTML, JS & CSS files in a plain code editor like free Visual Studio Code, available for Win/Mac/Linux.
   https://code.visualstudio.com/
3. Save edited files & upload to server with FileZilla s/ftp client. 

Most former Muse users migrated their sites to other solutions like Squarespace, Webflow, Wix or WordPress. 

Hope that helps.

it’s available in the cc desktop app, if you enable previous versions.