Table style fails to apply chosen cell styles

I'm confused about Table Cell Styles, they seem very unreliable. What I expect is that if I define a table style with a bunch of cell styles for header rows, body rows, etc., then when I make a table with that chosen table style, the cells will have my chosen styles. They frequently don't.

New tables—despite having body cell styles that define a paragraph style—seem to pick up stray styles from I'm not sure where. When I go into the table cell style panel, I can see that the cells don't appear to have the correct cell styles chosen. My process for making a new table is to make the table, then manually re-assert the desired cell styles to get rid of whatever stray styles have been picked up.

Is this.. expected? It seems really inconvenient, like table styles are some leaky abstraction over a bunch of markup. I'm at the point where copying and pasting a previously fixed table is better. This seems dumb, like I'm missing something.