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Participating Frequently
August 14, 2019
Question

How do you (easily) exclude the sky from adjustments?

  • August 14, 2019
  • 3 replies
  • 1724 views

As a landscape photographer, I frequently need to make adjustments (sharpness, texture etc) to the foreground without causing these adjustments to create artefacts in the sky.  At the moment I have to either (a) make adjustments to the whole image, then try to 'undo' these for the sky by using the graduated filter with a colour or luminance mask to isolate the sky.  But reversing the adjustments tends not to remove all of the artefacts. And, because it is a graduated filter, the corrections are not applied evenly to the sky.   Or (b), I have to use the Adjustment Brush to painstakingly select the non-sky areas.  

What would make the process so much simpler would be to be able to use the graduated filter and range mask to select the sky, invert this to select the rest of the image and set the gradient to zero, so that the mask is applied evenly to the rest of the image. 

In the absence of such a feature, has anyone found an efficient way of doing this?

(Lightroom Classic 8.3.1)

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3 replies

tbugukAuthor
Participating Frequently
August 14, 2019

davidg, you're a genius - dragging the graduated filter out from the image is something I hadn't thought of.  And thanks for reminding me about the ALT-range slider.  Thanks - you've saved many hours of my life. 

GoldingD
Legend
August 14, 2019

My take, slightly different

Apply a local adjustment, either the Adjustment Brush, the Graduated Filter, or less likely the Radial Filter

If using the Adjustment Brush, do not enable Auto Mask

Using the Adjustment Brush, apply it to the area you need to cover, you do not need to be carefull. Then turn the Range Mask on, typically select Color, select your color using the target tool (eyedropper) avoiding any sky. You can either click/drag for an area, or Shift clcik to define multiple color samples. Might need to use the erase. Remeber to click on O to see the mask. To make a huge mask, instead of dragging it all over the place, Zoom out first.

Using the Gradiant Filter, in an diferent way. Instead of draging from top to bottom, clcik near a corner, say the top left corner and drag diaganoly out. THis creates a mas where the gradiant occurs outside the frame, inside the frame is one solid mask. Some find this quicker when you want a big mask. Turn that Range Mask on, select color, etc..  Note for Erash, you need to click on the brush tab. (might want to turn Auto Mask on for Erase)

Using Radial Filter, not my practice

JohanElzenga
Community Expert
Community Expert
August 14, 2019

Another thing to remember is that you can use the color sampler to select colors for a range mask in two ways. First, you can simply click. Shift-click adds another color sample, the maximum is five samples. You can also drag a rectangle rather than just click however. Every color inside that rectangle will be selected that way, and again you can do this up to five times. That should make it possible to select all colors in the landscape, except the blue sky.

-- Johan W. Elzenga
Just Shoot Me
Legend
August 14, 2019

Photoshop.

Which is included in your Photographers subscription.

In LR Adjustment brush and only do the adjustments to the areas you want by placing pins in those areas.

tbugukAuthor
Participating Frequently
August 14, 2019

Thanks.  I get that I can use the adjustment brush (see my option (b) in my question).   The key part of the question is "easily".  It seems to me that LR provides us with an easy way (a couple of seconds) to select the sky when we want to adjust that (graduated filter + range mask).   But there seems to be no similarly easy way to select and adjust the non-sky parts of an image, which is the more common scenario.  Which an invert option would give us.  So, as you say, we have to use the adjustment brush, which takes minutes, rather than seconds, per image.

Or, as you again say, we have to load into Photoshop, which takes time, doesn't have simple texture and clarity adjustment and uses destructive editing.

I guess I'm just surprised that (and wondering if) there isn't an easier way to do this, given that it's presumably a problem that all landscape photographers have to deal with? 

Just Shoot Me
Legend
August 14, 2019

Only destructive on the TIF or PSD file that is created from the original RAW file.

Which can be discarded and start over if you like.