Completely depends on how it will be printed.
For direct printing on garment you just make any kind of white. It doesn't matter, since the printing houses ususally ask you to provide a PNG. And as long as it's white in the PNG, they don't care what's in the AI file.
For screen printing usually a spot color.
But seriously: pick up the phone now and ask the print house. Ask them until you have fully understood what they told you.