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MrScoobydoobee
Participating Frequently
February 6, 2017
Answered

Editing TIFF files from scanner

  • February 6, 2017
  • 1 reply
  • 4554 views

I have a large archive of negatives both 35 mm and 6x6.

I use LR with RAW files at this point.

My scanner, a Hasselblad/Imacon Flextight 343 which can give me fff or TIFF files.  As I understand it I can convert an fff into a TIFF and then edit the TIFF in LR.

Can you enlighten me on:

  • should I save the fff and put it in a folder?
  • when I take the fff and convert to TIFF-what program would do this?
  • once I edit a TIFF in LR, is that "it" for that file; meaning I cannot revert back to the original TIFF?  Do I save it the edited TIFF or is it "in LR just like the RAW is?  Is the original TIFF gone?  Is that why I have saved the fff; in order to start again with another TIFF?

Thanks,   Walter

This topic has been closed for replies.
Correct answer Per Berntsen

I have an Imacon scanner myself, but I always scan as 16-bit tiffs. The way I see it, the FFF format is a detour, and will only create extra work for you. Lightroom cannot import these files, and you would need Imacon/Hasselblad software to convert them to TIFF. I also think there is a plugin for Photoshop that allows you to open FFF files, and save them as TIFF.

The important thing is to scan in 16-bit, and make sure that you get all the information in the negatives into the scan - i.e. capture all the shadow and highlight detail. You want a histogram with ample space at both ends, and this is usually achieved by zeroing out all settings in the scanning program. You probably also want to disable any sharpening - it's much better to do this in Lightroom.

If you have problems with clipped shadows or highlights when scanning as negative, try scanning as a positive, and invert the image in Photoshop. You can use Lightroom to invert, but it's a lot easier in Photoshop. If you don't have Photoshop, I would strongly recommend subscribing to the CC Photography Plan -  Photoshop and Lightroom for $10 a month.

You will almost certainly need to do some retouching - removing dust and scratches in the scans, and Lightroom is not suited for this kind of work. LR does have a spot removal tool, but compared to Photoshop, it is awkward to use, and what's worse - if you have more than a few spots in an image, it will slow Lightroom down to a crawl, or it might stop working completely.

So I recommend that you first bring the image into Photoshop, where you do retouching, noise reduction (Photoshop's noise reduction is far superior to Lightroom's), and a rough image adjustment, so that it looks reasonably good.

Now is the time to import the image in Lightroom, where you can do the fine tuning.

Lightroom will treat TIFFs the same way it treats raw files. The original is never touched, the edits are stored as metadata in the catalog. You can also edit the original in Photoshop after it has been imported in Lightroom, if you need to.

Lightroom can import layered TIFFs, and although you cannot see the layers in Lightroom, the layers will still be there if you go back to Photoshop to edit.

1 reply

Per Berntsen
Community Expert
Per BerntsenCommunity ExpertCorrect answer
Community Expert
February 6, 2017

I have an Imacon scanner myself, but I always scan as 16-bit tiffs. The way I see it, the FFF format is a detour, and will only create extra work for you. Lightroom cannot import these files, and you would need Imacon/Hasselblad software to convert them to TIFF. I also think there is a plugin for Photoshop that allows you to open FFF files, and save them as TIFF.

The important thing is to scan in 16-bit, and make sure that you get all the information in the negatives into the scan - i.e. capture all the shadow and highlight detail. You want a histogram with ample space at both ends, and this is usually achieved by zeroing out all settings in the scanning program. You probably also want to disable any sharpening - it's much better to do this in Lightroom.

If you have problems with clipped shadows or highlights when scanning as negative, try scanning as a positive, and invert the image in Photoshop. You can use Lightroom to invert, but it's a lot easier in Photoshop. If you don't have Photoshop, I would strongly recommend subscribing to the CC Photography Plan -  Photoshop and Lightroom for $10 a month.

You will almost certainly need to do some retouching - removing dust and scratches in the scans, and Lightroom is not suited for this kind of work. LR does have a spot removal tool, but compared to Photoshop, it is awkward to use, and what's worse - if you have more than a few spots in an image, it will slow Lightroom down to a crawl, or it might stop working completely.

So I recommend that you first bring the image into Photoshop, where you do retouching, noise reduction (Photoshop's noise reduction is far superior to Lightroom's), and a rough image adjustment, so that it looks reasonably good.

Now is the time to import the image in Lightroom, where you can do the fine tuning.

Lightroom will treat TIFFs the same way it treats raw files. The original is never touched, the edits are stored as metadata in the catalog. You can also edit the original in Photoshop after it has been imported in Lightroom, if you need to.

Lightroom can import layered TIFFs, and although you cannot see the layers in Lightroom, the layers will still be there if you go back to Photoshop to edit.

M
MrScoobydoobeeAuthor
Participating Frequently
February 8, 2017

Thank you for your great help.

I used to use PS in the past.

If I add a layer to the TIFF that I bring into PS, e.g. for spot retouching can I keep the file as 16 bit for it to go into LR.  If I flatten the file in PS does that make it an 8 bit file, somehow I recall it that way.

In any event, if I bring the layered file into LR, can I print from LR using the layered file.  I assume I can make a VC of the layered file before I make other changes in LR.

Do I have this straight?

Per Berntsen
Community Expert
Per BerntsenCommunity Expert
Community Expert
February 10, 2017

But choosing Edit a copy with Lightroom adjustments will open a copy of the original without layers, leaving the original untouched.

True. Thanks Per.

I find that if I start from a Layered TIFF image in Lightroom- AND do more Development steps in Lightroom (call them 'secondary' )-

then:

1. Edit a Copy with Lightroom adjustments - the layers are flattened in the copy-  all the previous Ps work has gone.

2. Edit a Copy -  the 'copy' opens in Ps with layers BUT all the 'secondary Lr Development work is not shown in Ps.

3. Edit Original - the 'original' opens in Ps with layers BUT all the 'secondary Lr Development work is not shown in Ps.

There is no way (except 'Smart Objects' methods) to go back and forth from  Lr-Ps, Ps-Lr, Lr-Ps, etc (ad infinitum), with the one tiff image and maintain all editing steps done in both Ps & Lr.

I was trying to suggest that by creating a VC you can make 'secondary' adjustments to the tiff image for printing without having to create a physical copy of any kind, or damage the tiff with its layers intact.  So one tiff, multiple VCs to crop, develop, print, as desired.


There is no way (except 'Smart Objects' methods) to go back and forth from  Lr-Ps, Ps-Lr, Lr-Ps, etc (ad infinitum), with the one tiff image and maintain all editing steps done in both Ps & Lr.

I agree that the only true non-destructive workflow would be using smart objects in Photoshop, or using virtual copies if you're going to do heavy editing.

But for simple edits, like adjusting a layer mask, or changing the opacity of a noise reduction layer (which is what I typically do on scans), editing regular layers on the original will be fine.

Since I began using Lightroom nine years ago, the only editing I do in Photoshop is retouching, noise reduction, inverting scans from color negatives, and sometimes output sharpening for printing. (Smart sharpen)

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