Monitor Calibration Issue - iMac 5k Late 2015

Forum|Forum|9 years ago
March 6, 2017
2 replies
13722 views

Hello,

i am using the i1 Display Pro to calibrate and i have noticed that when i compare my old profile to the new one, the new one has a grey/greenish tinge.. does anyone have a guide to properly calibrate an iMac 5k with the i1 Display Pro?

Thank you

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Correct answer D Fosse

That looks like a good and comprehensive guide.

I'd just like to add that if this is one of the new DCI-P3 panels (Apple's variety of wide gamut), it's possible that it uses "GBr LED" backlighting, not "White LED", and the software should be set accordingly. This will affect the measured white point.

Most traditional wide gamut panels use GBr LED.

Generally, the calibration targets should be set to match the paper/final output (not the other way round). The numbers aren't important, D65 or otherwise. Let the numbers fall wherever they want. Just get that monitor white=paper white match.

Temperature is just half the story. That's just the yellow/blue axis. There's also a green/magenta axis to consider, and if this can be adjusted do so.

D Fosse

Correct answer

Community Expert

That looks like a good and comprehensive guide.

I'd just like to add that if this is one of the new DCI-P3 panels (Apple's variety of wide gamut), it's possible that it uses "GBr LED" backlighting, not "White LED", and the software should be set accordingly. This will affect the measured white point.

Most traditional wide gamut panels use GBr LED.

Generally, the calibration targets should be set to match the paper/final output (not the other way round). The numbers aren't important, D65 or otherwise. Let the numbers fall wherever they want. Just get that monitor white=paper white match.

Temperature is just half the story. That's just the yellow/blue axis. There's also a green/magenta axis to consider, and if this can be adjusted do so.

mickspawnAuthor

Inspiring

Hello, GB-LED is indeed selected (cant see GBr LED) and i still have the weird look. Could it be the lighting in the room that affects the profile too and how it is made? i have changed lighting setup.. my old profile from my old light setup displays true whites, but the new profile i made with the new lighting setup shows a grey/green tinge.

trshaner do you mean instead of GB-LED try selecting RGB-LED?

when i calibrate the brightness.. i set it for 120 and my display either does 113 or 142.. should i be selecting 120 instead of 142? doesnt seem bright enough lol

how do i get the white=paper match?

D Fosse

Community Expert

mickspawn wrote
hello
see below link.. these are all blown out on the recipients computer and he says on iphone they are too bright.. on my screen they look perfect
Dropbox - photoshop

Those look perfectly fine. No3 is a tad bright but not annoyingly so. It is not unlikely that the problem is on the receiving end. One thing to try is to download and look at some test images (a good collection here: Printing Insights #48)) Look at them on your monitor. Do they look too bright? Too dark? Are the colors natural?

Also, reading through the thread one thing to consider is that 120 cd/m2 is a really low brightness setting on the newest displays and they become harder to calibrate at those conditions. You might need to calibrate it at a more medium brightness setting to get rid of the tint. Also, that number is what is recommended for really quite dim lighting conditions. It was originally specified for much less bright CRT monitors where to get good contrast you needed really low background lighting. This is not that relevant anymore for modern displays and most editing rooms are not setup that way. Any room that has some daylight in it or more typical lighting will need a brighter setting than that.

The CRT recommendation was usually 80 cd/m² - mainly because few of them would go very much higher. So you'd make up for that with a little dim ambient light.

I can't imagine that 120 should give any problems with modern LCDs - unless the video card LUT is used to knock down brightness. It should be done in the OSD controls.

Anyway, the white piece of paper is still the most valid and reliable reference for white point. You should "see" paper white on screen.