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Yes, of course. One of my main cameras is an Olympus E-M1 II with the Pre Capture feature.
This is basically the exact opposite of what "zero shutter lag" is supposed to achieve. I don't want to have the exact frame at which I trigger the shutter with a delay via the display, because then the situation in question is already over. An example: I want to photograph a bee when it has left the flower and is in flight.
At the moment I release the shutter, the bee is usually no longer visible or at best still at the edge of the image in the crop. I would therefore like to set the camera to store a certain number of images from the ring buffer at the moment I press the shutter, so that I can then select the optimum moment in the past. It’s basically similar to the live photos feature.
But it would be nice if
(a) unlike with live photos, you could configure this number of frames (and therefore also the time period) and
(b) there would also be the option of getting these images as DNGs.
That might be (too) much to ask, but who knows what you are capable of.
By @photopoeth
Thank you for clarifying the ask. To clarify something from our end - when you tap on the shutter button, you do not get the frame that you see in the viewfinder: you get the raw frame that is nearest to the time you pressed the shutter. As you point out, the video stream and raw captures are not synchronized, and video stream is delayed because it needs to go through Apple's image processing pipeline. That pipeline is HW-accelerated, but still, some delay is incurred. So, when you try to capture a precise moment, you should focus on when that moment is happening more than what you see on the screen.
Regarding the second question, saving single-frame raw images as DNGs without any processing is possible and likely not too costly on the compute resources, but they would be single-frame raws, so all the benefits of computational photography (lowered noise, better dynamic range, etc.) would be negated (frontend box in the below diagram). Furthermore, for either raw of JPEG images, if you also want to have the Indigo look applied (green box in the below diagram), that requires compute resources so it would incur time and processing power penalty. JPEGs would also need the backend appearance processing, adding even more delay per image. And likely consequence of adding these progressively more costly options is that after capturing such a "burst", you'd have an increasingly longer timeout period during which you cannot capture more frames, with that timeout period heavily depending on which device you are using and what its thermal state is.
All of this to say that, many things are possible, but we'd need to zero in on the exact use-case and tradeoff as nothing in life is for free. 🙂 
@BorisTheBladethank you for the diagram! This is exactly what I was trying to illustrate to you when I mentioned that raw dng should not have anything on it except the x amount of frames stacked for NR, align and merge then wrapped in the dng container with no post processing ltm applied or any luts applied.
By @nhan_8084
The DNG doesn't have any of those applied to the raw data itself - they are added as metadata and the DNG renderer can (and should) at render time apply them to create the look. But they can also be simply disabled and then you would only see the data from align&merge algorithm.
I've done virtually everything to see if Indigo is REALLY that good and each experience comes back with a resounding YES, it IS that good! Bird photography has eluded me for years. Taken today with Indigo at 10X on a 16 pro max. I'm done testing.
Photo 1 using iPhone 16 Pro native Camera app @ 5 X, cropped in Photos to the same size (roughly) as ...
Photo 2 using Indigo @ 10X.
The differences are obvious, with the native app giving more accurate colour rendition, but less dynamic range.
By @FitzFoto
Thank you for reporting your findings. I have a question though: why did you decide to capture at 5x with the native camera and 10x with Indigo? If you use 10x for both cameras, how do the results compare then? Also, if you don't mind sharing which capture mode you used in Indigo (Photo or Night), and whether you had any Pro Controls active or was it in full auto mode?
Hi! Is this normal in night photography? If it's not is there a work around? It's my first time using the app to take photos at night time
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