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Hello,
I wanted to know which method is easier for background removal in PSD? I'm setting up staff photos with a green screen and will need to remove the background in PSD. Is it easier to remove the background in PSD with a green screen setup or white backdrop when taking photos? Thanks!
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Here's a great article explaining why you should use a white backdrop - https://www.dpmag.com/how-to/tip-of-the-week/dont-shoot-on-green-screen-12-2-13/
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I haven't read that entire article yet, but green halo effects are dead easy to counter, so I'm not sure I agree with the author that white is better than blue or green. In fact most colors can be made to work . The original Mary Poppins was shot for the matted scenes with the penguins against a bright yellow screen under sodium lamps. Admittedly they weren't using Photoshop but modified Technicolor cameras that simultaneously recorded the actors and the mask that the animators used to superimpose the animated characters, but it worked and McClaren Stewart received an Academy Award 25 years before Photoshop was invented.
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I'll add one more comment to the advice above which is all good.
If your masked photos are destined for a dark background I would use a dark/black background for the photos. Similarly if the masked photos are destined for a light background then use white. In either case expose to give clear contrast around the edge.
The use of a dark /light background as appropriate will save hours of de-contamination later.
Dave
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Gosh, that sounds such a simple question but there is not a simple answer. If you are going to do a lot of green/blue screen work then it's probably best to buy a program dedicated to that as they have 'batch' operation modes and that will save countless time. However if you want to use Photoshop it's perfectly good at removing any color background. Blue and green screen are particularly good as they are primay channel colors. If you have someone against a green screen for example and they are not wearing green clothing-and they probably won't be unless they are a leprechaun-then you can often go directly to the green channel in RGB and make a pretty decent mask just by adjusting the levels with very little cleanup. Post a representative image here and probably we can give you a guide to workflow.
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I would suggest a white background lit one and a half or more f/stops lighter than the white in the subject (white shirt for example). The background should be far enough away from the subject that there is no spill light affecting the edges and hair of the subject. Test, test, test prior to the assignment. Sharp focus. The Blend If command will remove the white.
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Hi Everyone, Im new here and im facing similar a similar question. I need to photograph silver jewellery. The surface of most items is bright, shiny and reflective . Now the issue is, if i use white background then the background removal using magic wand etc is not easy (silver being also reflective and white), using green would give the silver photos a green tinge which is also not desireable....any ideas of how to go about it so that the post processing of photo is easy?
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What is your final background going to be? If you just need the items isolated on white, get a small light table, light tent, and learn to use fill cards.
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If you want easy shoot on a colored (eg: blue, green) background, and then desaturate areas where you may have a colored cast. Do not use the magic wand, select subject will give you a better edge.m Will take some practice learning the global refinements, but worth the effort.
For quality you would hand cut a mask, so your main concern would be getting a great quality image and not blowing out the spectral highlights. Depending on your strobes and fill lights power and angle you may even prefer trying to shoot on black. Minimally you would want to put some backs or white cards around the product to better control your bounce lighting.
Writing a very lengthy reply in detail will nto help you as much, as suggesting you experiment atleast shooting the same product on different backgrounds and evaluate the results yourself. Don't lock yourself into always use the same color background from that point forward as having the strobes a little closer might make the difference between the luminosity of the background being the best, or whether the product itself is shiny or matte.
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I do product photography for a living and this is not a great idea, since jewelry will pick up color casts. Stick with white/grey/black unless you are using something like a colored base (say, red velvet) that will be in the final photo.
You want a light tent to control reflections and give you even lighting.
There are lots of tutorial videos online that may be very helpful.
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The color casts are easily removed with a desaturation or channel mixer layer and on top. V-Ras is shooting silver jewelry, and appears their struggle is with getting a good mask.
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Thanks, will stick to White for the moment i guess. Am also trying fill cards and different reflector angles...so just playing with how the light is bouncing to get an optimal photo which minimises post processing - cutting things manually is really a pain....will post updates
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If you are photographing people and using a white background you may find that things like peoples teeth (if smiling broadly), whites of eyes, and white clothing (eg shirts) may also be removed.
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Not if you do it properly. Keep the subject away from the backdrop and light the backdrop one stop over the subject exposure (unless you want blowback to backlight the subject.)
You can also mask in Photoshop or use other techniques to only retouch the background and not the subject.
I'm speaking as a working pro photographer with 35 years of experience who has photographed hundreds of professional models and who currently makes a living doing product photography.
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White for still photos / photoshop.
It will not show as badly around the edges of your mask, however you choose to do the cutting out. Bright colors will bleed into the edges.