Photoshop batch action to remove background, best color to start with?

[fixthisphoto]

I am wanting to remove the background of multiple pictures, I can make the backdrop any color as we are starting fresh, these are macro images jpeg, that will be resized to 1600 pixels.

Any ideas, start with a green screen?

or a white screen, then edit out the white?

I need it to be an action, so I can do a hundred at a time, and not necessarily wanting to have to look back through every picture.

Something semi fool proof?

I am going to build a box, maybe 4 foot x 4 foot x 4 foot out of plywood.

Probably set it on some pallet raking at 4 foot off the ground.

[Daniel E Lane]

A few issues with doing it in green screen within a box. Or any color for that matter. There will be color bounce and reflections due to the objects being surrounded by the color. Even if you are doing a food shoot that way, there will still be color cast.

You also need to think about how you want to light the objects before hand. Are you wanting to only have direct frontal light, or do you want a little edge lighting to separate the object out better. Can't do that in a box because it's all closed in.

you could go with Green Screen, as long as there is ZERO green in the objects you are shooting. And do it on a large cyc or sweep. You just need to make sure the objects are surrounded by the green in the camera's view. thats it.

[Norman Sanders]

I have found that, if. the object is opaque, rather than relying on color to make the differentiation, tone is more useful because it does not limit the colors appearing within the object. In that regard, white background 1 to 2 stops lighter that the lightest part of the lightest object to be photographed would be a logical test for your project. With that established, the background lighting would be common for all.

The background must be evenly lit and far enough behind the object that there is no light spill (flare) to soften the edges of the object and focus must be precise. Use Blend If with a transparent bottom layer and a common setting for each object. By moving the top right slider slowly to the left the background should fall to transparent almost immediately.

[Daniel E Lane]

Yeah. It's a tough call as to what to go with not knowing what the objects to be photographed are. And are they reflective or not. What are you actually photographing if you can say? that might help with more recommendations.

[Norman Sanders]

I neglected to mention that lighting of the object is separate from the background lighting.

[JJMack]

No matter what color chromakey you use there need to be some contrast between that color then any edge of your subject.  Green is not a good chromakey color for still images there will be too much chromakey spill in area like stray hairs. You would be better served with a natural chromakey color like a white Background.  However you will not be able to extract a subject with white hail from a white background.  I bride white dress etc

[fixthisphoto]

So realistically this task is not doable, as it is hypothesized?

To many variables, between the backgrounds and the objects?

[JJMack]

You seem to have control of what background you can use in the original image.  ie You are talking about studio images. Not image shot anywhere.  You need to have more than one background available for use.  The Best colors would be neutral colors.  For when lit they will not through a color cast and any chromakey spill will be easy to blend into the new background.

It done all the time.

[fixthisphoto]

Lots of good information. Yes I have been playing with lighting over the past few days, and it does seem to cast a shadow.

That might be a take down 3 walls, part to this?

It also seems that led light is putting a pink hue into my pictures , so I switched to vibrant colors on the camera to compensate.

It is a point and shoot, so we are at the beginner testing phase.

the objects are everyday sporting items, from tennis shoes to footballs, so there are some gloves in there that are white.

[Norman Sanders]

Sorry to say, a point-and-shoot will misread the lighting and produce underexposed images. In addition, Passport, or a similar color correcting device along with shooting RAW is essential. You are planning to bring your "studio" to the products, rather than your products to your studio. It would be wise to replan.

[fixthisphoto]

Yes and I was thinking white in the warehouse would not last long, it would be off white in a few months.

[fixthisphoto]

Background lighting and object lighting, something to consider, did not think of separating the two.

Not totally sure how to do that with out maybe some over head lighting.

[JJMack]

I think it is more a requirement then somthing to consider

[fixthisphoto]

The only problem, with ditching the point and shoot, is the "insurance cost"

I just previously replaced my old trusty that I had been using for at least a year, I dropped it and it went Kaput.

What is the least expensive camera, that I should look for and I do not need new, even 10 years old will be fine by me.

I can use sd card, the "new one" is a elph 330 hs probably 6 or 7 years old, but is my first with wifi.

So I do not have to take the sd card outt o get my pictures.