Ah, I completely overlooked that menu, thanks.
Clunky is right. In fact, ridiculously so when compared to
other schemes (even other Adobe products) but at least it displays
properly in the design window.
And I note with delight that the menu doesn't include a
multiplication symbol so I guess I'm back to manually inserting
html code--but at least multiplication symbols display correctly in
the design window.
No multiplication symbol but there is a heart. 'Cause heart
appears more often in help documents, I guess...