Jacob Bugge
Community Expert
Jacob Bugge
Community Expert
Activity
Mar 09, 2025
For my part you are welcome, Gareth, looking forward to your findings.
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Mar 09, 2025
1 Upvote
Gareth,
It sounds as if it could be a corrupt document; often it is possible to rescue some or all of the artwork by copying parts into a new document and testing whether things work there, much as you have done with one chord diagram.
This can be done in portions, maybe starting with half of them, continue if it works and try the other half if it fails, and so on.
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‎Mar 08, 2025
11:04 PM
Thank you very much for sgaring, utopiarchitect.
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‎Mar 08, 2025
10:30 AM
You are welcome, utopiarchitect.
As a curiosity, the first way can also be done like this, using the expanded Layer in the Layers palette:
1) Create a path that follows the border of the red shape;
2) In the Layer open the Group with the Clipping Mask, move the path from 1) down above the Clipping Path from 1). select both and apply Minus front;
3) Reapply the Clipping Mask.
May I ask which way you have used?
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‎Mar 08, 2025
10:06 AM
PonyxPony,
As I (mis)understand it, you can snap the top segment or each of its Anchor Points to the pale blue with Smart Guides, holding Shift to ensure vertical movement, but only if you have Smart Guides on and both Snap To Grid and Snap to Pixels off.
If either is on, Smart Guides will fail to guide you, however smart they are.
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‎Mar 08, 2025
09:54 AM
1 Upvote
utopiarchitect,
As I (mis)understand it, you can:
1) Release the Clipping Mask;
2) Create a path that follows the border of the red shape;
3) Select the Clipping Path from 1) and the path from 2) and apply Minus front;
4) Use the resulting Compound Path as the Clipping Path for the background.
To do it fully reversible, you can do the same as in 1) and 2), then:
3) Give the Clipping Path a white fill and give the new path a white fill and Group them;
4) Select the Group and the background and in the Transparency palette Make (Opacity) Mask with Clip ticked.
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‎Mar 08, 2025
03:47 AM
Xander,
Thank you for sharing.
The very conspicuous Attatchment Drag/drop has been with us after a forum software change five years and a half ago, and most use it until told about the well hidden Insert Photos.
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‎Mar 07, 2025
12:03 PM
Xander,
The attatchment is unavailable, at least to me, can you use the Insert Photos button at the top of the Reply box (looks like moon over mountains)?
It will show the image right there in the post, no need to (try to) open another Tab.
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Community Expert
in Photoshop ecosystem Discussions
‎Mar 07, 2025
11:53 AM
1 Upvote
‎Mar 07, 2025
11:53 AM
1 Upvote
Also, the zebra stripes are less striking to lions owing to their being colour blind.
So much so that a zebra can remain unseen in plain sight, if keeping (not least the tail) still.
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‎Mar 07, 2025
04:24 AM
Trevor,
In addition to what Monika said, it has also been suggested that the stripes work for the individual zebra even when singled out, by creating an illusion of her/his moving to opposite sides at the same time.
Maybe they could say "for your eyes only" to the lion(s and others with the same taste) in a strange literal way.
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Community Expert
in Photoshop ecosystem Discussions
‎Mar 05, 2025
09:34 AM
1 Upvote
‎Mar 05, 2025
09:34 AM
1 Upvote
A lovely wee bird
Found the best place in the sun
The old weathered trunk
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‎Mar 04, 2025
01:14 PM
Hendy,
1) I believe this answer from Bobby may give a glimpse of what is needed to ensure clear text (and other artwork) and how print based advice can go against it,
https://community.adobe.com/t5/illustrator-discussions/pixelated-linked-files-after-exporting-for-screens/m-p/14503451#M401887
2) PNG24 gives you a full set of colours, just like JPEG, where as PNG8 gives you a limited set of 256 colours, the same as GIF, just as Monika said. So no reason to consider it (for decades).
It is quite simple to multiply 8 times, or 16, times, or whichever number, with the Save for Web just by multiplying (*8 or *16 or whichever number) in the Image Size window.
3) You can see more about it here, under Import, export, and save,
https://helpx.adobe.com/illustrator/user-guide.html/illustrator/using/default-keyboard-shortcuts.html
and you can also look at some of the other subjects.
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‎Mar 04, 2025
04:06 AM
Ali, I believe those up there may be thinking twice, or rather thrice, about leaving the safety of the craft when seeing those down there.
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‎Mar 04, 2025
03:44 AM
Trevor, sorry for letting the cat out, but I am still convinced that your unedited version was sent back thence/whence the smoke > satellites and mirrors are finally in place, the original concept being over 100 years old,
https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20170314-the-town-that-built-a-mirror-to-catch-the-sun
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‎Mar 03, 2025
03:48 PM
Hendy, apologizing for the length, here is a slightly elaborated version of something I have posted earlier, with an answer to your question in context (obviously, you can only use PNGs where applicable, but the general considerations also apply to JPEGs):
If you wish to have PNGs (PNG24 (also (little) known as PNG32, it holds 24 bit colour and 8 bit Alpha channel (transparency)), of course) look crisp and clean, at least when it is (also) to be used at moderate screen resolutions, it is important to have the images in the exact desired final pixel x pixel size, or at sizes that are powers of 2 times as large, in other words 2x, 4x, 8x, and so on: the larger values can improve the appearance on high resolution screens and still ensure best possible appearance at low resolution screens, owing to controlled downsampling that gives exactly the same colour in each pixel at 1x as when created at 1x; or work at 72PPI or powers of 2 times as large (144PPI, 266PPI, 576PPI, and so on).
Forget about print related image resolution such as 300PPI which may actually lead to wrong sizes and hence blurriness, and to colour issues by uncontrolled downsampling.
It is easiest and safest to work at the desired size when creating the artwork.
It is important to remember that a raster image represents the whole appearance, including strokes, so to make sure you get it right you can click Use Preview Bounds in the General Preferences (and untick it afterwards).
A very common unsuitable way is to Export to PNG (remember to use PNG24 and use Transparency for artwork to be in front of different backgrounds) with a medium or high resolution, such as 300PPI.
And a common misunderstanding: (almost) 11 out of 10 times, a statement like "I created the document at 300 PPI" means that the value is chosen in Effect>Document Raster Effects Settings; however that only means that the (current) resolution of any raster effects applied to the vector artwork, such as (any kind of) Blur, is set to that value (and only unless/until the value is changed to something else); when zooming in, this resolution can be seen in contrast to and on the background of the vector artwork. So this setting has nothing whatsoever to do with the actual resolution of a raster image created from the (vector) artwork (but it ought to (at least) match it).
For clean and crisp artwork avoid JPEG; to get the colours right, you may wish/need to finalize by opening the PNG in PS (Photoshop) and attach the (missing) colour profile (such as sRGB) there.
It is also important to have the artwork and also the Artboard(s) placed fully within integer/whole pixel X and Y values in the Workspace, which means that the X and Y values at the corners must be integer; this can be ensured by using one of the corner Reference Points in the Transform palette, and then checking that all the values X, Y, W, and H, are integer (the centre Reference Point can only be used if both W and H are even numbers).
If you have issues with the Artboard(s), make sure the rulers are Global Rulers (RightClick), if not change from Artboard to Global Rulers; and to align your artboards, click the Rearrange All Artboards button in the Artboards panel. First posted by Ton here, https://community.adobe.com/t5/illustrator-discussions/why-is-illustrator-not-exporting-artboard-size/m-p/13350220#M343886
Otherwise the resulting image will become a bit wider/taller and the extension(s) will be empty and therefore be (partially) transparent/white.
Therefore, a safe way is to create the artwork at the final pixel x pixel size and use a corresponding Artboard, then use the Legacity Save for Web (where you can look in the Image Size window for size confirmation and possibly multiply by 2, 4, 8, whatever), or use Export at 72PPI (or 144/288/576/whatever PPI), or use Export for Screens (in either way). In either case, use the relevant optimization (available with both ways); it is also convenient to have 72PPI (or 144/288/576/whatever PPI) in the Effect>Document Raster Effect Settings.
If you have pure vector artwork, you can relax a bit and have the artwork/Artboard at any size (the Artboard must have the same proportions as the final image), then use the Legacity Save for Web and set either Width or Height in the Image Size and Apply (make sure the other value is also correct).
The Legacy Save for Web may be an old carthorse, but it knows its way home, even if the driver is drunk and sleeping it off in the hay in the back.
Or you can switch to SVG, if applicable.
https://helpx.adobe.com/search-results.html?q=svg&scope=%5B%22helpx%22%5D&subscope=%5B%5D&limit=10&start_index=0&sort_orderby=relevancy&sort_order=desc&post_facet_filters=%7B%22applicable_products%22%3A%5B%5D%7D
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‎Mar 03, 2025
03:55 AM
I am afraid there is no way to get round the different restrictions set up by different providers, Hendy.
All you can do is try to make the least worst of it. In this connexion, the doubling(s) of resolution/pixel x pixel number gives the best possible basis for a corresponding downsampling.
I hope you can get away with the times 4 when uploading.
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‎Mar 02, 2025
03:59 PM
Hendy,
Which file formats are accepted by myportfolio.com?
If SVG is included you can display vector artwork without worrying about resolution and blurriness/graininess/jaggedness, because SVG can keep it vector instead of raster.
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‎Mar 02, 2025
09:53 AM
Hendy,
Times 4 is fine. I always prefer doublings of 72PPI.
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Community Expert
in Photoshop ecosystem Discussions
‎Mar 02, 2025
08:05 AM
1 Upvote
‎Mar 02, 2025
08:05 AM
1 Upvote
Dean, I keep wondering whether there is a safe distance and what it might be (immediately and in the long run, literal meaning).
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‎Mar 02, 2025
07:55 AM
Hendy,
With Export for screens as suggested by Ton, you ought to be able to see the options in the screenshot.
Otherwise, you can use Save for Web and multiply by 2 in the Image Size window.
But my question was actually about your other question, the thread about Rounded only on the outside, where 4 different answers were given, hence the link in my post.
Edit: And what Monika said 56 seconds before this.
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‎Mar 02, 2025
03:45 AM
Jane, I agree with Dave about the good sleuthing. I thought he had been to Atacama and missed the desierto florido.
Dave, it would have beeen nice to see that bloom, but the barrenness gave other opportunities.
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‎Mar 01, 2025
09:33 AM
firash,
The top image shows that you have a number of open paths, the straight fill of curved paths ending at the end Anchor Points.
How have you tried to join them?
Are the open end Anchor Points of adjacent path coinciding or a bit off?
The best solution depends on the required quality of the artwork.
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‎Mar 01, 2025
04:00 AM
Xander,
As Monika said, there is only the hierarchy that you set up.
The stacking order is crucial to many things.
Normally, we just talk about objects, which can be individual paths or combinations of objects such as Groups and Clipping Masks/Sets and whatnot.
I believe you are heavily influenced by Ps concepts/Ps speak (Layers being a significant part), and it has proved to be a great hindrance to many because it is fundamentally different to Ai, the best approach then being to try to forget everything Ps and really start over and enjoy a completely different world of wonders.
In the Layers palette with the layer(s) expanded, you just have objects, and you can change the stacking order by dragging things up and down in the palette, or on the Artboard/workspace, some cunning ways using a combination of both.
But for simple things like a Clipping Mask, if only you have the Clipping Path on top, you just select all the relevant parts and apply the mask, and then everything finds its way to the place of the Clipping Path in the stacking order.
And for Divide Objects Below, if only you have the path on top, you just select only that, and when you apply the dividing the path disappears and the divided objects are in the same places in the stacking order, and you can just select the unwanted bits on the Artboard/workspace and delete them (and see them disappear in the Layers palette).
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‎Mar 01, 2025
02:16 AM
You are welcome, Xander.
I have improved the description of how to get the desired change, now with 3 steps.
It is easier if you use the all too well hidden Insert Photos button at the top of the Reply box (looks like moon over mountains) to have screenshots shown i the post, rather than the all too conspicuous attachment option which requires opening a new Tab (with things apart).
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‎Feb 28, 2025
04:50 PM
Xander,
For that kind of change, with Smart Guides being your friends, you can, for either arm or leg or separately for each:
Edit: The following is edited for easier work and fuller descriptions:
1) With the letter shape deselected, Click with the Direct Selection Tool on the outer segment of the leg (or) arm, then Ctrl/Cmd+C+F+X+F (hold Ctrl/Cmd and press C then F then X then F) to create a new path on top of everything (the one shown in red);
2) In the Transform palette Click the relevant corner Reference Point (top left for the leg), then increase the W or H value (you can multiply it by 2 or 3 or more) and press Ctrl/Cmd+Enter to keep the proportions;
3) With the Direct Selection Tool, ShiftClick both the the end Anchor Points of the (arm/)leg, then ClickDrag the outermost end corner along the cuide line as far as desired.
Only the original X shown here,
Click to get closer
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‎Feb 28, 2025
04:31 PM
Xander,
If you do something that actually cuts stroked paths, the shape/direction of the cut ends will be determined by the chosen Cap, Butt/Round/Projecting, basically perpendicular to the path direction at the end.
If you wish to have the (appearance of the) cuts follow a path that may be form any angle with (each of) the paths, you can:
A) If you just wish to hide the ends, use a closed path on top as a Clipping Path, selecting it together with the bunch of lines and creating a Clipping mask/Set; this is reversible;
B) If you can live with filled paths, Object>Path>Outline Stroke for the bunch of lines and use a closed path, or just an open one if only for one end, on top and (without selecting the bunch of line path) use Object>Divide Objects Below, then delete the outlying unwanted end parts; this is irreversible.
Remember to always make a backup of artwork before you destroy it.
Edit: Hi Kurt.
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‎Feb 28, 2025
03:32 PM
Xander,
As I (mis)understand it, you wish to stretch the right arm and leg (no joke) of the X so their ends go an infinitely long way to the right.
In that case the visible parts of the arm and the leg will just be a horizontal line with a width equalling their combined height at the centre of the X, in other words look like a Y turned +90 degrees.
If you mean that they are to be stretched far to the left but still with the ends visible, which will make them be rather thin at the ends, and presuming you have outlined the X, how about simply doing as follows?
1) Deselect the letter;
2) With the Direct Selection Tool ClickDrag across the outer ends of the right arm and leg (presumably selecting two Anchor Points at the top and two at the bottom);
3) Hold Shift while you ClickDrag this set of Anchor Points left until they are sufficiently far out;
or if you know how far out you wish to move them:
2B) Use Object>Transform>Move and set the Horizontal value to the desired distance.
Shown here with a Helvetica X, the perpetual one continuing past the red boundary,
Click to get closer
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‎Feb 28, 2025
06:06 AM
Timmy,
Is there a reason to have the Distress Group larger than the desired Bounding Box, rather than delete the outlying parts?
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Community Expert
in Photoshop ecosystem Discussions
‎Feb 28, 2025
03:27 AM
6 Upvotes
‎Feb 28, 2025
03:27 AM
6 Upvotes
Click to get closer, Click again to get closer still
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‎Feb 27, 2025
04:29 PM
2 Upvotes
David,
Back then, at the change of direction from what you wish (+ upwards), there was no open discussion about the matter in the forum, so most of us only found out after its happening.
It turned out that some had asked for the change (to + downwards), whereas everyone satisfied with the old way and no knowledge of a possible change had no reason to ask for anything, which presumably created the impression that there was a general wish for the change.
There were some exchanges of views afterwards.
As I remember it, the one reason given by those expressly supporting the change of direction was that it would then be the same as in Photoshop (for drawing which might as well have been + upwards), and for InDesign (for writing in lines obviously increasing downwards).
As I remember it, those expressing the wish to be able to keep working with the original + upwards direction had no objection to the opposite wish and therefore proposed the solution of an inbuilt optional direction so it was possible to simply choose the desired direction, and switch between the two.
As I remember it, no one expressly in favour of the change of direction supported the proposal of an optional direction.
As it appears from the link that Ton posted, some of us tried to find ways to change the direction, and Carlos @CarlosCanto created exactly the solution of an optional direction so it was possible to simply choose the desired direction, and switch between the two.
Unfortunately, it remains a solution unknown to almost everyone, only to be revealed when someone asks the obvious question as you just did, and someone knowing the solution tells about it as Ton did.
Until that change, all vector drawing applications had the same direction (+ upwards).
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