As noted in thread that Richard linked, apply either the FILL LEFT or FILL RIGHT effect to the vows audio track and then export again, that should fix it Thanks Jeff ... View more

Curious though - I've tried to apply Warp Stabilizer to 4K clips in HD sequence and it won't let me, wants me to do it at native resolution, so not clear on how you are applying it in that odd sequence size if clip is 8K. Also not getting how Warp is being used to reframe shots. I do that with Motion and keyframing. Lost me. Thanks Jeff ... View more

"leave the match sequence settings box checked next to resolution when exporting." Yes, that might be one solution. Export at sequence resolution and that is the "Master" video, then from that Master clip you can more quickly export other formats and sizes since the "heavy lifting" was all rendered and now it's just a "simple" transcode. Thanks Jeff ... View more

Just my opinion, but I think you'll be happier if you just apply Warp Stabilizer only to source clip, then EXPORT that clip to a good intermediate codec, then continue working with the new stabilized clip that no longer has Warp applied. Bug or no bug, I just feel that is a better, safer workflow. If one really understands the amount of work Warp is having to do to fix the clip, and then we're adding Nesting and maybe other effects and layers and such...and then scaling the output as well...I would just expect potential issues, whether this is a bug or not. It's just asking too much, too many ways for the sizing and scaling processes to go sideways in this workflow. This come from many years of working with Premiere and dealing with various workflow issues from time to time...I got in the habit in certain situations of doing things in steps. Like if using a Video DeNoiser, which took a tremendous amount of time to render (must faster these days with GPU help), I would run DeNoiser overnight to export a NEW, de-noised clip, then do the rest of my editing using the new source. In many situations when "compositing" layers in Premiere, it can be advantageous to export then continue with new clip. Actually can be pretty quick and smooth if you get used to that workflow. EDIT: will just add, if your source footage is shaky, why not fix it BEFORE you start editing? Just start with a GOOD clip and avoid the headaches is what I'm saying. Thanks Jeff ... View more

While there may be steps you can take to improve the results on Vimeo (I don't know what those might be), please keep in mind that no matter how good you get it looking on your hardware, you have no control over the hardware and software being used by others to view the video. That has always been the case going way back, whether for live TV broadcasts, or those of us making VHS and DVDs over the years for delivery. The video might look green on the viewer's display, and there is nothing I can do about that. Thanks Jeff ... View more

Could try VLC Media Player ... View more

In what app are you viewing the exported clip? Bring it back into Premiere, that is the only real way to fairly compare to original. You can lay above original and toggle the view to compare, or crop into a split screen, etc. Try disabling Hardware Encoding, see if the results are any different Thanks Jeff ... View more

I found this in the DSR-250 manual online, so it appears that you can adjust the balance/mix of outputting channels 1/2 and 3/4. However, no mention of whether that works over 1394. My guess would be NO and that 1394 will always send "video + audio 1/2" over 1394 and that the menu mix settings likely only change the analog outputs on playback. Would have to test. I actually had that camera model for a while about 20 years ago, but never tried the 3/4 audio channels. Thanks Jeff ... View more

Might have to use the analog audio outputs from camcorder and do it that way. Record into Audition through sound card input, or other audio app for recording. Then sync result in Premiere. ... View more

People say that YouTube transcodes whatever you send it, so one person I know of uploads everything as ProRes to get the best possible start for the transcode. If you have the bandwidth to do so, maybe try that. Thanks Jeff ... View more

Warp Stabilizer requires a lot of muscle to process, especially 4K, then you are combining color correction on top of that. Maybe try an alternate workflow - apply Warp only, then Export just that clip to an intermediate codec such as DNxHD (.mxf) or Cineform, then replace timeline clip with new stabilized version and then continue with color grading and such. Thanks Jeff ... View more

Jim is correct, but I typically use PNG with Alpha, so that I'm not dealing with a bunch of layers coming into Premiere, but just one file with transparency. Another tip - in PS, scale and save the still image to match the video resolution, for instance 1920x1080 or whatever your sequence is, so that it does not need to be scaled in Premiere. Unless you are keyframing/animating the scale (zooming) on this image in which case you may need the extra resolution if present. Thanks Jeff ... View more

Import the clip into Premiere. In Project Bin, right-click the clip and select New Sequence from Clip. This makes sure that the sequence matches the source clip for dimensions, frame rate, pixel aspect, and fields/progressive. The most common reason that a clip will appear cropped in the Program window is because the Sequence is smaller than the clip, and if clip has black around it, sequence is too big. For instance putting a 1080p clip in a 720p sequence, it will be cropped for sure. EDIT: did not see your reply Neil, since I had started to respond earlier and got pulled away, thus the overlap Thanks Jeff ... View more

Should not need the black layer at all, just lower opacity of bottom clip (blurred clip) if you want that darker. Keep it simple. Thanks Jeff ... View more

This common problem has been covered recently Pixelation of red graphics during export ... View more

The Atomos - or any external recorder for that matter - will record EXACTLY what it gets over the HDMI input. If you have the OSD junk from camera enabled on the HDMI output, then that will be recorded with the video, it's embedded in the picture. Not to be harsh, but the monitor on the Atomos shows you what you are recording, so if that stuff was all showing up on Atomos screen when you did the recording, well....no good excuse for this to happen. Hoping that you were also recording to SD card? Always a good idea for backup in any case, cheap insurance. The SD card version will not have the OSD stuff on it. I recorded weddings for 25 years, important to be completely familiar with your gear since there are no second chances with that footage. That said, I am sorry this happened and hope you can fix it, I know how you must feel (yes, I made mistakes in weddings and learned the hard way myself...). Thanks Jeff ... View more

Rodney - "I have a d800 and I wouldn't in a million years, with a big fat pig editing computer, use that material " Aren't you still on CS6? CC with good GPU could make a big difference ... View more

Or grab a still from timeline and examine in Photoshop ... View more

Hi Chris, I see that Profile is set to High, try changing to Main or Baseline, and also try disabling the Hardware Encoder. What H.264 preset did you use to begin with? Thanks Jeff ... View more

What Jim said. When you EXPORT, is everything okay? If Yes, then end of story. There's no need to even render the timeline unless effects are too heavy for smooth playback/preview to check your edits. A lot of Mac users coming from FCP are used to always rendering the timeline, don't know if that's the case here. Not necessary with Premiere. Red, yellow, and green render bars and what they mean | Adobe Blog Thanks Jeff ... View more

Please share a screenshot of the full Export Settings panel so we can verify all the export settings and look for any issues there. One thing to check is make sure that you are only exporting the correct length of video - if there is some stray piece of media orphaned somewhere off the right side of the timeline, the export duration will increase to include that piece as well. Thanks Jeff ... View more

You mentioned "the bar is green", so does than mean you pre-rendered the timeline? If so, try to delete rendered files under Sequence > Delete Render Files. It is not necessary to "render" the timeline prior to final export usually, this is only done on the occasion that you can't play/preview the video due to too many effects, then you might render a portion to check it out. A screen shot of the Export Settings window will be helpful in troubleshooting. Turn OFF the Frame Blending, that would only be used if Source and Export are different frame rates which is not usually the case. What is the source video? If using a phone, those often times record Variable Frame Rate video, which can cause editing issues. If source is VFR, try converting to Constant Frame Rate, usually 29.97, using the free https://handbrake.fr/ application. Lastly, as a workaround to try and get the project completed, export to something other than H.264, then if that clip comes out okay, transcode that good clip to H.264 for final delivery. Try using DNxHD or ProRes export for example, and be sure to match video dimensions and frame rate to source/sequence. Thanks Jeff ... View more

I see that the SOURCE is at 100fps while EXPORT is 60fps, is this correct/intentional? Also, would be helpful to see expanded Export Settings panel to view all export settings Thanks Jeff ... View more

File > New > Black Video Put the black video clip on V1 track on timeline and adjust to one second duration File > New > Color Matte Create a still image in choice of bright color. Drop that onto V2 track right above the black clip. Trim to desired duration (one frame?) and place as desired as many times as needed for one second (depending on desired rate of flash). Note that the + key is used to zoom in on timeline to see frames, - (minus) to pull back. One you have created the one-second clip with flashes the way you want them, click and drag the mouse to select/highlight all the frames/clips and then do Ctrl-C to Copy, then Ctrl-V to Paste. HOLD DOWN the Ctrl-V and it will continue pasting rapid-fire to fill a longer duration. As mentioned in other post, maybe you need to work in a 60p sequence to get desired flash duration with more precision? Historically, we had NTSC television (before HD) and that was always interlaced, so while there were 29.97 FRAMES per second, it also had 59.94 FIELDS per second, meaning the screen was redrawn 59.94 times every second, so if old TVs were triggering seizures then maybe the 59.94p video (60p) will get you closer to where you need to be than 24p? Thanks Jeff ... View more

I'm not clear on the math yet of what duration you are needing the flashes to be, but just keep in mind that if you use a sequence at 29.97 or 59.94fps (video) or 30 or 60fps (computer playback) then you can achieve greater "precision" meaning each frame of video is shorter in duration, so perhaps allowing you to get closer to the flash rate you need versus 24fps with frames of longer duration. Thanks Jeff ... View more