Print requirement: Maintaining Exact Image Placement Across Languages
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Hi, I am working on my first book layout and read through the documentation from the printer. This requirement seems a bit odd to me:
Language Mutations
Complete CMYK data for each language version (the exact placement of images must be maintained across all language versions).
How is it even possible to have the exact placement? The German version has way more text than the English version. In addition, in some areas, the graphics are slightly larger or smaller so that they fit better into the layout. Is this normal, or am I misunderstanding something?
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@muhammad_9494The image placement is the same, but in the German version, it might be on page 18, and in the English version, it might be on page 17, due to there being more copy in the German version. Also, in the English version, it might be slightly smaller to fit better into the layout. Does this matter?
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This requirement is most likely because they expect to change only the single plate that carries the text for each language.
If anyting else changes, no matter how slightly, they must make all new plates for that page and do a new make-ready cycle, and tht increases the cost dramatically.
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@Peter Spier So that means every single graphic and image needs to have the exact same size across both books?
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@Peter SpierBut does it matter if a graphic is placed on a different page in one version due to a different text amount?
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Yes, unless you talk to the printer and arrange for something different, but be prepared for a major price increase.
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@Peter Spier Thank you! But this is ok right? But does it matter if a graphic is placed on a different page in one version due to a different text amount?
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Yes. Any change in page counts or layout must be discussed with the printer.
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OK, I see that answer is confusing. It does matter if a graphic is moved, whether on the same page or to a new page.
The objective here is that there should be only one press setup for the colored prtions of the book, and that those plates can be left in place while a separate black plate containing the text is switched for each language.
This would be true on a traditional offset printing press. Digital presses would be more flexible since they don't use plates. Your book might not be a good fit for this printer.
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Thank you for your help! I had one more question related to creating print-ready files.
All of my images and vectors have been imported as AI and PSD files. In their documentation, they mentioned Bitmap, and I was wondering if I need to do anything here. Should all images and vectors be converted to Bitmap?
Sorry if this is a bit of a dumb question—I'm fairly new to all of this
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Should all images and vectors be converted to Bitmap?
Sorry if this is a bit of a dumb question—I'm fairly new to all of this
By Mateomono
Your image formats should be fine, and it would be a mistake to convert vector (.ai files) to bitmaps (pixel based fromat).
The charts you show above list the best resolutions for your pixel-based images (your .psd files). The term Contone means continuous tone, rather than only black or white (bitmap mode in Photoshop) which is the 1 bit reference.
AM screen would be a "conventional halftone, where the size of the dots varies to make the tone darker or lighter. FM, or stochastic, screening uses lots of uniformly sized smaller dots and varies how closely placed they are to regulate the tone. FM screening is a good choice for images that are more "art" than "information" in nature as they tend to be smoother in appearance.
Remember that the resolution reference here is for "effective resolution" at the size the image will be printed, not the resolution saved in the file. Scaling an image up on your page reduces the effective resolution in inverse proportion. It's a good idea to turn on the view of the effective resolution column in your Links Panel, and to include it as part of a pre-flight profile. Vector images have no pixels, so no resolution and are equally crisp at any scale.
Deviations from the recommended resolutions, especially small ones, are not necessarly fatal, depending on the type of image and level of detail, but you should be mindful of them.
As someone new to this you should try to maintain close contact with someone at the printer who can guide you.
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Hey there, no worries at all there's really no such thing as a dumb question when it comes to print prep. The short answer is: you generally don't need to convert everything to Bitmap.
When a print guide refers to “bitmap,” they’re typically talking about raster (pixel-based) images at a certain resolution, not literally asking you to convert all your AI (vector) or PSD (layered) files into 1-bit black and white.
Vector artwork (like AI or EPS) is resolution-independent, so you want to keep it in that format whenever possible for the sharpest print quality. PSD files are also fine as long as their resolution is appropriate (usually 300 dpi for standard colour images, and higher for line art).
The “ideal” resolutions they mention (300 dpi for contone, 600 dpi for fine screens, 1200 dpi for line art, etc.) are basically guidelines for any raster images you might have. If you have an actual black and white line-art piece (like a pen-and-ink illustration), that’s when you might make it strictly 1-bit (bitmap mode) at 1200 dpi to keep those lines razor-sharp.
But if your images are already in AI or PSD with proper resolution and colour mode (CMYK if it’s going to press), you’re golden. Keep them that way. No need to flatten or convert to 1-bit unless your printer specifically demands it.
edit* @Peter Spier sorry for interjecting at the same time as your post.
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@Eugene Tyson No worries. I'm a very slow typist.
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@Eugene Tyson @Peter Spier Thank you both for your amazing explanations!
So it seems it won't be necessary for me to convert anything to Bitmap. However, I was wondering if this image here might be the exception? Could I also ask you guys some other small questions related to creating a print ready file?
Thank you very much again 🙂
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What's the context for the image? Is it important to see the gray background, or is it a distraction? It looks to me like you've actually got two copies on the page, one a grayscale scan (or it problably should be converted to grayscale if it isn't) and one that's an enhanced bitmap rendering.
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@Peter SpierIt's one image, and the content is a historic sketch that was drawn on a wall. The left version shows how it might have looked, and the one next to it shows it without the background. It's actually one image.
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@Eugene Tyson @Peter Spier Also, I just had one tiny question regarding print-ready files. What exactly are these formats referenced here(Image 1)? Is it the same as image 2?
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Eugene Tyson Peter Spier Also, I just had one tiny question regarding print-ready files. What exactly are these formats referenced here(Image 1)? Is it the same as image 2?
By Mateomono
Unless specifically requested by the printer - use the last one on the list.
It's a version / format of the PDF standard.
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The PDF/X standards on the right of your screen capture are based on one or more of the PDF version specifications on the left. PDF/X-4 is based on version 1.6 and seems to be supported by the printer, so I would suggest that would be the best choice.
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@Eugene Tyson And now the roles are reversed.
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I think they're refering to compatiblity which is on the right
When you choose PDFX4a it will jump to Acrobat 7 (PDF 1.)
PDF X is a family of ISO standards designed to make sure that print files come out exactly as intended. They are the no-nonsense way of packaging a document for reliable printing.
PDF X-1a is the go-to for archiving print-ready files. It locks in everything you need by embedding fonts and images and sticks to standard colour spaces like CMYK and spot colours.
So it doesn't support things like Transparency - all your images would be flattened and you get screen artifacts where it might look broken up - but these don't print.
PDF X-3 takes a more flexible approach to colour. It not only does what PDF X-1a does but also lets you use device-dependent colour spaces, such as RGB, provided that you embed the right colour profiles. This makes it handy when you want to keep your workflow colour managed and have more leeway with images.
It's this one that most people use
PDF X-4 is the modern kid on the block. It builds on the strengths of PDF X-3 but adds support for newer design features like transparency and layers. This means you can enjoy more creative freedom while still keeping the file print-ready and predictable.
So this does allow for transparency
Transparency flattening affects colours that are overlapping and merging to form new colours, anything this overprinting or have use of the Effects panel will be flattened.
Transparency Flattening effect - basically breaks up the image into the overlapping colours where new colours are being made
When Flattening is LIVE which is preferred the images are not broken down into the individual shapes
You can completely move them around the exported pdf
Flattened transparency, especially if it ends up getting rasterised which can happen, can lead to pixelation if the output resolution is higher than the rasterisation resolution = could be too low resolution on output for what's required.
Keeping it live means the printers RIP will keep it as high resolution as possible for output.
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@Eugene TysonThank you for your input! Here, however, it seems like it should be PDF/X-1. But maybe this is referring to something else from the above-mentioned questions?
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That's fine if they only accept PDFx1a - then you set your PDF compatibility to 1.3 - which it automatically picks - which they also accept
Most people prefer PDFx4a - but some have not moderinised their workflows, so PDFx1a is what they want.
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Peter SpierIt's one image, and the content is a historic sketch that was drawn on a wall. The left version shows how it might have looked, and the one next to it shows it without the background. It's actually one image.
By Mateomono
Color Mode? What's the current effective resolution?
The right hand half would normally be considered line art and you would want it in bitmap mode at 1200 ppi effective resolution, while the left would be continuous tone grayscale. If you have sufficent image data to do it, dividing it into two images in the two modes would give you better reproduction.
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I see! I will make does adjusments! Thank you!


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