I have a photograph, I'd like to cut the photograph into a jigsaw shape. The way I would do this is to place the jigsaw shape in a layer above the photograph, move it to the correct position and then, on the jigsaw layer select the jigsaw by Cmd - Clicking on the jigsaw piece layer thumbnail, then I would move down to the photograph layer below, Select > Inverse and delete the photo that falls outside of the jigsaw piece (I have attached two photos to show what I mean).   What I'd like to know is, is this a precise way of selecting an object (e.g. I want nice smooth edges to the jigsaw piece, not jagged) I think I remember years ago there was another button you clicked at the same time as cmd that made sure you selected all the required pixels precisely and cleanly to give you as smooth and crisp an edge as possible, is there still a way to do this or is what I am doing fine?   I just tried the new Object Selection tool, this selects the jigsaw piece also but does this select it more or less precisely than Cmd - Clicking or will it achieve the same results?   Just to say, I'm not wanting to mask off the jigsaw piece as the finished jigsaw piece will be made up of three layers as I have effects on all of them and I will then want to add a drop shadow the bottom jigsaw layer (of the three) and don't believe I can do this without cutting the jigsaw piece(s) out.    ... View more

I'd like to have more leading between my bullet points (20pt) but keep the leading as standard (13pt) for the rest of the body text e.g. like the third bullet point shows - it's 20pt from the bullet above but the 'advise and train volunteers' is 13pt is only from the rest of the sentence's text above.    I know how to do this manually but I'd like to add it to a Paragraph Style in order to add it to all my bullets throughout my booklet but it isn't registering it when I save it to a new Paragraph Style (when I highlight text and try and change it my new style it doesn't change anything). The example on the right is what I'm trying to add to a Paragraph Style.   Also, when I try to Redefine Style on my existing bullet point style, it is greyed out and I haven't a clue why, can anyone help please? ... View more

I am planning on converting all the HEIC photos from my iPhoneXS to JPG's using the batch conversion (Scripts > Image Processor) in Photoshop.     On a test run I see that the original HEIC photo's EXIF data (left hand side on my screen snap) states the Created, Modified and Content Created info as the date and time when the photo was taken but in converting it to JPG (right hand side of my screen snap) the Created and Modified data gets changed to today's (or the day I'm converting it) date and time, it's not the end of the world but I just want to check that once converted the EXIF data on the JPG will definitely keep the date and time the original photo was actually taken, and as much of the original EXIF data as possible?   I see that Content Creator (in my screen snap) has changed to Photoshop from the version of IOS on my iPhone so does anyone know what other data might get lost in the conversion process please?     I also want to ask, as I know very little about HEIC files, if peeps think it's okay to just keep the HEIC files as is and not worry about converting them? I know the HEIC files are more compressed than JPG's, does that mean they have a reduced picture quality to a JPG and if they don't, will I be reducing quality by making them into JPG's?   The reason I ask this is because one of the ways I have seen to convert a HEIC image to JPG is to use Preview on a Mac, here the picture quality can be increased to make the HEIC file jump from 2.8MB to around 5 or 6MB, making it seem like the HEIC image quality can be increased and the file can be uncompressed? My imagination might be working overtime here!    And one last thing, when batch converting in Photoshop does it keep the best quality of the photo whilst converting or does it apply any further compression?    ... View more

Keeping images as PSD's for repro is all a bit new to me as I've always saved my images for repro as 300ppi CMYK jpgs but I want to learn more about keeping my images as PSD's in my InDesign documents.   I have an image with a transparent background (the jigsaw piece shown in my image below) and have a few questions:   1) As I write this I realise I cannot flatten the psd as I have asked in my heading because I will lose the transparent background, but should I delete all the other layers in my psd that aren't in use before I pdf my document from InDesign (e.g. tidy up my psd layers in Photoshop so no unused layers get printed from my PSD by mistake)?   2) By dropping an unflattened PSD (the jigsaw piece) into InDesign with a transparent background, will this stay transparent when printed, it won't flatten with a white box around when it is made into a PDF will it?    3) I think I have read that I can keep the PSD's as RGB and they will get converted to CMYK in the PDF-ing process, is this true, can this be done? I have never done this before as I always change my images from RGB to CMYK manually in Photoshop. If it is something that happens in the PDF-ing process do I need to select something specific when choosing my PDF specs / options?   4) One last thing, I am keeping my images as PSD's as I am concerned that JPG's are lossy and therefore PSD's will print better quality images, is this the case or would flattened TIFF's with a transparent background be a better bet?   ... View more