Thank you, William. Note that we are talking about the bottom of the page that has a larger border, not the side. (The image is flipped on its side.  What you see is not unusual - it varies depending on the printer. I don't think you have successfully turned on borderless printing - as a test, try setting the margins to zero - if you can't, then you haven't. Of course an alternative is to trim the page after printing. 😉 ... View more

If it doesn't work, please provide a screenshot that includes the entire preview window (showing image on paper), along with the Layout panel. ... View more

What happens if you try my approach anyway, William? ... View more

Good catch on the different file sizes - I had missed that nuance. Regarding your question, "What I am looking for is the best values to use so that whatever size print I choose to have made will be the best", use the PPI that your printing service tells you to use; if you're printing yourself, use the native resolution of the printer (or save time by printing from Lightroom). ... View more

Unfortunately exporting from mobile is very limited - there are no settings to be set other than metadata options and watermarking.  For what it's worth, a PPI of 72 vs. 300 makes no difference ​ other than saving you from having to type in print PPI if you're printing from Photoshop - it doesn't affect file size or quality. ... View more

Since your screenshot of the print preview only shows the top of it, I'm not clear - are you saying that there's more space at the bottom than at the top? If so, that is most likely your printer's bleed area - that can't be overridden, unless you change to borderless printing - go into Print Settings, and in your printer driver turn on borderless printing. Then adjust the margins in Lightroom as you wish to. ... View more

If your test version had modules along the top right - Library, Map, Develop, Book, Slideshow, Web, and Print, that is Lightroom Classic CC: If not, then you were using Lightroom CC: Your subscription comes with both. Use the Creative Cloud application to uninstall the one you don't want: on the Apps tab, find the unwanted app, click on the dropdown to the right of Open (or Update), choose Manage, and then Uninstall: I would bet that the test one is still installed - you'll see it listed. ... View more

I used to recommend to everyone to turn on "Automatically write changes to XMP" in Catalog Settings, figuring that this XMP save is a great extra backup of work (though not a complete one). I have stopped recommending it for most people though, and these confusing and annoying messages are one of the primary reasons (not to mention that it can also bog LR down). IMO since you're not working with any other programs (like Bridge), as long as you back up your catalog frequently, and either your catalog backups are saved to a different drive or you back up your drive regularly, you don't need to save to XMP.  If you're not saving to XMP, you won't get the warning. As Johan mentioned, you can also turn off the warning: go into View>View Options, and uncheck "Unsaved Metadata". ... View more

Make a Second Copy came up in this discussion, so I'll just say that for your main backup of photos, I wouldn't suggest relying on this option in Import, as you'll find that the backups do not replicate your folder structure. Instead the files go in "Imported on XX..." folders. This makes it very difficult to use these to restore from following a hard drive crash. In addition, If you're saving metadata to files (writing to XMP), the metadata doesn't make it to these. Instead, use one of the many good ideas here for backup/sync software to back up all your user files, including photos and catalog, to another drive, preferably two, and also to the cloud. (I use Backblaze for the latter.) Make a Second Copy is good for storing an archive copy of your original files (at the time of import) so that if one of your master files becomes corrupted, you can retrieve a replacement. ... View more

The reason it goes dead when you choose File Format "Original" is that Original designed to give you an exact copy of your original raw (or JPEG) file - so resizing is not an option.  It's also not an option if you're exporting a video file. ... View more

I'll add that collections aren't physical locations - they are just virtual groupings of photos, like iTunes playlists or Amazon wish lists. ... View more

Welcome to Lightroom! On this page I have a couple of video tutorials on importing photos. (They were made with an earlier version of Lightroom but are still applicable). Here are some more articles and videos to get you started. ... View more

For the sake of completeness: you can also type in specific Hex or RGB % values. ... View more

A full range of colors is available. By default the color picker dialog shows white to black. Click in the vertical bar on the right to reveal the full range of colors. You'll find that the vertical bar controls saturation, Hue is set by moving across the main box, and Brightness/Lightness, moving up or down in the main box.  Brown is just dark yellow or dark orange. ... View more

I can't speak to the size of the Previews file, but to minimize preview building, you can choose Embedded and Sidecar in Import, and the LR Library module will use the preview that your camera has embedded in the raw file. However, this may well look different from LR's rendering and may be smaller than the full-size file, and as soon as you edit a photo, LR will move to building its own Standard preview. In the meantime, LR still has to store the embedded preview in the Previews file. If you scroll down in this blog post you'll find a video tutorial on the Embedded Preview workflow. ... View more

Looks like @dj_paige and I were answering at the same time.  The Import choices are really a choice of "build right away upon import" vs. build later as you need them. If you choose Minimal as you import, Standard previews will be built as you view the photos in Loupe view (and you may see the "Loading" message), and 1:1 previews will be built if/when you zoom in. ... View more

For future Lightroom users with this issue, once you determine that a backup catalog will work for you*, then here's what I recommend: - Close LR. - Go to your main catalog .lrcat file (that is corrupted). If you have never moved your catalog, then it's in Pictures>Lightroom, and should be the most recently modified one. Rename this file (for example, add "corrupted" to the name, before the .lrcat extension). - Copy the backup .lrcat file into the same location as your main catalog. (For anyone wondering why I recommend this route, it enables you to continue using the old Previews file. If the user has missing files, LR wouldn't otherwise be able to rebuild the previews. Seeing previews helps understand what photos are missing, and sometimes files have been accidentally deleted and previews represent the only chance for recovering any form of the images.) - Double-click on this .lrcat file to launch LR with it. - As @Just Shoot Me says, go into Edit (PC) or Lightroom (Mac)>Preferences, and on the General tab under default catalog, click on the dropdown and choose the first one that lists the full file path. *To determine whether a backup will work, go into your Backups folder (usually in Pictures>Lightroom), and double-click on the most recent date/time folder to open it. Double-click on the .zip file to unzip it, and then double-click on the .lrcat file to launch Lightroom with the backup. If it launches successfully, then go through the process above. ... View more

You can get the version numbers of both Lightroom and your operating system by going, in Lightroom, to Help>System Info. If you are not getting an error message when importing, then let us know what is it that signals to you that you can't import - for example, are the images grayed out in the Import dialog? ... View more

Is there any chance that you still have a copy of these in the Photos app? ... View more

Whoops - thank you, Jim! ... View more

If the backup doesn't have your book, then you can get back to your main catalog by going to Open Recent - it will be the second in the list (with the one you're looking at as the first in the list.) ... View more

I'm sorry to hear that you lost your book, Michel! This is unfortunately very common. While creating a saved book is important, additionally, the best way to protect yourself against losing a book is to back up your catalog very frequently as you build the book. Go to Edit (PC) or Lightroom (Mac) >Catalog Settings, and set the backup frequency to "Every time Lightroom exits." Then close LR frequently and back up. If you have backed up LR recently, then open a catalog backup and see if it has your book - the location of catalog backups is specified in the backup prompt that comes up when you close LR. Go to that  folder, open a recent zip file and double-click on the .lrcat file and have LR relaunch with it. If this has your book (and you don't mind losing any other work that you did since that backup), then close LR, and copy that catalog file out of the backups folder into your main catalog folder, renaming it as well. Then double-click on it to launch LR with it. Finally, go to Edit or Lightroom>Preferences, and under default catalog, click on the dropdown and choose that catalog, so that LR always launches it from now on. ... View more

Hi Herman, You write: "...  then created a book of only 3 photos using the same folder but this time I manually selected only 3 photos which I then save.  The book appeared as a book with 3 photos but on the left side collections panel it said I had used 68 photos not the 3 that I actually used.  Further in the filmstrip only those 3 photos I had in the book were noted with a 1 as being included." When you saved your book, you most likely did not check the option to "include only used photos". Therefore the saved book collection still has 68 photos, even though only three are used.  (The Collections panel, for saved books, doesn't indicate how many photos are used in the book, just how many are in the collection, available to make the book with.) I don't see a problem with this. In your description you mention folders and collections as the source for your book, so I'm not sure I'm sorting this out correctly, but: when you initially start a book using a collection or folder as the source, LR remembers that book as being associated with that folder or collection - regardless of whether you then create a special "saved book" collection.  I assume that you saved the book as a book collection, and then deleted this - but LR still has a "memory" of that 68 page book associated with your original collection or folder. Perhaps I'm missing something, but I don't see a problem with this either.  Please add more details and/or screenshots if you believe that I'm not understanding something here. ... View more

Since you're not getting an answer here, I'd suggest posting on Adobe's bug/feedback site - Adobe staff participates there. ... View more

I can't say what's faster, but to answer your question, "Is there anyway to perform all the I/O intensive operations locally on my SSD and then move the files after it is done processing and converting up to the NAS?", the answer is yes. In the Import dialog, in the Destination panel in the bottom right, choose a destination on your SSD. After import, once the operations are complete, in the Folders panel in Library, drag the folder from the SSD to a folder on your NAS. ... View more

To check permissions, if you're on a Mac, go out to Finder, find the folder, then right-click on it and choose Get Info. At the bottom you'll see permissions - check for Read and Write. On a PC, in Explorer, right-click and choose Properties. ... View more

Process version can be found in the Calibration panel - bottom right in Develop - , at the top of that panel. Change it to 4. If you're not using the most current process version, you'll also see a lightning bolt below the histogram - another way to update is to click on that. I think of process version as the develop-technology version - when the Lightroom team improves editing tools, they don't apply those improvements automatically to all your images, because improvements can change the appearance of your edited images. Instead, you choose to update the process version if/when you want to do further editing on an image. (For the update from PV 3 to 4, applying any further edits will automatically update the PV to 4 unless you happen to have done prior adjustment brush work with auto mask.) If your images aren't at least in PV 3, you won't see Dehaze. ... View more