Re: A3 PDF massive on A3 photoshop file?

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 23, 2017

Hi Jeds, I think this is likely a resolution issue. Lets forget about other applications for the moment as it clouds the issue. I am guessing that the new A3 document you are creating has a low resolution by default. You'll need to take control of that setting. Why? - the "old" A3 Photoshop file you are bringing in and the new A3 in Photoshop need to be the exact same resolution in Pixels per inch or Pixels per cm. Try this: First open one of those old A3 Photoshop files you made - into Photoshop. Just open, don't try to drag it into a"new" document (new file). Go to image / size and check resolution there. Look at Pixels per inch or Pixels per cm. make a note. Close the image file. Now make a new file "file/ new" and when doing that make sure the resolution is set the same as your old file - in Pixels per inch or Pixels per cm. Now try dragging that old A3 Photoshop file into the new document you made. let us know how it goes please oh, and when using the photoshop ruler to compare file sizes in this situation - make sure it's set to measure in pixels, because a physical image "size" like A3 is only set by a resolution formula relating to file pixels i.e. "X many pixels = X inches" I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct" below, so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 20, 2017

Hi adams.j, ah, OK, so photos isn't working, I don't think the old iPhoto would have done any better - please have a look at my reply and try those other options. it would be good to know how you get on

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 20, 2017

D Fosse wrote: "No chain is stronger than its weakest link." & "spend your money where it makes a difference" That’s a great way of putting it. The display screen is no place to be making a decision based on low price. The best you can afford is the way to go, but only if the images that you are editing are important to you. As a color management guy I go out to work with image users on site all the time. I never met anyone who was disappointed they bought Eizo Coloredge. I hope this helps thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 20, 2017

Hi Try this: Do one of the following: (Windows) Choose Edit > Preferences > File Handling. (Mac OS) Choose Photoshop > Preferences > File Handling. Set the following options: File Extension (Windows) Choose an option for the three-character file extensions that indicate a file’s format: Use Upper Case to append file extensions using uppercase characters, or Use Lower Case to append file extensions using lowercase characters. Append File Extension (Mac OS) File extensions are necessary for files that you want to use on or transfer to a Windows system. Choose an option for appending extensions to filenames: Never to save files without file extensions, Always to append file extensions to filenames, or Ask When Saving to append file extensions on a file-by-file basis. Select Use Lower Case to append file extensions using lowercase characters. I see D Fosse answered for Windows system defaults (i.e. to globally show or hide file exteions) I think he's right, but maybe you're using a mac? In all versions of OS X you can choose whether or not to show file name extensions the in Finder 1. From the Mac OS X Desktop, pull down the “Finder” menu and choose “Preferences” 2. Click on the “Advanced” tab (gear icon) 3. Check the box next to “Show all filename extensions” The setting to reveal filename extensions should be immediate, though some versions of OS X have a slight delay for revealing the extensions on visible files. This can be expedited by simply toggling the setting again to immediately display them I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 20, 2017

Hi adams.j hope I can help So, you have old Photoshop files which you can't open on a Mac. You didn't say what version of OSX you're using, it may make a difference to the advice you need but there goes anyway. I am guessing that you are simply double clicking the files name in the mac finder which is when the error message about Photoshop 3 pops up? For now, I'd avoid adding ".psd" to the end of the filename because 1: you don't KNOW it's a .psd file and 2: the psd filetype is pretty much for for photoshop (and a few other Adobe apps) only. It's a special file format. If you did save as .psd filetype from Photoshop a while back then you may have files which it seems only Photoshop can open now. But there are some ideas below, please read on. First try this: if you highlight the filename in it's folder and click the spacebar on your keyboard do you get a window open showing the image? If so you may see "open in preview" at the top of the frame. If you click that then save the file will open in preview next time you double click it. However, if i try this with a psd file then it offers "open in Photoshop" so that may not help you. Also, OSX has an application called "photos", what I do with files I'd like in my "photos" library is to open the "photos" app. then go to the menu file/import, select the file and it should be added to your library so you can view and edit it there. I am using OSX 10.10 and when I test it on a .psd file I can import then open it. But the layers in the file (if any) will have been flattened, maybe that’s OK for you? If the OSX "Photos" app is telling you that the files are incompatible and my spacebar tip above did not help, then maybe you need Photo editing app like GIMP (it's open source freeware) that can open psd files. [ download it here: https://www.gimp.org/downloads/ ]. Gimp can open a psd but it can't work with the all layers, so they'll need to be rasterised. Why not try it? It's not an exactly straight forward software to use so ionce tyo get the files open maybe save as tif and then they will be more widely compatible. The "photopea" online editor might work too. [ https://www.photopea.com/ it works on a .psd file for me and shows the layers properly too. There are other options, if none of the above helps try googling "open a psd file without photoshop" If your files are tif or Jpeg all, the above options should work fine too. I hope this helps please come back and let us know how it goes. if sot helped, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so that others who have similar issues can find the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 10, 2017

Hi Noguestpost thanks for the status now you have the profile working and visible in photoshop (I renamed the internal tag) perhaps report on whether it helps, sadly I don't expect it to thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 10, 2017

Hi, I wanted to edit the post above but for some reason I am not allowed - so please read this instead! Having thought about it a bit more I realise that converting from sRGB to your "uncalibrated" display colourspace isn't going to work! pressed send too soon!!! read on though, there's help below I hope i can help with that . Sorry this is late, I had attempted to post it a few minutes after your original but for some reason it had not appeared! Anyhow, I hope it MIGHT contain some useful help? The method you're suggesting in your original post shows you've given it some thought but really I don't feel it's going to help you. By the way the "default" display profile which is produced by OSX [e.g. "ColorLCD"] can't easily be assigned to your files. It's NOT a normal ICC profile in that it has a weird naming strategy [displayed name in Photoshop is not what you'd expect]. And, anyway, I feel pretty strongly that would not fix your issue. You CAN assign "custom" display profiles, ones you made [I can do that here], but NOT the default which is made by OSX first time it encounters a connected display. SEE below for a way to fix that. SO - I can see your thinking - BUT - Where you are now = when you set the "wrong" display profile in System preferences your images look right - OK, so that's an sRGB tagged image being converted to the display colourspace by photoshop on the fly (just for display). BUT the display colorspace you used is wrong so your files have been edited whilst you were being misled. The display profile basically does one thing, it tells applications like Adobe Photoshop (and OSX) how to adjust image data on its way to the screen to give correct appearance. That’s IT. Here's an extreme example - imagine your screen was ageing and somehow had a green caste - Photoshop would (just for the preview) add magenta to image data en route to the screen to make them look right on the screen. If Photoshop did not do that you'd be tempted by the onscreen appearance to think your image had a green caste and to edit the file to get rid of the caste - but the image does not have a caste, so - that's not good. Screens are not usually that bad, though - but, still, it's always worth using the right profile. [ideally one you made for that screen using a colorimeter and a decent calibration & profiling utility]. You can see from the above example that what's happened in your case is that the "false" display profile will (perhaps) have misled you as to image appearance. So you may have made some ill advised edits. It's probably not much of an issue, but here's how to assess and fix it. Do not alter the colourspace of your edited image, leave it as it was. It was sRGB I think, leave it light that. If you've made colourspace changes like that and you can't remember them to revert to sRGB, then just carry on from here. Open your Apple system preferences / displays and set the colour tab to the right icc profile for your screen. Like you mentioned in step "1" above. Now open the image in Photoshop. How does it look to your eyes? is it significantly different from the way it looked whilst being edited under the "false" screen profile? If it looks OK just leave it be. If there is a difference and you don't like the image so much now, you can simply use Photoshop's tools to edit it to fix the appearance. IMO no amount of assigning profiles or converting to another profile is going to fix what you did. So don't waste time trying to work out how to assign the mac's default LCD profile. It's not going to help even if you could. How to fix the profile visibility issue: I worked it out it's to do with the profile name tags go to system preferences / displays / color select the offending "uncalibrated" profile now click on "open profile" you'll see it has a weird name you can save it from here - "save as" to your profiles folder [give it a memorable name] - but it still does not show up in Photoshop for assigning or converting because the "internal = visible name" is different in the filesystem and in Photoshop [Photoshop shows the internal name] So the profile you have now needs to be opened in an application like Colorthink and set so that both internal and external name are the same. If you save it and send it to me I'll fix it for you and send it back. See my web address in my profile and contact me through the contact page. I'm not supposed to post an email address here. [ or try this: http://www.designtalkboard.com/tips/dtp/rename-icc-profile.php ] then you can try to assign as you wanted [EDIT: yep, that script works for me] I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 10, 2017

Hi, I hope i can help with that . Sorry this is late, I had attempted to post it a few minutes after your original but for some reason it had not appeared! Anyhow, I hope iot MIGHT contain some useful help? The method you're suggesting in your original post shows you've given it some thought but really I don't feel it's going to help you. By the way the "default" display profile which is produced by OSX [e.g. "ColorLCD"] can't be assigned to your files. It's NOT a normal ICC profile. And, anyway, I feel pretty strongly that would not fix your issue. You CAN assign "custom" display profiles, ones you made [I can do that here], but NOT the default which is made by OSX first time it encounters a connected display. SO - I can see your thinking - BUT - Where you are now = when you set the "wrong" display profile in System preferences your images look right - OK, so that's an sRGB tagged image being converted to the display colourspace by photoshop on the fly (just for display). Now it MIGHT work IF you could CONVERT from sRGB TO the "uncalibrated display" profile, but as that is not a "real profile you'll see it's not in any of your profile folders. So you have some manual work to do I am afraid. The display profile basically does one thing, it tells applications like Adobe Photoshop (and OSX) how to adjust image data on its way to the screen to give correct appearance. That’s IT. Here's an extreme example - imagine your screen was ageing and somehow had a green caste - Photoshop would (just for the preview) add magenta to image data en route to the screen to make them look right on the screen. If Photoshop did not do that you'd be tempted by the onscreen appearance to think your image had a green caste and to edit the file to get rid of the caste - but the image does not have a caste, so - that's not good. Screens are not usually that bad, though - but, still, it's always worth using the right profile. [ideally one you made for that screen using a colorimeter and a decent calibration & profiling utility]. You can see from the above example that what's happened in your case is that the "false" display profile will (perhaps) have misled you as to image appearance. So you may have made some ill advised edits. It's probably not much of an issue, but here's how to assess and fix it. Do not alter the colourspace of your edited image, leave it as it was. It was sRGB I think, leave it light that. If you've made colourspace changes like that and you can't remember them to revert to sRGB, then just carry on from here. Open your Apple system preferences / displays and set the colour tab to the right icc profile for your screen. Like you mentioned in step "1" above. Now open the image in Photoshop. How does it look to your eyes? is it significantly different from the way it looked whilst being edited under the "false" screen profile? If it looks OK just leave it be. If there is a difference and you don't like the image so much now, you can simply use Photoshop's tools to edit it to fix the appearance. IMO no amount of assigning profiles or converting to another profile is going to fix what you did. So don't waste time trying to work out how to assign the mac's default LCD profile. It's not going to help even if you could. I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 01, 2017

Hi Oclex, At the top of the image in Photoshop you'll see it has a file name. If you saved / closed the image already, try looking in Photoshop's file / open recent dialog for it. Once you have the filename you can search for that file by name on your computer. When saving a file for the first time, the destination folder is shown and you can change the destination right there. But, next time you save, the new version just replaces the originally saved one - right there in the originally set folder. Can you find it in a search? I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 01, 2017

Hi Lilian, it's right that the original background will need masking out, so that you can replace it with the new white you'd like to see. It may be necessary also to adjust the tone and colour of the edge of your product. A product taken from a black background can't easily sit happily on a white background. That cup above in the quick demo looks a little dark on some edges to sit on the white comfortably. The path tool is certainly a very accurate way to work, but it can be very time consuming if the object is complex, like hair / fur / trees etc. It's possible that there might be some really helpful masks already hiding in the channels pallet. Basically you choose the channel, invert it and use it as a mask (in the layers pallet) to mask some of the original image. It's really worth having a read up on using Photoshop's channels to make masks because that’s a fabulous part of Photoshop's capability. There are plenty of videos on youtube which teach this process. Here's a useful tutorial, too Save selections and alpha channel masks in Adobe Photoshop I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 01, 2017

Hi Sheena, I looked there in colour themes and could not see jamesg's post. Even with searching "gradations". Anyhoo, I think it IS a colour management issue perhaps. thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Mar 01, 2017

Hi jamesg, If you are seeing gradations with steps on screen (rather than in print) it could be your display screen profile and calibration that’s causing the issue. However if they really are horizontal lines (across the paper width) then it's likely a printer issue. Try rotating the image - does the issue rotate with it? If the printer is definitely OK then it could be a screen issue - I am guessing you're using an LCD (flat screen) type and not an Eizo Coloredge or NEC Spectraview display? The Coloredge and Spectraview have a hardware calibration that stops this happening. When calibrating and profiling "Normal" the software creates a calibration look up table (LUT) which is loaded into the computer video card, the screen is then profiled. What this means is that on the way to the display the data making up an image can undergo some pretty significant corrections (like a set of curves). This can cause "contouring" or "posterisation" (where there are not enough steps of digital detail to provide a fully smooth gradation). It's not usually dead straight lines, those are usually "banding" caused by a printer head fault. So, in short the faults you see may not be in the file you've made, just a fault in the display system. Because frustration with this symptom in pre-press and design, Eizo & NEC came up with "hardware calibration" to solve it. They had to, because high end users were refusing to switch from CRT screens (which, generally, did not have the problem). There is a workaround, I'll explain how to do it on a Mac. Go to system preferences / displays / color and rather than selecting a display profile, try selecting the sRGB profile, now click back into Illustrator. Does this solve the gradation problem? It's not going to give you good colour management, for that you must have an accurate display screen profile, but it will dump the calibration LUT so you can see your file shown without it's effect. Because you need the colour management to be active don't forget to switch back to the display profile. I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 16, 2017

emig17, thanks for the "correct" label I am pleased to have been able to help you neil

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 15, 2017

Hi Rodocarda, thanks, looks like you may have managed to mark it as correct. That’s good of you to take the time if you get stuck "If the reply above answers your question, please take a moment to mark this answer as correct by visiting: https://forums.adobe.com/message/9333089#9333089 and clicking ‘Correct’ below the answer"

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 10, 2017

Hi SasquatchPatch yeah, thanks, I am going to play with PMP5 edit too. It IS easier to run an old version of OSX for sure, I have a mac just for Profilemaker and PMP5. I was really looking for something I could recommend folk to sue themselves, you know, something current rather than a specialist tool we geeks keep old macs running for. If I ever find a way I'll post it up here. Yeah, Trident, that takes me back, I used to run a Howtek 4000 for that way back. SCSI though?! I bet you have a good time with old macs / OS9 / SCSi etc. have a good weekend and thanks again

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 10, 2017

Andrew, thanks lots. I am going on a search. have a good weekend neil

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 05, 2017

Hia Andrew, I didn't know that existed. I sure miss custom color's tools. My own legacy Macbook is on OSX 10.6.8 and maintained for for PMP5 and Monaco profiler mainly. thanks

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 04, 2017

Hi Andrew you running custom color in OS9? on a pre power PC mac? I might have a search thanks

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 04, 2017

Hi Rodocarda thanks for marking as helpful? Do you feel your issue is solved now? or at least on the way to being solved? I do hope so please let us know what steps, if any, have helped if you're OK now, perhaps you'd please do mark my reply as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 04, 2017

HI emig17, do you have a bit more info about your circumstances for us please? Or are you OK now with the answers you received? if so, please do mark the reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so that others who have similar issues / questions can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 04, 2017

Hi Andrew, thanks for that, I'd have to agree that I never felt at home with the PM5 interface either. You say that for you, output profile editing is rare (me too), but do you not find that Photoshop's view/softproof/custom/simulate paper white leaves a bit to be desired? - meaning that a small edit in the A2B of the printer profile might be useful? again thanks

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 04, 2017

Hi SasquatchPatch, Yes, the gretag profilemaker pro 5 edit module is an option, but as you mention, it was discontinued a long long time ago. Personally I do have a macbook with 10.6.8 to run PM5 and Monaco profiler (yeah, I have the dongles) but that's not an option in the "modern" OSX world. thanks, though.

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 02, 2017

Hi D Fosse, Yes a selection of calibrations is certainly one approach, thanks for mentioning. In an environment, though, where, say, a designer needs to switch between coated and uncoated output many times during a typical day, that would get forgotten perhaps. ColorNavigator does make that easy though, for sure. Additionally, I'd like to have the facility to accurately compare coated and uncoated soft proofs alongside each other. So, ideally I feel the solution IS editing the profile white point and using AbsCol rendering to the screen (i.e. Simulate paper white activated). My general approach is to attempt to match the calibration settings to a good coated certified proof in, ideally, a GTI D50 lightbox, then go from there. To be honest I've always found Photoshop's simulate paper white too "strong", as do most - I remember Bruce Fraser writing about his approach to this (long ago in Real World Photoshop 5 probably) which was to make a small edit to the A2B table removing about half of the paper tint and marking the profile as soft proof use only. As Andrew wrote, you need some hard to get hold of tools to do that. On my Coloredge CG247 with the white point target at 5800K and 120 cdM2 it's pretty successful soft proofing most papers, it's just when the OBA "mucks up" the spectrophotometer readings significantly and reads the OBA as blue (of course it IS blue, correctly but it's perceived as "super-bright" white by the eye). Thanks for the input. n

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 02, 2017

Andrew, yeah, thanks I found my copy of Kodak's Custom Color Software - VERY old Mac stuff for sure. Wasn't software lovely back then, requires 8MB RAM ';~} have a good week n

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 02, 2017

Hi guys, This is probably one for you Andrew ';~} Is anyone still editing icc profiles? I'm fully aware that the received wisdom is "garbage in garbage out" so that editing is generally only needed in the case of poor characterisation data. But there is a place perhaps where a clever edit tool might really help. When printer profiles (especially for OBA paper) are in for Photoshop's view / softproof / custom / paper white simulation option. As an example the profile "coated GRACoL 2006 (ISO 12647-2:2004)" [part of the photoshop installation] and the newer CGATS21_CRPC6 V2.icc both give quite a bluish preview when Photoshop's simulate paper white is invoked. It's not a great match for the paper itself. So we could edit the A2B intent which would not affect the RGBx.icc > CMYKx.icc conversion (that needs to be left alone), just CMYKx.icc > RGBdisplay.icc, basically. Could be useful for places where a really good match is needed. Just for softproofing though, since that A2B table in the printer profile is also used within printed proofing, care is needed not to use a softproof adapted profile with a tweaked white point there I saw this useful piece from Andrew, the digitaldog, but it's referencing old software unfortunately http://digitaldog.net/files/11FineTuningICCprofiles.pdf . From what I can see Kodak's old Photoshop plug-in [Kodak ColorFlow Custom Color Tools v3.1] which I did rather like using, is gone now. There seems to perhaps be something similar in the new Kodak "Colorflow" but that seems a rather heavy duty toolkit for this small job. Gretag's Profilemaker could have done it too, but it went with OSX 10.7 I believe. As could Monaco's profiler (but only with Monaco profiles). So all the apps seem to be gone ';~} and for softproofing tune-ups, a capable editor would be really useful. Or maybe Adobe could put a slider there in Photoshop's view / softproof / custom section for varying degrees of white point simulation. IccProfLib: Main Page one option I guess? thanks for reading neilB

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Feb 02, 2017

Hi rodocarda Sadly it's inevitable that older Macs slow down with newer versions of OSX. An SSD (solid state drive) for the operating system can make an amazing difference though, bringing new life to an old mac because OSX now uses the hard drive for temp. memory a lot - and of course max out the machine's RAM if you can. I saw massive improvement to an older iMac we use here when an SSD was fitted. The software issues - maybe you "upgraded" to Sierra and something's got broken in the move. You mentioned the link between Lightroom and Photoshop failing, could be that's a casualty of the upgrade. As a first step, have a look here for info on resetting photoshop: Preferences in Photoshop and https://www.lightroomqueen.com/articles-page/how-do-i-reset-lightrooms-preferences/ If that doesn't help it's probably be worth deleting then re-installing Lightroom and Photoshop and then testing to see if your issue is fixed. It's unfortunate, but, occasionally, macs seem to need a clean install. Especially if the OS has been upgraded multiple times, old stuff can get left behind, it seems, including corrupted system files. An easier strategy that can succeed which is pretty much half way between accepting a plain OSX update and a "wipe the drive and clean install everything" is to clone the hard disc onto an external drive [do make it "bootable" and test that booting works] (maybe try Super Duper software for this) and then, after wiping your main drive and installing Sierra ( a clean "fresh" install) take Apple's offer to "migrate" your information from a previous hard disk ( the one you cloned to ). Last time I upgraded that worked very well. You'll find some great tips about the OSX upgrade process online at various mac help sites. Apple call the strategy above "migration". You may have to create a Sierra installer on a thumbdrive. Do that before you get rid of the old OSX installation. Again instructions are online. If creating an installer like that do it on the machine it'll be sued with - In some cases OSX has hardware specific versions, the download is created for the mac which is doing the download. I hope this helps you out if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Jan 31, 2017

Hi emig17, I'd say that your choice of the display screen and calibration & profiling system depends on budget and, of course, your area of work? The Eizo CG model coloredge screens are very good with good uniformity and gamut - and it is convenient to have the inbuilt calibration & profiling sensor on models that include it. If you'd also like to calibrate & profile your laptop as well perhaps for when you're traveling, though, you'll also need an external sensor that you can move between screens - and software to use with it. If you need to keep the cost down, I've seen pretty good results with decent quality screens and the datacolor Spyder express which is pretty low cost, although I do like to use it with the basICColor display software which i feel is a significant upgrade. (the basICColor display software works well with the Spyder 5 and you can get a free demo for 14 days to try it out.) The i1 Display Pro is a good instrument too, a little more costly again prefer to use it with the basICColor display software. More about that software here: http://tinyurl.com/gn6qzak Maybe let us know a little more about your work and then the advice can be tempered to match your needs. I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Jan 19, 2017

Hi viginieg, How frustrating. Are you working with 2 screens connected? Mac or Windows? I am guessing Mac. I have seen an issue on Mac which sounds rather like this - with dual screens (mirrored) and Photoshop, but not just Photoshop. In my case, opening another application will make Photoshop's display change as if it's dropped the display profile, I am convinced that it's something to do with the monitor profile implementation and OSX. In my case, it helped a lot to first quit Photoshop then go to Mac system preferences / displays / arrange and set the menubar onto the screen that I consider the main one [master screen]. That’s the one that has my main Photoshop editing window. Once you've done that, Photoshop should open on that [master] screen. Go to Photoshop - edit/ color settings and under working spaces / RGB if you click there you'll see, with in the pulldown that opens, the "monitor RGB" should be showing the icc profile for that main monitor. Doing that has fixed my own issues. [BTW do not select the Monitor RGB there in color settings by highlighting it, we don't wish to use it as our working space. Just to be sure you left all as it should be why not cancel rather than OK to exit?] ps, changing settings on the screen is not god, ideally you need to have a calibration and profiling method, I mean a sensor and good software to keep the system calibrated and consistent. There is some info about that here: display screen colour management, calibration and profiling | colourmanagement.net I hope this helps you, if not please come back with more detail if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Dec 29, 2016

Hi jtu50, it would be good if you could mark my post as "correct answer" please, that way anyone else seeking help on the same issue will know they can look there at this thread for help happy 2017

NB, colourmanagement · ‎Dec 29, 2016

Hi, Basically, you'll need to go delete the file that photoshop is seeing in your users "proofing" folder. The file you need to delete SHOULD be here: Users/[user name]/AppData/Roaming/Adobe/ Color/Proofing If it's not, then here's how to find it in your version of Windows and Photoshop: In Photoshop, go to: View / Proof setup / Custom from the menu A dialog opens that you're used to where all the "proof setups" you've saved are shown in a list, below those provided by Adobe. *These listed files are really "proof -setups" rather than "profiles", we try reserve the term "profile" for ICC profiles. Just to keep things simple. Click on save there and you'll see the normal save dialog, at this point you may be able to see the route to the folder photoshop is saving to by default. If that's not helping, I suggest you do this: Save a new proof setup with an easy to remember name, say XXprooftestXX, allow the save to go ahead. Next, in Windows, type that filename XXprooftestXX into the search window and you should now see the folder where your own proof setups reside, you can now delete the ones you no longer want to see listed in Photoshop. IF Windows does NOT save your new setup to photoshop's default folder (it can happen) then simply search for one of your previously made setups by name using Windows search I hope this helps if so, please do mark my reply as "helpful" and if you're OK now, please mark it as "correct answer" so others who have similar issues can see the solution thanks neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

NB, colourmanagement

NB, colourmanagement

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