If you bought Lr online from Adobe you would have received the license key by e-mail from Adobe. If you really can't find it (also check the Junk-mail folder) you have to contact Adobe sales. They can verify that you have a valid license and provide the key. ... View more

A print shop does not have to crop an image when they do an enlargement. And I don't think any print shop would do a crop. They would print the image as you supply it in the size that you specify. If you supply a cropped image then that's what they print. If you do a crop of an image, the exported image will only show what was not cropped. But the question is if the pixel dimension of the supplied image is large enough to support the enlargement. During export you should therefore select a pixel dimension that would support your largest print. ... View more

Here's what Blurb says about color space conversion in PDF to Book: http://www.blurb.com/pdf-to-book-color-guides ... View more

Janine, You wrote "My monitor is calibrated using an X-Rite Color Munki and a webinar I took to learn how to use it recommened setting it to a brightness intensity of 100. Can you explain to me the reason you are going with 110?" I am going with 110 because at that setting my prints done on my printer match what I see on screen. If 100 works for you, then that is the correct setting for you. The "correct"  intensity (brightness) setting is not a value that can be determined mathematically. Generally it is recommended to choose a value between 100 and 110. Any setting in that range that works for your monitor is fine. You also wrote "A bit confused about how soft proofing to the Blurb ICC profile in Photoshop helps if I'm ultimately bringing those images back into Lightroom to create & upload the book, since Lightroom can't handle the Blurb ICC profile because it's CYMK. Am I missing something in my thinking here?" It is a test only. It doesn't do anything for the image(s) in Lr. If I have an image with critical color, I send it to Photoshop and softproof it to the Blurb icc-profile. Just for viewing on my screen and to give me an idea. I don't convert to Blurb CMYK and use the converted photo in Lr. That would indeed be futile since Lr cannot handle CMYK - as you correctly say. And ... I don't do this for every image. And you wrote "I wondered about that since none of the paper choices is truly "glossy"" As far as I understand the settings "Glossy" or "Matte" determine how much sharpening is applied on export to PDF. Matte paper needs more sharpening since a print on matte paper is softer. I would select "Glossy" also for the Premium Lustre" paper. You are right, I mostly select the ProLine Pearl. The paper is much thicker than the Lustre. ... View more

trshaner, This is most excellent. I did not know that there is an option for using the 'PDF to Book' workflow outside of InDesign. Thanks so much for this, and also for the links. I'll try it next time. ... View more

trshaner, Thank you for this tip. Unfortunately I don't have InDesign, so can convert to Blurb-icc only in Photoshop. Although Lr will display a TIFF converted to Blurb-icc in Photoshop, the problem is what Lr does with the Blurb-icc profile - if it does anything at all. I assume it will just disregard it when I upload to Blurb since it is a CMYK profile. ... View more

I have made several books in Lr 5 and had them printed with Blurb, the last one just a week ago. My monitor is calibrated and set to an intensity (brightness) of 110 cd/m2. Within reason the Blurb-printed colors match what I see on screen. Within reason means that you have to expect some color changes since not all colors that you see on screen can be printed. In my recent book the most notable color shift was from a turquoise (think a lovely blue-turquoise of an iceberg) to a darker turquoise-green. I always use my Raw images (NEFs) directly in the Book Module. I don't make any conversions or saves as sRGB JPGs. The best way to color-proof your images is by softproofing them in Photoshop to the Blurb profile. Be sure that you have "simulate paper color" checked to give you an indication of the printed image. Since softproofing in Photoshop is a bit cumbersome, I do it only for some images. Before the upload to Blurb I check my books by exporting them as PDFs and viewing the created PDF. This I do particularly to see if my sharpening is (a) enough but (b) not too much.Since the printing process softens the images, your images may look a tiny bit over-sharpened in the PDF. For the export to PDF I change the Book Settings (right side, top panel) from "Blurb" to "PDF". The Blurb-logo page will then disappear. I use these settings for the export to PDF: JPG quality - 100; Color Profile - sRGB; File Resolution - 300 ppi. I check the box "Sharpening" and select "High" and "Glossy" for Media Type. On my system (quad Xeon and 12 GB RAM) the export to PDF for a large book (13 x 11) with over 200 pages takes about 1 hour. The upload to Blurb took about 2.5 hours. This certainly depends of the upload speed that you are getting. ... View more

The softproof feature in Lr can predict the print only a) if your monitor is calibrated, i.e. if the white point is set to the industry standard of 6500 K (sometimes called D65). and b) if your monitor is set to the correct intensity (brightness). I mention these as two requirements because with some calibration software the default target for intensity (brightness) is too high. For instance my former calibration software recommended an intensity of 140 cd/m2. When I followed this advice my prints would come out too dark. Therefore, if you just accept this default target your monitor will be too bright even if you calibrate it regularly, and your prints will be too dark. The remedy is to change the default setting for intensity (brightness) in your calibration software to a value between 100 to 110 cd/m2. Even with a correct monitor setting there will also be differences between the image on screen and in print. These differences result from the facts that - on screen the image is backlit while in a print the light is reflected; - prints should be (but mostly are not) viewed under controlled lighting, i.e.in a viewing booth; - the screen colors of Red, Green, and Blue are "translated" into the print colors of Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black. ... View more

rarewolf wrote: ... but for photo rag paper and my printer, the ICC does predict significant loss of brightness and saturation in tone-mapped images, and I'd like to compensate for it as much as possible.  It would seem my situation is exactly why these print adjustment were provided(?) If your icc profile predicts the loss of brightness & saturation, and if Lr displays that correctly (which it should) my advice would be still not to use the sliders in the Print Module because they don't give any feedback, i.e. what you do with the sliders is not displayed din Lr. Rather I would do this: I'd create a Virtual Copy specific for that purpose and (in the Library Module) call the copy (not the file!) "Photo Rag" (in the Metadata panel / Copy name) so that I know in future what that VC is for. Then in the Develop Module with softproofing adjust the VC until it displays the brightness and saturation that I want. Then print without any adjustments in the Print Module. rarewolf wrote: Is there a systematic approach for anticipating how much these adjusters will change the print?  For example, it would be nice if I could turn on softproofing in the print module and use the sliders to view the compensation I want(?)  Unfortunately, no. The sliders in the Print Module work only in the "trial-and-error" mode. There's no feedback and no system, unless you create your own system by trial and error. ... View more

Click on the small curve icon - bottom right of the curve tool - and the behavior of the curve changes. Also, the sliders of the curve tool disappear. Then you can drag the end points of the curve verticallu up or down resp. to create an inverted curve. Save it as a preset. ... View more

trshaner wrote: When Vignetting is corrected 100% it can cause the image to take on a less natural appearance, since we are used to seeing some vignetting in most pictures. Not only that, Vignetting is used by many fine art photographers as a means to draw the eye towards the center of interest in an image, and they apply more vignetting on top of what the lens does already. Naturally it always comes down to personal tastes and styles. But I find that letting the "incorrections" of the lens be and not striving for an image that is 100% correct, often gives more satisfying results . ... View more

I don't know. But I have noticed that one of my lenses sometimes needs a bit of a tweak. I guess it depends how careful the lens profile is made. Some profiles are very good, the profiles are done for different focus settings - from infinity to close-range, and they are bang-on. But if a profile is done for - let's say - only two focus settings, and you have used a different focus setting ... you get the picture. ... View more

Pbeck1 wrote: P.s the day i got the camera i updated the Lens Distortion control data in the firmware as advised (not sure if that's significant or not) It's only significant for JPGs. All the in-camera adjustments are applied only to JPGs. Raws (Nefs) are not changed by the in-camera adjustments. Nikon doesn't say that in their manuals, I know, but it's a fact. A Raw image isn't an image yet. It's just a bunch of data, something like " sensel xyz11 got this much light and it has a red filter; sensel xyz12 got so much light and it has a green filter ..." plus a bunch of metadata. Even the WB is only a metadata tag. Active D-Lighting, Lens Correction, etc. - all for JPGs only. ... View more

Sounds like you have the correct profile - even if it is not quite correct ( ). ... View more

You didn't say which lens you used. But generally speaking, yes, sometimes the lens profiles need a bit of adjustment. Apparently you have already figured out how to to that manually for individual photos. But you can make this adjustment the default so that it will be automatically applied to all images with this lens. When you have done the necessary adjustment (I take it you moved the Distortion slider in Lens Correction / Profile to the right or to the left. You might have notices that the word "Default" - just a line below "Enable Lens Profile Corrections" - has changed to "Custom". Now click on the double triangle besides the word "Custom" and select "Save New Lens Profile Defaults". This will make your adjustments the new "Default", and you just have to make sure that "Default" is selected. If you don't like your adjustments later on, you can change it any time and save it as "new default". Your adjustment will then automatically applied. ... View more

I`m sorry I can`t help you with that. I am not a subscriber to CC and don't know the ins and outs of that. There is a special forum for questions regarding installation and setting up of programs from the CC. I suggest you post your question there. This is the link: http://forums.adobe.com/community/download_install_setup ... View more

Maybe this helps: http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/multi/edit-photoshop-command-missing-photoshop.html But before you try to edit the registry re-install Photoshop (not Lightroom!) Editing the registry is a dangerous thing  - if you make a mistake Windows might not start next time you boot. ... View more

p3vanisle wrote: So I can locate the CMYK profile my printer is using, and install it into my design suite (PS, Illustrator, InDesign) and then export relevant filetypes in that color space? That would be terribley useful. Yes, you have to install the profile on your computer. In Photoshop CSxx you go >Edit >Convert to Profile, and select the CMYK-profile under <Destination Space>. In Acrobat you go >Edit >Color Management, and select the profile under <Working Space>. But only Photoshop will convert the image to CMYK, whereas - at least for my understanding - Acrobat will display the image as if it were CMYK but not actually convert it. If I do the conversion here (open their images in PS or Acrobat and convert the profile) aren't I still stuck in the 'I don't know what shade of pink you want that flower to be' still anyways? If you get a RGB image from a client, you have to assume that the colors are as wanted. This is not different when you get a CMYK image. The problem for you is that nor everybody has a calibrated monitor, so an image might look good on their monitor but the actual color numbers will produce a print that looks different. But there is nothing you can do, except - if you have the time - adjust obvious off-colors. For instance you know the skin-color of caucasian (white) people. You know how green a lawn is, and you know that most brides wear a white gown. So if for instance the gown is blue-ish, or the skin looks overly pink, you can adjust that. More you cannot do. In case of a flower you can only accept the photo as is - unless you know this type of flower very well. But the evaluation of color is only possible if you have a calibrated monitor that is re-calibrated regularly (every week or so). If your monitor is not calibrated you have no way of knowing if the off-color is due to the color numbers of the delivered image or a result of your un-calibrated monitor that displays the colors differently than the color numbers warrant. If you use a calibrated monitor the colors should not change on conversion to CMYK. You can use the Softproof feature in Photoshop to check if colors are out of gamut. - my degree is in design, yes, but we didn't cover printing and prepress specifics at all. Yes, I have noticed in my work that the designers often have no knowledge about color management, printing, and pre-press. Good on you that you care and want to learn! Keep on asking if you wish. ... View more

You have two options: a) Either you supply the exact CMYK-profile to the people who send photos to you, so that they can install the profile on their computers and convert images to this profile. This option works only for people who have Photoshop CSxx installed on their computers. People who have only Lr cannot convert to CMYK because Lr does not recognize any CMYK profile and does not work with it. SWOP v2 is a generic profile, and I wonder if that is really the profile used by your printer - or if your printer uses a derivative of SWOP v2 that is specific to this printer. b) Or you do the conversion. You cannot know "if the colour is correct on their printout to how they intended it" - but neither do you know this if they send you CMYK images. You have to go with what you get. ... View more

Here is my idea: Create different watermarks for landscape and for portrait orientation. You then have to export landscape and portrait images separately. If you create an export preset for each of them, your workflow is only a bit more complicated - i.e. 2-click export vs. 1-click export.. ... View more

I think you have to do this in Photoshop. You could create the watermark with border as an image in a pixel editor software (i.e. Photoshop) and save it as a jpg or png. Then load the created jpg/png as a graphic watermark in the Watermark Editor in Lr and apply it on export. But there are two problems: a) The watermark with frame will only work for exports where the image size fits the image. b) I don't know if Lr will apply the watermark-frame around the image or if the frame will sit on top of the image or if Lr refuses to apply a watermark that is (and has to be) larger than the image. ... View more

sportyman1401 wrote: So my question is this? Once I remove the catalog the way you discribed this process, when I open up LR4 the Catalog should not be there any more right? When Lr does not find any catalog it will come up blank and wants to import images. If you then cancel import Lr will show/display no images at all. ... View more

Thanks everybody for helpful suggestions.Since adobe-admin has confirmed that they are working on this, I'm confident that this bug will disappear soon. Noel-Carboni, yes Comp Mode creates other funny things: When I hover over the icons of the forum members they (the icons, not the members) start jumping sideways. The italics never bothered me - they are appearing and disappearing on the forum since at least three weeks now. ... View more

John T Smith, Well, the first thing the Campatibility View did was put the text of all the previous posts in italics. That's a nice touch But, hey <Enter> already works as expected. That's a bonus Now let me try to post a link: http://members.lightroomqueen.com/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/1137/188/how-do-i-change-my-monitor-profile-to-check-whether-its-corrupted This one did not work before. And now the test: Click on <Post> Yep, it worked. Great. Thanks a lot. ... View more

Thank you. Glad you are working on it. Being unable to post a link in an answer severely impedes the ability to help people with their questions. ... View more

I use IE10. I have not changed my browser, nor has there been - as far as I know - any update for IE10 in the last few days. Previously, when I was still able to insert weblinks I was using IE10, too. Another thing that happened recently: When posting an answer pressing <Return> does not move the cursor to a new line when there are no letters after the cursor. When I insert the cursor at the beginning of an already typed text line, the result is as expected: the line is shifted to a "new line". But <Shift> + <Enter> works even without text after the cursor. I encounter these problem only on Adobe Forum websites. On non-Adobe websites my <Enter> works as expected. Just tried it on MS Win 7 Forum. ... View more

RE: Reports of lost images when moving folders in Lr   Such reports were made from time to time since Lr2. Sure, many/most of them are due to "operator error". But some of them could never be explained. I have it in my memory that on an Adobe webpage it has/had been recommended to use the OS (Mac Finder / Win Explorer) when moving image folders - but I cannot find this page, and maybe my memory is faulty.   But it is interesting that Victoria Bampton in her manual on moving image folders to another hard drive also recommends strongly to move images and/or folders using Win Explorer / mac Finder. See here: http://members.lightroomqueen.com/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/1166/0/how-do-i-move-only-my-photos-to-another-hard-drive-leaving-the-catalog-where-it-is   One of the latest reports of lost images / folders is on this thread: http://forums.adobe.com/message/5230435#5230435    But I was not aware of the answer of Adobe staff member Julie Kmoch of April 12, 2013 (post # 27 in this thread). She writes: "To update this thread on what we pursued internally...the short story is we haven't found anything that would make files disappear while moving a folder. We had four engineers review the code invoked when moving folders, threw fake errors at it to test the error handling, dug for any possible reports of issues with the OS calls we're making, and had two of our quality engineers abuse it moving tens of thousands of files across volumes with every odd case we could think of. If we had found something that would actually makes files disappear, that would be a stop-the-presses kind of event, so we took it very seriously. But we haven't been able to find anything."   So it seems that this problem is not an issue anymore.  I apologize for my misleading statement that Adobe would warn against moving images in Lr. ... View more

COMDASC, The two sliders in the Print Module are best left alone, i.e. best not used at all. The reason for this is very simple: The adjustments with the sliders are not visible in Lr, so you have no feedback of how much your print will be affected. The correct way to match a print to what you see on screen (or better worded: to match your screen to the print) is to calibrate the monitor and set it to the correct value for brightness (intensity). The tonality (brightness/darkness) and the colors of a digital image are determined by the color numbers. For each pixel there are three numerical values that determine the tone and color of this pixel. The printer prints the image according to the color numbers. But uncalibrated monitors cannot be trusted to display the image according to the color numbers. Most uncalibrated monitors are to bright (because they are set for brightly lit offices) and they have a color bias (too much red, or too much blue, or too much green). Color calibration is done with a piece of hardware called a spectrometer and accompanying software. Brand names are Spyder, ColorMunki, GretaghMacbeth. The software lets you select a target for White Balance (6,500 K is the industry standard) and for brightness (intensity) of the monitor. Select a brightness of about 110 cd/m2 to match the brightness of your monitor to your print. And when your monitor is calibrated and set to correct brightness you don't have to adjust for the various media. Then it's WYSIWYG - What You See  IS What You GET in print. ... View more

Yes, I know. But sometimes the drive does not show up in the Folders panel if it does not contain any photos. Then you can't create a folder on the drive from within Lr. PS: I often recommend J Kost's video tutorials. ... View more