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That's a tricky question. I'll put in my 2 cents.
I have a full chip DSLR (35mm equiv.) with a bunch of lenses. I use them (with adapter) on a BMPCC MFT type camera. The crop factor of that is more than 2X. Almost 3X ( 2.88). It means that the very center portion of image is hitting the chip ( tiny part of whole image from lens). THAT means that if the optics of the lens are not the very best in the whole world the images may be less than really SHARP. And THAT means I have to deal with it somehow.
I now use Resolve most of the time, so I use different tools to do this stuff ( enhance clarity) .. namely contrast/pivot , midtone detail, and so on … don't recall an unsharp mask being in that program. I think you can do it manually with parallel nodes and merger thing.. but never did it.
Using PPro
a) only do it on a clip by clip basis AS needed. If a landscape at 1000 mm looks slightly not super sharp nobody cares and nobody will notice. IF it's a close up of someone and their eyes are slightly out, I will sharpen. Clip by clip.
b) Do it last almost all the time.
c) Do it EXTREMELY judiciously... ( turn it on and off so you can see what it is doing … comparing without sharpening, and with sharpening. ERR on the side of NOT ENOUGH sharpening.
For example, if the eyes seem not sharp and I decide to sharpen, if I just manage to take the curse off it ( where it is not so noticeable) than I am a happy clam.
The more subtle influences effecting and in conjunction with sharpening...
If you warp stabilize sharpening puts undo extra burden on process. Hence do sharpen last. Same with color grading or changing luminance and balance.
If you use denoiser you are basically undoing the unsharp mask
If something is so bad ( out of focus ) see if you can live without it.... throw it away, rather than try the impossible. If it's that bad it's gonna look stupid anyway .. it's a fine line...
In photoshop I never used more than 30 for unsharp mask
No specific workflow ( order of things ) is ever gonna work all the time... so go with the flow and picture what you have to do and then decide when to do it ( what order ). You'll find it comes kinda naturally after a while, and if something doesn't work you can undo it, etc. So don't be scared to try stuff.
Finally, don't forget... you are the only one ( unless someone else shot it ) who knows what the original stuff looks like. People who watch TV, for example, don't KNOW what the original stuff looks like, so they can't base a critique of the editing and grading on any sort of comparison. They never saw the source. They never saw what 'couldn't be used' because of boom mic or boom shadow in the shot, etc.
They won't know what YOUR original stuff was... only you know it. So don't be overly critical and super perfect with clarity. Most people won't be as critical of things as much as you are.
Don't use sharpening if you can avoid it... And make sure you are on a frame that is a good one...( not blurry due to motion ).
Good luck !
I posted before you posted your mssg about go pro.
what fps and shutter speed are you shooting ? If you go to 60 fps and 120th/ sec shutter does it look sharper to you ?? Do a short test if you have to... just holding the camera … if it's on drone you don't have to fly it, just pan the camera by hand...
I guess I would do all your edit stuff and color etc.. and then add the adj. layer above everything with the unsharp mask and export.
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