CPU is Intel(R) UHD Graphics 770 Actually that is the integrated video controll within your CPU.  Graphics card is NVDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti And from your GPU, I assume this is a desktop computer or perhaps a workstation. As such, the integrated video controller probably has no influence into your LrC. Had this been a laptop, perhaps a conflict could occur, and perhaps deactivating the integrated video controller driver would help, but that is rare. By @GoldingD   I had this happen on a new desktop computer, and disabling the integrated GPU fixed it.   @jasonw2420467  Open the Windows Device manager, right click the UHD Graphics and choose Disable device. Relaunch LrC if it's running. Does that fix the issue?   ... View more

It slipped my mind that DeNoise in LrC now supports non-raw (linear) DNG files. Not all scanner software can create DNG files, but the professional version of VueScan, which supports the vast majority of scanners, can do it. But the DNG file will be a raw scan of the original, so there will be no conversion to positive when scanning negatives. ... View more

My suggested workflow is this, with LrC as the main editor.   First of all, open the scan in PS, remove dust and scratches and crop (if necessary). If this is a scan of a black & white negative, invert it to positive before retouching and cropping. If it's a scan of a color negative that you plan to convert with the Negative Lab Pro plugin for LrC, do retouching later, the orange mask makes it very difficult. Save and close the file, then import it in LrC and edit to your liking. Do not apply any sharpening. For noise reduction, press Control + E (edit in Photoshop) and choose Edit a copy with Lightroom adjustments. If you choose Edit Original, your LrC edits will not be visible in PS. You really want to see them, because some edits, like Clarity and Dehaze will enhance noise. In PS, create a copy of the background layer (name it Noise reduction), then run Topaz Denoise on the new layer. Use a little stronger noise reduction than what you think is required, then reduce the layer opacity to fine tune. If you want to sharpen the image, create a copy of the Noise reduction layer, name it Sharpening, and run Topaz sharpening on it. Again, oversharpen a bit, and reduce the layer opacity afterwards. Remember to view the image at 100% when doing noise reduction and sharpening. When you save and close the file, it will automatically appear in LrC. The advantage of doing noise reduction and sharpening on layers is that you can always go back and change the opacity of the layers to reduce or increase the effect, and also use a layer mask. You can of course use the Topaz plugins from LrC, but you will not be able to do any fine tuning afterwards. ... View more

1) Denoise only works with raw files, at least for the time being. You can use manual noise reduction in LrC (Luminance) or the Reduce noise filter in Photoshop. Topaz Denoise will give you better results than either.   2) Do noise reduction before any sharpening. Topaz Denoise (standalone, not Photo AI) also has options for sharpening.   3) 35mm scans tend to not respond well to sharpening, in my experience it very often it makes them look worse. So sharpen conservatively, if at all. I would not use any sharpening at all in LrC, possibly after noise reduction, and preferably using Topaz Sharpen AI or Photo AI. And I would not send a jpg to Photoshop or Topaz for further editing, use Edit in from LrC. Make sure to work with tiffs all the way. Jpg is a final format, and not meant to be edited.   4) I agree with @KR Seals in that Negative Lab Pro does an excellent job of converting color negatives to positive. Version 3.1 (currently in beta) is also supposed to do a very good job with restoring colors from faded and miscolored slides. Some other advice – Always scan in 16-bit (48-bit color) Rather than using Edit in Topaz from LrC, use edit in Photoshop instead, and use the Topaz plugin in PS. Then do noise reduction and sharpening on copies of the Background layer. This will allow you to overdo the noise reduction and sharpening a bit, and you can fine tune the effect by reducing the opacity on the layers. Always view the image at 100% when doing noise reduction and sharpening Retouching (removing dust and scratches) is best done in Photoshop. It is quite awkward to do in LrC, and it will slow down to a crawl after a while. I always open scans in PS before importing to LrC for retouching and cropping. (the latter is almost impossible to do accurately in LrC) ... View more

The noise reduction and sharpening are settings from the camera. Digital cameras have always written camera settings to raw files, using proprietary code that only the camera manufacturers' own raw converters could understand – like Nikon's NX Studio. LrC does not understand this code and ignores it. The Nikon Z cameras were the first to write camera settings in XMP, which LrC understands and honors.   You can stop this from happening by going to Edit > Preferences > Presets, and set the Raw default for the Z9 to Adobe Default. This will use Adobe's default sharpening, and no other sliders will be touched. You can also create your own Develop preset with settings of your choice, and have it applied on import. See https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/raw-defaults.html   Another approach is to zero out / neutralize all settings in the camera (you might have to create a custom Picture style), and set the Raw default in LrC to Camera settings. ... View more

So did you install the Studio driver? Nvidia released a new driver three days ago – https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/drivers/details/243339/   Please post a screenshot of the Devices tab of the Color management dialog, like my screenshot here. I also notice that LrC is installed to your G drive. If you're doing this to save space on C, you're only saving around 3.4 GB. How much free space do you have on C, and what's the capacity of the drive? ... View more

The Z9 should produce files with excellent quality. I have the Z7 which I'm very pleased with, and the Z9 should perform even better.   Would you mind sharing some sample raw files, so we could examine them? They will probably be too large to attach (max size is 47 MB), so use Dropbox or some other file sharing service and post the link here. ... View more

The current version of the DNG converter will not be able to convert raw files from these unsupported cameras. When support for these cameras is added in Camera Raw and Lightroom through an update, the DNG converter will also receive an update. ... View more

I found a sample raw file from the 20D on the Internet, and the only place the camera model is listed is after the file name at the top of the Camera Raw window. Did you check Use profile corrections in the Optics panel? I had to manually choose Canon in the Make field, then the profile appeared. If this doesn't work for you, please post the DNG file. You should be able to attach it to a new post.   ... View more

You have the latest GPU driver, but if you are using the Game ready driver, download and install the Studio driver instead. The Studio driver is more thoroughly tested than the Game ready driver, and is better suited for working in LrC. Laptop: https://www.nvidia.com/fr-fr/drivers/details/242265/ Desktop: https://www.nvidia.com/fr-fr/drivers/details/242233/   I also notice that you have the catalog on OneDrive, which is known to create problems. Move the folder to somewhere outside OneDrive, preferably to the root of the drive, like C:\Lightroom Catalog. Then double-click the catalog file (which has the extension .lrcat) to launch LrC from the new location. ... View more

If you have been using other zoom values than 100% or Fit view, it is difficult to drag the slider to 100%. Double-click the slider to zoom to exactly 100%.     See this thread for various ways to adjust the sliders for editing. https://community.adobe.com/t5/lightroom-classic-discussions/sliders-in-lightroom/m-p/15023222#M389269 ... View more

Is the catalog folder inside a folder that syncs to the cloud, like Dropbox or OneDrive? ... View more

Lightroom 4 did not use activation. If you entered your serial number, and it installed successfully, it should work indefinitely, or at least until a change in your operating system causes it to stop working.   Adobe has provided a script you can use to extract previews from the Previews.lrdata folder. https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/kb/extract-previews-for-lost-images-lightroom.html ... View more

The system info you posted is very limited. Please go to Help > System info in Lightroom Classic. Click the Copy button, then paste in a new reply. ... View more

One more thing about jpg file size – The file size you see in Lightroom is most likely the uncompressed file size. The file size you see in the Mac Finder or Windows file explorer is the size on disk (compressed). The two files I posted previously are both 394 kb uncompressed. And the  uncompressed file size of the 3034 x 4535 pixel image in your screenshot is 39.4 MB. ... View more

I Just can't understand why Photoshop can do all the edits without any problems but Lightroom-which Adobe are pushing as 'The' main editing AP-can't do them?-Spot removal is one of the most imports tools in any photo editing suite, seems strange that out of three aps-that can all do exactly the same things-they have different ways of doing them, saving them, importing them and the way they process them.  By @Level42   Photoshop does pixel editing. Edits are baked into the file, and when you have closed the file, there is no way to go back to the original image. This is known as destructive editing – it changes pixels permanently.   Lightroom and Lightroom Classic (and the Camera Raw plugin for Photoshop) do parametric editing – all edits are saved as text, and are applied to a new image when you export or print. (all the work you do in Lightroom is done on previews, not the original image) This is known as non-destructive editing. No pixels are changed, and the original remains the same. One click with the Remove tool can generate 25 kb of text or more. So the more retouching you do, the more text Lightroom has to handle to display the preview, and this process is extremely resource intensive.   Another problem I've found is I import an 11MB scan to Lightroom, I edit it and import it to desktop and its now 7.7MB. By the time I finish the edits in Lightroom its going to be about 5MB. Is there a way of saving them without losing so many MBs? I Have the export set to as Large as possible.   The file size of a jpg depends on three factors – Pixel dimensions Quality setting when exporting Image content Assuming that pixel dimensions and quality setting are constant, image content can have a huge influence on file size. The jpg format uses lossy (destructive) compression in order to reduce the file size. Images with predominantly flat, smooth, or out of focus areas are easy to compress, and will have a relatively small file size. Images with lots of sharp, busy detail or noise are harder to compress, and will have a relatively large file size. So file size is not an indication of the quality of a jpg. See examples below.   When you export a jpg from a jpg, the file size is almost guaranteed to change. The quality setting used when creating the original may not be the same as you use when exporting, and even if it is, the file size will probably be different. Also bear in mind that the exported file is a new file, it is not the same file as the original. The edits you have done will also affect the file size. Sharpening will contribute to a larger file size, noise reduction will contribute to a smaller file size. But that doesn't necessarily mean that the file will be larger or smaller than the original. There are several factors at play here.   To assess the quality of any image, view it at 100%. At this magnification, one image pixel is represented by one screen pixel. This is the only magnification that presents you with a true representation of the image. 100% is a reference point. With some experience, you will learn how a good quality image should look at 100%.   450 x 299 pixels, 85 quality, 40 kb   450 x 299 pixels, 85 quality, 141 kb ... View more

Open the CC desktop app, under Installed apps click the three dots next to Photoshop. Click Uninstall, and choose to keep preferences in the dialog that follows. Reinstalling is also done from the desktop app.   ... View more

Since you're using Lightroom, not Lightroom Classic, a moderator will move this thread to the Lightroom ecosystem forum. I don't use Lightroom, but it also uses parametric editing, and even 50 spots could slow your computer down. The only suggestion I have is to use a pixel editor to remove the spots. It doesn't have to be Photoshop, but it will probably give you the best results. ... View more

OneDrive is out of the question, it doesn't work well with LrC. It is possible with Dropbox if you take extreme care, and follow some rules strictly. Failure to follow these rules will lead to issues, and there's a high risk of catalog corruption. I use Dropbox myself with two desktop computers in different locations, and I am the only user. I get the impression that you are the only user of these laptops – if there are several users, I would not recommend using Dropbox – the probability of something going wrong will be too high. If you want to try this, I recommend starting with a test catalog with some unimportant images.   Here are the rules: In Dropbox Preferences > Sync, Save hard drive space automatically must be turned off. In Dropbox Preferences > Sync, Default sync state for new files must be set to Available Offline. The path to Dropbox must be the same on all computers, which also means that the drive letter must be the same. I use D:\Dropbox. If you have different drive letters, your photos will be missing, and you'll have to reconnect them. This will be easier if all the folders are inside a parent folder, and you will then only need to reconnect the parent folder. Before launching LrC on any of the computers, Dropbox must have finished syncing. Since version 14 it has also become necessary to pause syncing before launching LrC, it can be turned back on as soon as LrC is up and running. (failing to pause syncing can lead to the error message An error prevented Lightroom Classic from opening this catalog.) When you have finished an editing session on one computer, close LrC, and wait for Dropbox to finish syncing before you turn the computer off, or use LrC on a different computer. Never leave a computer running with LrC open while working in LrC on a different computer.   This works for me currently, but changes to Dropbox or LrC in the future could cause it to stop working. Keep an eye on the Dropbox sync settings, I have seen at least once that they have changed, probably after an update of the Dropbox application. And make sure to make frequent catalog backups. ... View more

Are you saying that you get the same color difference when you set the monitor profile to sRGB? If LrC was running when you did this, did you relaunch it? Applications pick up the the monitor profile from the OS on launch.   If enabling HDR in Library fixes the issue, something is wrong. Please go to Help > System info, click the Copy button and paste in a new reply.   Screenshots are not color managed and do not have an embedded profile. To create screenshots with  a correct representation of what you see on screen, open them in Photoshop, assign the monitor profile (Edit > Assign profile), then convert to sRGB (Edit > Convert to profile) and save. ... View more

Are you not able to open the image in Camera Raw? Where are you not seeing the camera as listed?   Below is a screenshot of an image converted to DNG in 2008, open in Camera Raw. The image opens fine, but it uses Process version 1, so edits are limited to what was possible in 2008. Updating the process version to version 6 will enable all editing, including masking. You do this in the Calibration panel. There is no need to convert the image to the latest DNG version.   ... View more

If it's not the GPU driver, it is most likely a defective or incompatible monitor profile. As troubleshooting, and as a possible temporary fix, try setting the monitor profile to sRGB. If you have a wide gamut monitor, use Adobe RGB.   With LrC closed, press the Windows key + R, type colorcpl in the box and press Enter. Add the sRGB (or Adobe RGB) profile, then set it as default. If this fixes the issue, you should calibrate your monitor with a hardware calibrator. This will also create and install a custom monitor profile that will be more accurate than sRGB or Adobe RGB.   ... View more

I don't do gaming, so I don't know how the Studio driver will perform with games. You'll just have to try it. A Google search for "studio driver for gaming" indicates that there might not be much difference. ... View more

If you have an Nvidia GPU, make sure to install the Studio driver (if available), not the Game ready driver. ... View more

In Preferences > General, make sure that Show import dialog when a memory card is detected is unchecked. Also make sure that Windows Autoplay is turned off.   ... View more