Photoshop

Hi,  On windows, when I start a brush stroke the stroke doesn't appear immediately. For example, if I hold still the pen on the screen it makes a mark only when I release the pen. If I make a stroke, it appears only when I'm few millimetres away from the starting point. That's very muddled but annoying, and it only happens in Photoshop. You can see it in the attached video.  I'm drawing on tablets and I have this issue with both of my tablets (Huion and Wacom), I'm on windows 11 and I tried on a Windows 10 too.  -> I'm up to date with Photoshop(23.1)      -> But it happens on previous version too. -> already tried to reset preferences -> already tried to disable windows ink (In table settings, and with the user setting files)  Any help ?

 Ways to remove the old version completely,while having the latest version of Photoshop.

Cuando acerco y alejo la imagen esta se multiplica ¿Alguien sabe la respuesta?   

Desde ayer cuando quiero guardar una foto en guardar para web, en mi carpeta no me aparece la foto. Pero luego cuando hago el proceso de exportarla aparece que está ahí y me pregunta si quiero reemplazarla, pero luego en mis archivos no está la foto. Probé a reinstalarlo, pero no ha servido, intente contactar con el soporte técnico y es imposible poder comunicarse con ellos. 

Can anybody help me achieve a colour match between Photoshop & Illustrator please? I have synced colour settings via Bridge, checked matching colour profiles in both programmes, checking both using CYMK and used the same colour hexcode. The colours are still miles apart. Please see attached screenshot for reference. Any help would be appreciated!  

I was editing an image in Lightroom, and needed to do some quick clean up. So I used the "import to Photoshop" feature in order to do this. I made one copy of the file, and then a new layer. I used various heal tools on the new layer. Nothing exotic on the healing, just removing dust spots. When done with the healing, I made a consolidated stamp layer (al+ctrl+shift+E). I then closed the document to import back into Lightroom. I sat and waited for the image to upload to the cloud so I could edit it. After 2 hours, it still hadn't uploaded. So I just left my computer on and went home. Several hours later, it finally updated. At home, I tried to finish the editing the image in Lightroom mobile, and then export. After pressing the export button, I again waited over 2 hours for the image to download so it could be exported. I simply gave up after 2.5 hours, and just made the changes in Lightroom.I am now looking at the file in my Lightroom library, and it is 1.15gb. This is massive. The fi

I have searched on this forum for months but no luck.  My photoshop and lightroom classic has been working fine on my laptop, but with my stationary computer it just flickers slightly in all menues and runs incredibly slow until it crashes. I have tried to re install, turn off processor and increase catche. All of these have helped slightly but the main problem remains. No issues with any other adobe programs.  Windows 11Lightroom Classic V.14.3  

I work as a product photographer and often receive product images from various suppliers. I’m looking to build an automated workflow using Photoshop actions that can do the following:Remove backgrounds and shadowsScale the product so that its longest side sits exactly 50 pixels away from the edge of the canvasHere's the workflow I have in mind:Use Image Processor (or Batch) in Photoshop to trigger an action that:Removes the background and shadowsResizes the product proportionally so that the longest side (width or height) is exactly 50px from the canvas edgeThen, automatically export the image using “Save for Web (Legacy)” with the following export settings:JPEG quality: 65%Image size: 1500 × 1500 px The incoming product images vary in size and aspect ratio, so the scaling step must dynamically detect the longest edge (width or height) and resize the product accordingly. Ideally, everything should be handled inside a single automated batch process with minimal manual steps.

In Photoshop 26 ver, the function of holding down Alt to use the color picker is still slow. Updating both the graphics driver and Wacom driver to the latest versions has slightly improved the speed, but it is still too slow to work comfortably.  It still stutters and lags, with random dots appearing during operation and the color picker not working properly. 

As per the topic - Is there a way to apply an adjustment layer to multiple 'linked' layers spread at various parts in the stack, rather than(adjacent) 'grouped' layers?

I am using  Photoshop CC Starting yesterday when I use the perpective crop tool and press enter the screen goes black. The regular crop tool works fine This occurs even if I don;t do any croppingThanks for the assistanceRoger Lieberman{Personal information removed by moderator}

"I'm using the Generative Fill feature in Photoshop, but I don't see the 'Harmonize' option. Could you please guide me on how to enable it or let me know why it might be missing?"

Hello Adobe Photoshop Team,I would like to suggest an improvement for Photoshop’s Layer Style functionality, specifically regarding Gradient Overlay applied to Groups.Current BehaviorWhen a Gradient Overlay is applied to a Group, Photoshop treats the Group as a single flattened layer. As a result, the gradient is rendered based on the Group’s bounding box (canvas coordinates), rather than each individual object inside the Group.ProblemThis makes it difficult to achieve consistent results when working with multiple objects. If I resize or move objects inside the Group, the Gradient Overlay does not adapt to each object’s boundaries. Designers who want object-based gradients across multiple layers need to duplicate Layer Styles manually for each layer, which is inefficient.Suggested ImprovementIntroduce an option for “Per-Object Gradient Overlay in Groups”.When enabled, the Gradient Overlay would be calculated relative to each object’s boundaries within the Group.This would allow designe

Hi! I just got my new printer, a canon pixma pro-100 and the first few test print were ok, but color where off, then it started to do some banding... like really important. I ran a cleaning head cycle, realign the head in case, and test print... so far everything is good. Go back to photoshop CC2017 and again... freaking banding... like useless. I can print with other program and i dont have banding but color are really off.So is there any way to configure photoshop so it print like it should without a problem.Thank you!and the sooner someone can help me the better, i'm in university and the printer was for my semester project.Joel

Dear all, I am trying to convert my CEP extension to plugin, and i have needs to access to an xml file located on a local server. In CEP extension it wasvar XML file = new FIle("/Volumes/Jobs/Some_folder/Test.jdf")XMLfile.open('r');and so on...Is it possible and how to access files from a local server using UXP? 

When I start to open my licensed copy of Photoshop CS6 I get an error message that Adobe Application Manager is missing or damaged.  The url the message says to download AAM does NOT WORK!  Where can I download Adobe Application Manager and how do I install the new file., etc?   I do not want the Creative Cloud version - Photoshop CS6 serves my purposes just fine.   But, I do need HELP in getting back into my licensed Photoshop CS6 software.  I use Windows 10.   Path to old Adobe Photoshop CS6 is:      Windows C:/Program Files/Adobe/Adobe Photoshop CS6 (64 bit) 

This is in Photoshop version 25.12.0, on Windows 11. When I use the eyedropper, the ring around the outside showing the color bing selected is wrong - it seems to have a yellow-green bias to it. But it's important to note that it does select the correct color - it's just that the preview ring is showing the wrong color. So this isn't the type of issue where I need to fuss with sampling all layers, etc - the tool is selecting colors just fine. See the screencap below where I'm selecting from a pure white image, and the ring is yellow-greenish. The color selected is pure white, though. Sorry - the eyedropper icon disappeared when I took a screencap, but it shows up correctly.  

When using the remove tool in 26.10.0, if the box "Create new layer" is unchecked, it still creates a "Remove tool edits" layer.

I'm not sure if this is a Windows issue or Microsoft. I just transferred everything to a new PC and cannot get any artwork/graphics saved as a PNG to show the thumbnails in file explorer. I have tried a few "fixes" found on the web but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone has had the same issue and found a fix that works. I uninstalled OneDrive, made sure the "always show icons, never thumbnails" is unchecked, cleared caches, etc. Nothing is working. Any help would be appreciated. 

In Ventura, there's been an ongoing problem with print settings not being reliably saved. (See https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-discussions/updated-macos-ventura-13-2-1-print-settings-not-saving/m-p/13584398) Has anyone tried this with the Sonoma beta? (Keeping my hopes up...) Thanks,Russell

HiIs there any way I can change a feature in the layers window? I keep hitting the unlink symbol, when all I need is activating that specific layer. So when I need a specific layer I end up unlinking the mask in stead, and then I continue working in the previous layer, that I intended to leave. It happens numerous times a day, to an extend that it frustrates me! Is it possible for me to change that feature, it could be linking and unlinking a mask on a layer by for example using command/option/ctrl whilst clicking on the unlink symbolCurrent Photoshop is CC2025 and system is Mac Sequoia 15.5, if that is relevantThank you so much!!

Im trying to open a file but i dosent open, photoshop drop me a IDAT: INVALID BLOCK TYPE window.any help, its a important file. 

Hello, I need help with automatic removal of highlights from eye photos in Photoshop. When i take the picture of the eye there are 4 key higlights that need to be removed: 1. flash highlight + specs around it2. regular light highlights3. eyelash reflections4. Sometimes eyelid reflections on top or bottom of the iris I have a way of fixing geometry of the iris like you see on the attached image (so that it is a perfect circle). I tried using content aware and generative infill, but the results are not the best. What seems to work best for now is spot healing brush tool plus using other parts of the image to fill in the parts where there are highlights. But this can be a bit tedious, so I need an automatic method, because I have many photos to edit. Any help will be greatly appreciated! 🙂