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If I’m using the Remove Tool without “remove after each stroke”, then I can make a selection/paint a lot of things and hit ✅ after that to remove all at once, which is really useful.However, If I’m doing that, painting/selecting everything I need to remove, and only then I realized I’m using the incorrect layer, or a layer mask for example… It doesn’t allow me to change layers while the tool is running.Please allow users to click on a different layer BEFORE hitting ✅ to commit changes
+1Just started experimenting with this feature and it would be so much more flexible with a transparent background option!
Cannot open PS current version message says "Catch in IPhotoshopApplication, exception encountered: require fed" (IphotoshopApplication is all one word)please help
Hello everyone, Is anyone experiencing Ps not running properly after updating their Macbook Pro to Tahoe 26.0? Every action takes 10 seconds to load, it's super laggy and literally unusable. I purged, I restarted, I reinstalled, I did it all - nothing. Any ideas? Is this a bug Adobe/Apple have to sned an update for? 16in 2019 i9, UHD 630, 32GB RAM, 500GBThanks, have a good day
In Photoshop’s main document view I use Z + left mouse drag (Scrubby Zoom) for fast, smooth, continuous zooming while retouching.However, inside Filter → Liquify, zooming with the same workflow is not smooth: it updates in jumps/steps, feels laggy, and is significantly slower and less comfortable. Please make zooming inside Liquify use the same continuous “scrubby zoom” behavior as the main canvas (including tablet pen mapped to LMB), so the zoom speed and smoothness are consistent across Photoshop. Steps to reproduce Open any image in Photoshop. Hold Z and drag with Left Mouse Button → zoom is smooth and continuous. Go to Filter → Liquify. Hold Z and drag with Left Mouse Button → zoom changes in noticeable steps/jumps. Expected resultLiquify supports the same smooth continuous zoom (Scrubby Zoom) as the main Photoshop canvas: fast, fluid, precise zooming. Actual resultLiquify zoom is stepped/jittery and slow; not smooth like the main canvas. Why this mattersLiquify is used for
I’d like to be able to order layer effects instead of: Adding an effect, then creating a group, then adding the layer styles you wanted to before but couldn’t, then repeat for any other effects that need to be top-level but are below other effects by default in the Blending options menu. Perhaps it’s technically difficult to program, but I’d like to be able to apply a color overlay above an inner-shadow effect, instead of adding an inner-shadow, creating a new group, then applying the color overlay. Also, like drop shadows, there should be an option to create multiple outer glow effects. It’s annoying to have to convert all my shadows to glows and then back again when I want shadows for a different layer.
Make it so you can cut out pices with out them contting
I want to change the color of a color in a delimited area of my image. if I choose Color Range and select a color, it selects that color throughout the image. I only want to affect the color in a specific area of the image. I don’t want to select the area using the Lasso Tool since this will create a sharp boundary for the area that is affected. Rather, I want to use the Brush Tool so the section I am targeting is not sharply delineated. How can I use the Brush Tool to apply the desired edit? Thank you.
In the latest version of Photoshop, the Swatches panel has a much larger minimum height and can no longer be reduced as compactly as before.This limits workspace flexibility and forces the panel to occupy unnecessary vertical space, especially when working with multiple stacked panels.
Hello everyone,I’m working on a small restoration project involving 11 Edo-period Japanese woodblock prints (ukiyo-e) - see image attached.My goal is not to modernize or “beautify” the images, but to reduce age-related degradation while preserving the historical and illustrative character of the prints.Specifically, I’m trying to address: Yellowing / brownish paper tone caused by aging Foxing, stains, uneven discoloration Loss of contrast due to paper aging Minor texture noise from scanning or paper wear What I do want: Cleaner paper tone (closer to original washi/off-white) More legible colors and linework Preservation of flat color areas, woodblock texture, and period feel What I do not want: Over-smoothing Painterly or “AI-like” results Loss of line sharpness Anything that makes the print look digitally repainted or contemporary I’m working in Photoshop, with high-resolution scans.I’m finding it difficult to remove aging artifacts without flattening or sterilizing th
hi good evening I wanted to ask since I'm not an expert in the sector, if adobephotoshop and the apps it includes can help me with my problem, practically I have a video in which there are 2 emojis covering the face and I would like to delete them how can I do? since the app acts only on images, would it also work by taking a screenshot of the video?
Hello. Another annoyance- TOOL TIPS pop up when hovering over and block every tool. Tried googling it and got several suggestions, but still can't disable it.>Preferences: (first of all, there is no “Preferences” - it’s “Settings”) uncheck: Tooltips- OK >Disable “Rich Tooltips”- Can’t find that! >Preferences: enable “Quiet Mode”- can’t locate that, even with search. Oh No! can’t turn off this number thing. Lost 30 minutes of my work time and life over this. Are you kidding me with these updates? Now Adobe is asking for my administrator’s password?
I’m using Photoshop 27.3. I can’t guarantee this happen since this version specifically, but the issue is pretty recent. I’m not even sure it could be considered a “bug”, so I prefer to ask here first. I had a script that I used to run that splits layers into several layers and export them one by one. Until now I never encountered any issue with it. Yesterday I used it again, and figured out the saved images were far brighter than they should be (like almost 30% brighter). I tried to save them manually with different export options to figure out what the issue was, and it seems to be related to the “convert to sRGB” option. This option seems to have been enabled by default now, and it significantly alter the image’s colors when used. I can uncheck the option when I try to export a file, also unchecked it in the preferences, but it persists when I use “Save for web ...” and there seems to be no way to prevent it. It is pretty inconvenient, as the “Save for web” feature allowed me to hav
Almost every single time I go to print a file, whenever I click the Print Settings button, these errors pop up:The only way to solve this issue has been to completely exit out of the program and restart it. I don’t know why it’s talking about smart objects or even exporting something to the clipboard. I just need to change my print settings to change the paper type/size, make sure Photoshop, not the printer, is controlling the colors, etc. Otherwise everything prints out wrong.
I can't believe it! I settle down to start work and go to adjust Levels on a photo, and Properties pops up, and the right and left tool columns disappear. Go to the Windows drop-down, and the options for resetting the Workspace are ghosted out. Google it> hit Tab and the little tool thing on the left turns on and off- not my setup! What gives? These little automatic "Happenings" are frustrating and distracting. Is there a way to go back to the old, completely manual setup? And I can't believe the cost increased 14% per month. Who's paying me for the half hour I lost this morning?I hope I get an answer. It can’t be that hard.
For the last few months, I have been having issues with Photoshop and Vector Smart Objects – noticably ones that have live text.When I place text as a smart object into PS from Illustrator, it appears fine. If I then open the smart object in illustrator and edit and save, the image looks completely different in PS, compared what it actually does in Illustrator. It mainly offsets the text or crops it. There is no consistent effect, it differs each time.It only seems to be an issue with live text. If I outline that text, it will correct itself and look how it should.I believe the issue is more with illustrator, and I have had the issue using creative cloud 2025 and 2026.Has anyone else had similar issues and found a way around it? ThanksDan
Hello everyone,I am developing an Adobe extension where a CEP Panel acts as the UI for a C++ Native Filter/Plugin (e.g., in Photoshop or After Effects). I am currently seeking the best practice for direct communication between these two components.The Goal: I need the CEP panel to send a specific command/data to the C++ filter when a user action occurs.Example Scenario:In the CEP Panel UI, the user selects an option, e.g., "Plan A".The user clicks a "START" button on the CEP Panel.Upon clicking "START", the CEP extension should notify the C++ filter to:Receive the parameter "Plan A".Initiate a data download from a local server (e.g., 127.0.0.1:8000) using the received parameter.Current Approach (The Issue): Currently, I am only able to achieve communication by using a temporary intermediary file (e.g., the CEP panel writes the command to a JSON file, and the C++ plugin polls/reads this file). This method is inefficient and inelegant.The Question: What is the recommended and most perfor
In the 26.11 release, the Tone Curve UI has become a mess. Inside the curve graph, there is an unnecessary gradient background that professionals don’t need, and there is no option to turn it off. More critically, in CMYK mode the Yellow and Black curves are almost completely invisible, yet this was released publicly. This really needs to be fixed. Yellow channel curve in CMYK mode. Black channel curve in CMYK mode (drawn in white, completely invisible)
I am trying to use the photomask layer to mask the render layer (top) so that layer 0 shows.I can’t figure it out. Thanks for any help.
Two Ps files are in Windows Explorer, file sizes are 5.62 MB & 99.4MB respectively. What is reason larger file with 99.4 MB shows the content but smaller file does not show?
I've recently updated my computer from Win10 to Win11. Also updated all the apps through creative cloud. I'm running a quick computer however only Photoshops takes nearly 3-4mins to open. After clicking on the icon, I've checked in the task manager, it shows in "background processes" first, then after a while opens. The splash screen doesn’t appear either. It only seems to be Photoshop too, other programmes such as InDesign and After effects opens fine. When Photoshop eventully opens and you click on a psd. file to open, it still takes a while. I know I can drag and drop in the window (this works fine). I've tried to uninstall and reinstall but get the same issue. Also tried an older verison. Anyone else have this problem? PC: Intel(R) Xeon(R) Gold 6248R CPU @ 3.00GHz 2.99 GHz (2 processors)256 GB RTX A6000
Remove tool = "Required components are being downloaded. Check back later to use the feature once the download is complete". Imac 24, chip apple m4, macOS sequoia 15.5, ps 26.6.1. I have read and tried the posts I find on here and none of them work. The 3 dot on creative cloud desktop app does not show the add ons per the instructions I am seeing. Checking back later is not happening and I can't use the remove tool at all. What am I missing?
Hi, wondering if anyone else are experiencing problems with this? Trying to print from LR (and photoshop), but experiencing two problems: paper orientation keeps getting wrong (even if it looks correct in print preview). Problem has lasted for about 6 months. When using ColourSync (asking LR or Photoshop to manage colours) - several options in printsettings (e.g. colour, print preview) are greyed out. Pops back when setting printer to manage colours. Problem startet (i think) after updating to Taho 26.2 recently.Using a Macbook pro, Epson SC P900 (updated firmware and software twice this week and Epson basically gave up on solving this on their end today blaming Adobe and/or Apple, and i cant even imagine how trying to get those people on the phone to help would be…..).
Hi, I am using an Epson SC P6000 straight from Lr Classic 14.1.1. Everything prints with all formats fine except when I put in a 24 in. roll. It always prints the wrong way no matter how I configure the page setup. I have the tried triocking the system by sending everything exactly the same except that I rotate the image 90 deg.Same result. I not sure if it is a bug, or something wrongly set. Any ideas how to solve this? thanks
Not sure what the problem is. I select Color Lookup and the 3DLUTS option is greyed out. Please help!
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