Photoshop

looking for a working offline installer for Photoshop 2023, preferably version 24.0 to 24.5, if any

I created a Curves Adjustment Layer (Curves 1) to lighten a layer (Layer 0 copy).  Part of the Layer is blown out and I want to remove the adjustment for that area (the green panel where the error message is in the screenshot).  When I try to erase on Curves 1 I get the message "could not use the eraser because the content of the layer is not directly editable."  I'm pretty sure I have used the eraser to remove an adjustment from an Adjustment Layer.  Am I wrong?   There is an upper layer (6312-Pano copy) but I erased the overlapping content in that area.  The only active layers are Layer 0 copy and Curves 1.  Why can't I erase on the adjustment layer to remove the adjustment for this area?    

Dear Team,I am getting this error after selecting the partners upscale in Photoshop"Your system administrator isn't allowing access to this feature right now. Please contact them for more information." 

I have Windows 11. It works fine in Corel Painter and Rebelle 8. Whats up with this? I have the latest Wacom driver which I just reinstalled. Always keep up with the latest Windows and Adobe app updates. 

A nice feature of photoshop is the ability to alt-click the eye on a given layer so that all other layers are hidden.  Alt-click again, and they are again revealed.  I have a file in which that feature stopped working.  I can take any layer or subset of layers, duplicate them into a new document, and the feature will work perfectly with those layers in that new document.  I tried resetting preferences, but that didn't fix the problem.  If I alt-click the eye on any layer in that file (but only in that file) the action produces no result.  Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this?

This has been an ongoing issue and I've dealt with it long enough to say something. Whenever I print in Photoshop, because my printer prints darker no matter what I do and never true to my screen, I have to use the Print Settings dialog box to ensure the correct paper is selected, that Photoshop manages the colors, and that the colors are coming from Adobe and not the printer. At least 95% of the time, whenever I click the Print Settings button to open the dialog box, I get some irritating error like this (usually two or three).  The dialog box never pops up when this happens. The only way I've been able to fix this is to completely restart the program. What is causing this and how do I get rid of it? I've disabled and enabled the clipboard export preference, copied something else to "clear" it, etc. Nothing works. It's very irritating.

I work in Photoshop a lot and have been dealing with this issue for a while. I’ve found workarounds, but it’s gotten to the point where I can’t ignore it anymore.When I try to save PSD or PSB files, it struggles hard. Sometimes it takes like 20–30 mins to save a file. I understand they’re large files, but I don’t remember it ever taking this long. A lot of the time it fails entirely and gives me one of these two errors:1.) Error 0x8007045D: The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.2.) Could not save “DSC000” because of a disk error.A couple months ago, I found a workaround by saving to the desktop first and then moving it to the external SSD, but that has stopped working.I used to not have many issues with JPGs, but now those are starting to be a problem too. I’m having trouble saving them directly to the SSD from Photoshop. The workaround still works for JPGs, but not for PSD/PSB files.SSD: Samsung T7 Shield – 1TB capacity, ~500GB freeNo issues saving other fi

Hello everyone — I’m a photographer/retoucher seeking real-world advice.Current setup (slow for AI tools):MacBook Pro 13" (2019) — 2.8 GHz Quad-Core i7, 16GB RAM. with external 2TB SSDI use Photoshop, Bridge and occasionally Capture One. Lately I’ve noticed generative AI tools and content-aware/remove operations are quite slow.Considering two upgrade options:A — M5 (14") — $1,799M5 (10-core CPU / 10-core GPU / 16-core Neural Engine)16GB unified memory1TB SSDB — M4 Pro (14") — $2,199M4 Pro (12-core CPU / 16-core GPU / 16-core Neural Engine)24GB unified memory1TB SSDMy typical work: high-resolution architectural and product retouching, large layered PSDs, and increasing use of generative AI (in-app remove/replace, background fills, upscaling). I’m most concerned about responsiveness when using AI features and large files.Questions:For heavy Photoshop + generative AI workflows, which would you pick and why?Files usually range 200MB-800MGDoes the extra GPU cores in the M4 Pro or the extra

I pay monthly for PS for Ipad. Neither my clone tool nor my magic wand selector work. Both take me to an offer to buy  the ap I am already paying for. I even tried saying yes to the offer and got a nessage that I already have the ap, which i knew , but tied it anyway. My Ipad works fine, Frescoo works.  The brushes work. Any ideas? 

Hello,I’m opening this thread to request access to Photoshop and Illustrator 2023.I used the 2023 versions on my notebook for a long time and they were the most stable for my workflow. Recently, I had to format my computer, and when I tried to reinstall Adobe apps through Creative Cloud, I noticed that the only available options were v26.0 and newer, or a much older version (v22).Unfortunately, the 2023 versions are no longer listed, even though that’s the version I was actively using before formatting my machine.I contacted Adobe Support, but the only solution offered was version 2025, which is heavily AI-based. That does not solve my problem. I’m not against AI in general, but it’s not suitable for my workflow. It makes the software heavier, more distracting, and frankly tiring to use. Not every professional needs AI integrated into every click.I know it’s possible to provide older versions because years ago Adobe Support gave me a direct download link tied to my Creative Cloud accou

So I just hopped on Photoshop for some generative fill work, and it popped up with the notice about credit usage. Am I to assume here that Photoshop just threw in a credit system for an already monthly subscribed product, which isn't cheap to begin with and on top of that, their AI tools are drastically weaker (I still thought they were in BETA tbh) than most out there - in terms of paid ones.  Disappointing to say the least.  

In older versions of Photoshop, the "F" key used to cycle through the three different Screen Modes. In the newer versions, it doesn't work. Is there a way to bring it back? I tried to assign just the F key in Keyboard Shortcuts, but it won't allow it. It says that a modifier key must be used in conjunction with a letter. in older versions, it was just the F key.

I have recently started scanning a large quanitity of photos from a local fire department and I am trying to figure out the best way to organize them digitally as well as eventually be able to do some edits to them. Currently I have a folder naming structure that I came up with that while helpful for tracking what I have scanned, is probably not the most efficent way long term to locate images if I need them in the future. I am trying to decide whether Bridge or Lightroom is going to be the better choice for this. I have read different things explaining how each program works but am looking for advice from someone who has experience with the programs, as I have not used either before. I do currently have Photoshop Elements as my primary editing software. I am leaning towards lightroom since I am hoping to be able to use it to essentially sort the same image into multiple categories such as by event or subject of the photo. I also like the ability to add labels, as this seems like

i wonder is there any smart save feature, that would enable me at the click of a buttonto save the file as a JPG and and a PSD at the same time, in the same folder with matching names? this would save so much hassle, and make file organising much easier.i find a lot of my time is wasted saving the psd, then clicking "save a copy"  and having to look for the folder, and try and remember the exact name. thanks in advance

I use various Canon EOS cameras ranging from my trusty 5D mk3, an M6 mk2 and a recently purchased R5 mk2. I always shoot in RAW (well at least 99.99999% of the time) and the RAW files come with the .cr2 and .cr3 extensions. Once I've looked at all of the images using the Canon Digital Phot Professional sofware and culled/deleted unwanted images I would then normally use DNG converter and then delete the original .cr2 and .cr3 files. When I've been shooting single shots I also utilise the renaming function within DNG converter and they would be changed from something like IMG4085.cr3, IMG4086.cr3, IMG4087.cr3 etc to more meaningful file names like R52_271225-001, R52_271225-002, R52_271225-003 and so on denoting I used a Canon R5 mk2 (R52), they were shot on the 27th December 2025 (271225) and followed by a sequence number -001, -002, -003 etc. I use 5D3 for the 5D mk3 and M62 for the M6 mk2.  The issue arises when I shoot bracketed images of a subject or landscape t

Photoshop crashes every time I try to open a file. It is the first time this has happen in over 20 years of using the software. It appeared to align with when I installed Windows 11. I have tried reinstalling Windows and reinstalling Photoshop, and the issue persists. So I can effectively not use Photoshop right now, and have not been able to for several days. I need Photoshop for my work, and if this cannot be addressed, I will have to cancel my subscription and look for alternatives to Adobe, of which there are now many. Please assist.

Hi everyoneI want a version that runs smoothly on my laptop hp g7 255 notebook pc, without lag, freezing, errors, or crashes.My laptop specifications:- OS: Windows 10 22H2- CPU: Ryzen 5 3500u- RAM: 12gb- GPU: Vega 8- Storage: SSD m.2I’m not necessarily looking for the latest version — stability and smooth performance are more important to me.Based on my system, which Photoshop version do you recommend?My system is not very powerful, so I’m open to using an older stable version if that works better.I plan to use Photoshop for creating thumbnails, text overlays, and graphic elements for YouTube Shorts.

I am using version 27.2 of Photoshop.  When I use the remove tool I receive an error: Could not complete your request because of a program error. I have tried all of the troubleshooting steps out there.  I have called support and they walked me through all troubleshooting steps.  Still receive the error. If I roll back to version 26.11.2, the remove tool works fine.

Whenever I do the "2 finger pan" on my trackpad, the canvas jumps/stutters. I've tried everything to fix it - I'll post a summary I made with everything I've tried and hopefully it'll help someone else, but any other ideas would be appreciated as it drives me mad. It started out of nowhere. I'm on a Macbook Pro M4 (Tahoe 26.1) with the latest version of Photoshop. All my other apps like Illustrator and InDesign are buttery smooth when I pan the same way. The only way I'm able to work in PS at the moment is by using a mouse and clicking and dragging while holding the spacebar - only then is it smooth. Steps Already AttemptedPhotoshop VersionsUninstalled and reinstalled Photoshop.Tried newer versions.Tried older versions (including 27.1 and earlier 25.x / 26.x).Problem persists across all versions.Photoshop Settings & PreferencesDisabled/Re-enabled GPU acceleration.Toggled Enable Native GPU compositing.Reset all Photoshop preferences using Cmd + Option + Shift on

Hi.After the update to PS 27.2.0 it is impossible to save whatever I am doing. It just shuts down immediately. I have updated my graphic card driver, removed any "extras" from usb ports etc, uninstalled and re-installed PS and have a Windows version which is newer then 1903. I have also checked the Enable Legacy in the Preferences.I've tried the ctr+alt+shift when starting PS, but just the same.When doing alt+ctrl+shift+e this happens:And the masks, which was white, turns black.Previous to this, when I used masks, and trying to save, I got all my masks and layers to be messed up. Enclosed is a print screen of layers which make no sense at allThis has made me a major setback on my concert photography as I get absolutely nowhere at the moment.I would appreciate any feedback on this one. Have a good one.

Why is photoshop not finding a background to remove?

I was assuming that the layers array always contains all art layers and all layer sets (groups) we see in photoshop. Similarly, layerSets contains all layer sets. However, I found a case where this does not occur. More specifically, some groups are not included in the layers and layerSets arrays. I know this because I'm iterating through layer.layers or layer.layerSets in a for loop and these groups never show up. When I make these problematic groups visible in photoshop or I select them, I don't see the usual bounding box we see for other layers/groups, which I think shows up when there are visible pixels. I suspect this is related to the issue. At the same time, in my script, at some point, I also try to remove these groups and they actually show up and they are removed. So, maybe the order of the operations or something else is also affecting this. Just to be clear, I see the groups and their layers in photoshop. Do you know what could actually be causi

Images created in photoshop (26) on an imac with a hardware calibrated monitor/display (x-rite & calibrite), & with sRGB color space embedded, appear darker when viewed in a browser (safari or chrome). Why? I prepare the images and either upload them, or first create a pdf in photoshop. When I view the images via a url on Safari or Chrome the images consistently appear darker.  Does it mean my display luminance/brightness is set too high during calibration . Or that browsers are not reading the sRGB embedded color setting correctly . I f the file isn't already in sRGB I convert it to. should i be soft proofing these images. If so, with what profile - the monitor? What is happening ? More importantly, what can I do do to correct this? Any insight appreciated. 

 Attempting to produce a halftone for a positive transfer film in PS. Image produced has irregular dots or irregular space between dots. Which is it and how to get perfect dots? End goal is to be silkscreened on glass. Thank YouJanice

I have a photo where I see a strobe light and stand in the  mirror. Great time to test my chops with content aware!  So did lasso, edit fill content aware, nothing happened. Tried twice nothing. zero. Gave up with that. So did a right click and did lasso, generative fill. That got rid of the stand, but cords and cables remained, so 2 more rounds, better, but bright round flash still there, and get annoying.  I just ignorged it , figuring if rasterize, (honetly did not even want a smart object), pity they cannot do this without smart object, (can it be done without smart object?),  I'd be charged for AI credits sor something. Left the bright light, still nice, to rid, but cannot even clone it out myself. Did ok to rasterize, But alas, nothing works.  clone, nothing after rasterizing functioins like just locked with one layer, so stuck